Will accommodate the powerglide attached? How did you bolt it to the jack?
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So- the bolts securing the transvair adaptor to the PG sheared off at a stop lite. This was my first test drive after a fire caused by a split in a metal(!) fuel line that melted all my wiring and destroyed my alternator. Question- the sheared bolts remain in the yolk on the drivers side of the dif. Looks like about a 1/4 bolt that secures the yoke to the dif. Clark’s sells yokes, not too exp
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100% success! Had wires on pigtail backwards. Light comes on with key turn on, goes out when engine starts, alternator charging at 14.9 right now . Thanks everyone!
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Thank you Al and Craig. I’ll update as soon as I can get out to the garage
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I think I have terminals 1 and 2 wired backwards
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Lots of information here. I guess the best question for me to ask is this: Can someone put up a wiring diagram of how this setup should look with an internally regulated alternator, and no external voltage regulator? This is how mine is wired: Pigtail has 2 wires: Terminal 1: to battery via post on the back of the alternator Terminal 2: directly to idiot light on the dash Grou
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

acardon Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- I don’t have an external regulator. > An 85 Buick alternator is internally regulated. You have to bypass the regulator. > The resistor isn't necessary, it's there for a backup excitor if the bulb burns out. >
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

Installed a resistor internally in my alternator. Still charges well at 13.5 volts, but now no “Gen” light at all. Bulb good, connections good. Charging correctly. Too strong a resistor?
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Answering my own question: After wrapping the whole delcotron adaptor in towels, I put it in the vise and used a large flat head screwdriver to pry it out in one long pull. Popped out without damaging the bore of the valve housing. Now, I’ll just buy a new one and install it as mentioned above. I don’t think the used one is salvageable.
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Thanks for the information. I just wanted to make sure oil would be getting to the engine without the bypass. I definitely want one. I now know where to get a new one, how to install it. If anyone can walk me thru removing one without destroying it, so to be reused, I’d appreciate that .
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Ok thank you!
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Follow on question would be: How do you install it?
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Need the oil filter bypass. Clark’s is closed right now
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hmmm. “Part needed” is a good idea. What does plugging the hole with a coin do? Continuous flow thru the filter?
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Clark’s is closed for now. Am I allowed to run my engine with no oil filter bypass valve?
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Thanks for the reply- the life goes out if I unplug it from the Gen. as to the ground, I’ll have to take the instrument cluster out- that’s in the “not fun” category on my vw. Not able to wire that resistor in line rather than parallel?
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Corvair motor in my vw bus. Motor has an alternator from an 85 Buick (half of the alternator shell is original corvair) Gen lite “on”, engine start. Alternator charging the battery at around 13.5 +/- .5 or so. Working as it should. Dash light not going out though. Anyone know why?
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I’m about to fill my diff. Clark’s catalog reads 3 quarts to fill if empty... I drained (by suction) what little fluid there was. However, three quarts would put it well over the the diff dipstick tube hole, prob making the dif 3/5s full. This seems like a lot.... Powerglide trans.....
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No- my mistake. That’s not what I meant, I misspoke. It must be the differential fill tube, is there one?
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Yeah, I was furiously trying to edit before a response noted my mistake, sorry
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American Mel Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > PICTURES PLEASE ! ! ! > My PG is filled through the dipstick tube. > What is this separate "Fill Tube" you are speaking of Same side as the dipstick tube, just forward of the axle flange, just aft of one of the bell housing bolts. Yours prob has a screw cap on it like mine. If you have an ear
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I have a dipstick tube. The fill tube is gone and there is a screw cap in its place. So the pg was sealed, just the fill tube is removed. I actually have it, it just came as a part with the tranny, not installed. American Mel Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > mattlockwood Wrote: > ------------------------------------------------------- > &g
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Thanks for all the good info. It’s a totally unknown PG to me. What fluid Ive seen leak out, (out of shifter cable hole when I was transporting/moving it around and my little hole cover fell off) is red and clean and smells good, not burnt. Pan and rear end of the trans look like they’ve been recently resealed. Not much fluid in it tho. Nothing on the dipstick and when I unscrew the fill
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Wow- that really clears it up. Thanks for taking those pictures. Easy to see what the shop manual is talking about now. Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > "May" be used when replacing the shift cable or lever. As it turns out, the adjustment can be made by eye if you know what to look for - it's not that critical. > > The first pict
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Here’s how I understand the PG shift cable installation process: 1) Shifter to Drive 2) TV lever full CCW 3) install cable Problem for me is: in order for the cable to go all the way in, I have to move TV lever CW, or rather just let it move CW on its own as the cable goes in. Is it supposed to move? After it’s screwed in, shifting gears does move the TV. Second question: with the tra
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

vairmech Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you are going to put a remote filter on I say it depends on what filter you are going to use. Some filters have an internal bypass feature and what you would want to do is NOT just remove the bypass but you want to actually plug it. I have posted a picture before telling that my race car was worth a plug nickle. &g
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steve c goodman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I recall TRANSVAIR offered a 'bulge' fiberglass piece that fit the engine lid on the Type 2 for clearance of the stock oil filter. Idea was cut a hole in lid and attach the cover and paint to match. Just an idea instead of doing a bunch of plumbing etc. Thanks Steve- thought long and hard about it
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Thanks again. Cranking with the plugs out and a gauge is a great suggestion.
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Ok good. Can I leave the bypass valve and spring in place?
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If I cut off the oil filter housing as one does for a remote oil filter setup, then removed the oil bypass valve and spring... and then tapped and plugged the galleys that lead to the filter, would I have good oil flow but no filter, or would I have a melted engine/anchor. Can I skip the step of removing the bypass valve, since it opens at 10 psi? Asking because until I’ve installed the remot
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