Teflon is not really made for fuel. I use the yellow tape that's made for natural gas and propane. Works great if wrapped well on the male threads. Be sure to pay attention to the direction your tape runs or it will just bunch up on the outside of the fitting.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

I just got two red LED bulbs to replace the 1157's in the tail/stop lights. They are quite bright now. If that's what your looking for I got mine on Amazon.
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I had this problem recently. After chasing my tail for a while, I gave up and looked down each carb while running. I had loose fuel dripping down the throats of two. I corrected a mounting issue with the venturi cluster on one and raised the float level on both by 1/8". Set the timing to 14 degrees BTDC, checked the dwell and voila it runs perfectly now.
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Well, I am running all four together as primaries. All four open together. I am running 52's but I plan to go up to 54's as it runs best at WOT. I figure it can take more fuel, and why not! I have a 4-speed.
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Unisync the carbs, adjust mixing screws. Just sitting can change the carbs setup. New engine is drawing different vacuum than the old one. Maybe valve adjustment but that seems more like a problem that would have more symptoms. experts will tell us both. I found a good starting and idle with good power at 14 degrees BTDC. Make sure dwell is good too.
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Great work Keith. The enjoyment of getting something right on a 55 year old car is great. You said your running four primary carbs but do you want to run them in unison? Roger Parent now makes a linkage setup to do that. I just put it on my LM 140 engine and I am very happy with it. You can adjust each carb. separately and get them Unisync'd easily. Worth the money.
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Does anyone know how to reach him? The emails in that old post are not working. I find the right thing and can't buy it!!! X( Corvair's. :X
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Guys, Hack is a modern term and described by Bill in his post. It is used as described by people under 30. I know we don't have any but we should still accept the concept and try to post some things. Maybe there will be a new one we can use. I get those almost daily in this forum. People share what worked, and didn't, on projects. Good stuff. At the moment, I don't have one to share that's my
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Back in 73 I got a spoiler that I recall was for a Camaro. My recall sucks though and I cannot find it now. I had to cut it in the center to make it shorter but other than that, it fit great. I had a curve to it that came out at the bottom about 1.5". It had nice smooth curves at the ends as well that mated with the body perfectly. I loved the look of it and it work a little like a splitter. I ju
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Did you install the FR box yourself? The early steering shafts had to be cut and machined to fit the FR coupler. I am not sure about your year. Check any couplers in the system. There may be a problem there. I think that the coupler is on the steering box and then the shaft from the wheel connects to that. if the coupler is the type with a round "double D" for the steering shaft, it can do wha
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Keith, I had this exact problem on my car. 4 one-barrels and electric pump. I do not have a regulator but the pump is supposed to be factory set at 4 PSI. I went all over trying to stop one carb from dripping. My last attempt was to replace the cluster. While I had the carb on the bench, I decided to run the cluster screws down without any gasket. I found that the screws did not hold it tight. Th
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Jim, to update my issues from another thread on a dripping cluster. I removed the cluster (yet again) and checked that the cluster itself would get tight. I did that by tightening it without any gasket. To my surprise, the screws did not hold it tight. I took it apart and noticed that the screw threads had a lot of gunk part way down. I replaced them and the cluster got very tight. I put it back
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Why not just replace them with Gross valves? One size and close/open more positively.
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It's a home-made Thing!
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I have a lot of extra parts for a LM car. I switched from drum brakes to disc so I have all four drums, backing plates with cylinders, shoes and hardware. I know it's heavy to ship but the drums were turned and within spec. when I changed them last year. Hardly any miles on them. I also have a LOT of parts from my 66, Monza that will not get used as it is being built as a race car. Besides tha
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You can start on the middle setting and then adjust after some test & tune runs. Are you lowering the car? Cutting front or rear springs?
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I hope their website does not have that many ads and pop-ups. I could not get through it because every time I tried to scroll, it opened another ad. Clark's website is not so complex, I like that more. Find the part, buy the part.
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SCCA allows conversion to disc if it is a safety issue. I found that there are simply no shoe linings available that will not glaze after any hard braking. That makes it unsafe. You might check into this with your local club. Any organic and even the non asbestos linings still available will glaze. There used to be good metallic linings but they are all gone now.
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As stated, bad HB. You can check that by marking it with a white paint pen as shown by Matt. Run the engine and see if it moves when the light is on it. If the inside stays put and the outside moves, you have a bad HM that needs to be replaced. You could static time it and run it for a while but the HB can blow and fall apart. Your wife will not be happy when that happens and gets stranded. I hav
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One wonders if they plan to buy Clark's when the owners retire. Easy way into the business.
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Correct. The spring on the AP arm is the same for all years. It's the spring in the hole that's different.
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140 Secondary return springs are shorter but stronger than the primary return springs. The secondary's on a typical 140 don't have their own method for returning to closed throttle position so the accelerator return springs help them close. I have a Roger Parent non-progressive) linkage on my 140 but still like the return action of the stronger springs.
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I run Pirelli P-Zero tires. R rating and very sticky. They are the highest performance tire Pirelli sells that are also DOT legal. I had the rear end slip a lot when I overpowered a corner. I probably need to get used to the car at speeds on the edge. Next weekend.
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Ran on the track yesterday. The car oversteered and understeered at speed. I will work on the tire pressures using a PSI differential. I also need to sort this car out for the track. The handling was not great overall. Sucks being passed by everything. It was a totally modern group of cars though. My little 140 was underpowered by half. Still, I should have been able to keep up in the turns.
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Is the differential really 10 PSI? That seems extreme. Mine are all set to 30 PSI (cold). I can try the talcum method but wonder about the big differential.
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I'll have to make that mod after the race weekend. I hope the engine compartment doesn't get oiled badly.
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This photo may help to explain my situation. There is no place large enough on the K&N filters to attach a hose from the blow-by tube. Should I connect it to the cross over? That seem counter to having the orifice hose attached there.
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steve c goodman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Bob you "T" from the end of the tube to both small > air filter units. Just cut the PCV vent tub to > length or shorten and weld the vent tube. There > have been lots of pics here showing nice plumbing. Steve, My individual air cleaners do not have anywhere to plumb the vent line to. They are at
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I have the entire PCV (?) tube present. I plumbed the small orfice nipple to the balance tube as normal. I just don't know exactly what to do with the end of the large tube. Not quite clear in the photos if it covers my issue/question.
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Can I use Cunifer lines for fuel? Much easier to work with than steel if they are suitable. Also, who knows the source for a small air filter for the top of the crankcase vent tube? I am running single K&N filters on the carbs and I hoped to keep the PCV tube functional. At the moment, it just has a cap on it.
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