My 65, 140 was having the same issue. It does not have any lower shrouds so it runs cold, particularly on startup. I cleaned all the carb passages and made sure all were clear. I did a sync of the primaries and then set the secondary's to open at exactly the same time. That got it running smoothly but at high idle. I set the dwell (points gap) and then set the timing to 14 BTDC. That really made
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Thanks to all. I will print this and go back to the garage. FYI, it is an aftermarket coil with stock points distributor. I'll post after I get to check it all. Probably Saturday as I have dialysis Friday.
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I replaced the coil on my 65, 140 engine. I bought one that says right on it, needs 12V. The car does not appear to have an external resistor so it may have a resistor wire in the loom. I connected the coil and the engine runs OK but then I tested the voltage with the key in the run position to the + side and to ground. It only reads 4.7V DC. That seems low. Anyone have required voltages and the
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It is too easy to damage the input shaft or the clutch if you try to pull just half the power-pack. Drop it all as a unit and then do your work on the floor or a rolling cart (or leave it on the jack). Get help unless you have an overhead crane to support the trans/diff when you separate it from the engine. It's that bending that does the damage. Replace the T/O bearing, pilot bearing and the ent
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Thanks Dave. I was thinking more a throttle body setup X 6. Injected. I can dream can't I!
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If you go that far and cut off the plenum logs, why not go to three throttle intakes?
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I installed the electric pump next to the tank. Be sure it doesn't hang down where it could be hit by road obstacles. I plugged it into an ignition actuated power circuit on the fuse block but I like the idea of a tach signaled power circuit so it only runs when the engine does. Maybe someone else can explain that to both of us. Also, install a filter at the rear rubber line, inside the DS rear w
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I changed the accel. pump return springs on the secondary's to be sure they were in good condition. Removed and cleaned the venturi clusters on two. Removed heavy return springs from the secondary's. Installed Clarks return springs on the secondary's, the small version that go on the throttle shaft. Adjusted each carb's mixture. individually. Unisynd all four. I have yet to get much road time but
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All situations solved. Throttles work to WOT with pedal down. All return to closed. Mixture may still be off, I need more seat time to know. Thanks to all who offered assistance.
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The second tool I got works good. Tubing is easy to flare and curve.
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Is the trailer for sale? Package deal?
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52 jets in all four. Mixture is now out 3 turns. I ran out of time today so I was happy to get it running well enough to pull into the garage. Its much better now with a lot more power. I still think the secondary's are not opening fully but I need a second person to verify. My wife is too short to get the pedal all the way down hard. The engine has not been rebuilt so it is tired with one cylind
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Roger that. I'll do that Saturday. Dialysis tomorrow so not much else gets done.
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I took the top off the secondary (PS) and pulled the venture cluster out. I blew everything out and reassembled. No more leaks. Runs somewhat smooth but still doesn't want to idle below 1,500. Fluctuation’s in idle are gone. Ran out of time for today. I'll pick it up Saturday. One can dream.
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Replaced the accelerator pump return springs in the (primary's) acting as secondary's. Now I see that three carbs are fully closed throttle but the RH secondary has a constant drip of fuel down the venture. It's coming right from the venturi cluster. The plate is fully closed and the other three have no fuel dripping at all. I will rebuild that carb again with attention to the passages. I had to
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I have 225 17" on the rear with 4-1/2" backspace and they fit well. I plan to go wider on the rear and front at the next tire change.
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Some still believe that if we never fight a war, things will work out great. I am not in that camp. It's a nice dream but has been proven to be fantasy every time it has been tried. I say that if you believe that, go to some of the other countries that start wars and get them to try it. Then have your family post a memorial for you. Freedom is not free.
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I believe that I did use the longer/stronger secondary return springs but I will pull off the tops and verify.
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Thanks but without suggestions to fix those issues, I am still without an answer. I'll move forward.
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Robert. Carbs were all built as would be proper for primary or secondary. Pump springs are correct. You said the linkage to the secondary's was not correct but then mentioned the accelerator pump springs. I am not sure I follow why you think the linkage is incorrect. FYI, Clarks does not sell the Accelerator pump return springs but I have several. I do know how to sync the carbs with a 4-primary
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Some notes: Using four primary carbs with relocated jets. Using the 1965 linkages that have a slotted piece that allows the first two carbs to act like a 110 until 3/4 throttle, then the secondary's open. Secondary's open almost on a snap, not progressive. I tried a direct linkage setup that Clarks sells but it was crap. Cheap materials and impossible to adjust to get the carb's working together.
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I am going to try removing the additional return springs on the secondary's. Then see if the pedal will achieve WOT in the engine bay. After that, I'll try tinkering with the adjustment in the sequence Ted suggested. As Nate said, we got the swivel to rotate as far as it would go with the pivot rod disconnected. Then adjusted the pivot clevis so it went into the hole on the swivel. I still think
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I am having fits with my 65 throttle. I had a days help with a club member but still cannot seem to get full WOT on the car. I rebuilt the entire linkages from the tunnel to the carbs. The pedal does not have enough travel to open the throttle. Is it possible the center pivot is on backwards? It is a different length from the pivot center to the front linkage and the pivot center to rear linkage.
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Aren't the small block Corvette lifters from the mid-60's an HP for the Corvair? I know I ran the HD valve springs in the 70's.
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Nice score. Welcome to the Corsa club!
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Got the brakes working somewhat in my 65 with 4-wheel disc conversion. Plan to put it on the ground today and try to drive it a bit. Race coming next Friday so race prep all week.
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My dad was in the Navy in WWII, landed at Guadalcanal. Would not talk much about it other than it was horrible. Dead everywhere and wounded that they were not allowed to take away to safety. Thank God we won that battle and the war. The world would be a terrible place without those willing to fight and sacrifice for the rest of us. Freedom has a high price that we all must pay. Also, rememberi
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In order for another species to get here, they would either have to travel for thousands, if not hundreds of thousands, of years. Either they live a long time (unlikely for any carbon based life) or they are multi generational. It would be hard for them to stay on-mission for that long given how divergent things will get over time with any species. The original mission might have been to seek new
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The MC I got has a deep hole for the push rod. The MC boot keeps it place anyway so I doubt it could fall out of place. I did adjust the push rod but I may need to do it again. There is a fair amount of free play at the top of the pedal now. That might bring the pedal up a bit more. I'll try that next.
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I put a real racing harness in the drivers seat and a cheap 4-point in the passengers side. I use the two stock belt mounting oints for the lap parts and drilled a hole near the floor right where it goes vertically to the rear seat perch. Easy enough and if your careful, the extra hole barely shows.
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