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Current Page: 1 of 170
Results 1 - 30 of 5077
2 years ago
Tom Z
I always took mineto "Pro Rebuilders" on Lyell ave, across from old Delco..another place is "North Coast" in Palmyra on 31 (?)
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
2 years ago
Tom Z
be careful by that arrow !!that 'screw' is your 'idle mix' adjustment; I often 'stretch' the spring on mine a little to keep tension on the 'needle',screw it IN and see where it stops (usually about 1 1/2 turns) then back out and WRITE IT DOWN, the other one on the side is the 'fast idle' one... I always check the long one "vertically"wi
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
2 years ago
Tom Z
I'd re-braze that piece on better to the "cross shaft" (can't weld over brazing) a good 3-speed shifter will do a cheaper quick shift swap..Unless you've already done it, I eliminated the 10-red to the front by using the 'battery cable' as a sub, dropping down to the starter solenoid (that kept the engine harness plug from melting).. I kept a short ball-end sec
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
3 years ago
Tom Z
like Frank,I (always) reverse the top 2-bolt piece on every one (previous GM cables)..also look under that 'shrink' tubing for abreak (it'll slide up the cable).. I've also found that "solder" (mabee the kind I used) would melt with the current going thru there...found that a 'big' crimp tool can be subbed for clamping in a big bench vice and squashing it a
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
3 years ago
Tom Z
Cuomo and Schumer care only about New York CITY,, not the state !! years ago ( I remember) 'western New York ' wanted to be a separate state from the CITY because the WHOLE STATE was forced to bail out "New York CITY" has it happened again?
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
3 years ago
Tom Z
thanks; I'm not sure what he (ron) has now....he just won't let me take it apart
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
3 years ago
Tom Z
a friend has a '66' (probably a Yenko),and wants to know what column the 2-spoke wood steering wheel came on then...He doesn't do any computers,etc, so he asked me
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
3 years ago
Tom Z
you should have a "chassis shop manual", pages 12-25 thru 12-27 would help (if you're good 'following lines' and use light colored markers to trace "same color wires" between 3 pages that often don't line up (I ran my book on a copier to help,,) ..you just need to know if you have a 10-100/500 0r a 10-700 (Corsa model)good luck,your eyes will go ' bug
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
3 years ago
Tom Z
--ok, which DO YOU THINK is "better" (forget the price)… Bosh or NGK ?
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
3 years ago
Tom Z
I made/cut my own.. it's 1" OAL (1/2" by 7/8" ) and 4=7/8" long (just under 5") out of similar thickness flat sheet metal; it fits inside the cover gasket...Locating it would be a problem,there's no line on the cover now
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
3 years ago
Tom Z
--assuming it's a 65 car, go to page 12-25 in the chassis shop manual;the lighter wire is NOT fused,but comes from the battery (via the Ign switch, which probably burned up) It's either your battery or the ignition sw 10red (or 10red)wire
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
3 years ago
Tom Z
--me too;I started with CAW/Everdure on Dad's AC Lincoln (old one)then got a couple yellow MIG (one flux,other was solid/gas shield),now I run the Miller,a new 140/220VAC auto set,and an inverter STL(real quiet)..the 'teacher' would sneak up behind me (no helmet) and listen to my mitakes..AFAIK "Miller" is Canadian, Hobart is from state-side== same machine,Miller seemed t
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
3 years ago
Tom Z
I used my 'old' helmet till about 2010 then I tried one-what a difference! I still nod my helmet down sometimes... I'm pushin 70 now, never thought I'd outlive my dad (or Mom,or youngest brother) I've learned from 'the best' but can't teach like they did.. I try to read Steve, and Craig but remember when Ken Hand got on
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
3 years ago
Tom Z
… "you get what you pay for" is always tue,,I have both ,bought from a dealership Always wear NON-reflective cloths (I turn a dark workshirt backwards and wear a skill-cap for a reason) Don't think that as a hobby you'll get professional reults,,if you want the job done 'right',take it to one that does it for a living ..spend half-assed and you'll get half-assed
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
3 years ago
Tom Z
Hank, what Matt said sounds right,the rocker-valve stem tip are causing the noise..your pushrod seems to be oiling pretty good now
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
3 years ago
Tom Z
that's a real PITA to do; get that rubber 'bumper' off first (2 bolts) then push the balljoint UP out of the LCA-mine has only 3 round sleeves with it..I use the one sleeve that goes OUTSIDE the flange on the LCA with (my set) the threaded screw,C clamp and the 2 discs between , they will fit the "holes"fits and one (probably the smaller one) should fit on the end of the
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 years ago
Tom Z
I remember reading an ad for it in the Communique,asked a mere $3,000 with spares..try to get a Lola or a DG300 (there's your 5-speed) today for only that!
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 years ago
Tom Z
I've got it,but...the piece is 7/8" high by 4 15/16" long,and IS NOT parallel to the factory crimp (almost but not quite)..stupid computer..can't figure out how to download it off my memory stick or downsize (old age sucks)
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 years ago
Tom Z
bummer-lost it for most of the whole day (code 403),my daughter said "it's gone"..
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 years ago
Tom Z
I measured the 'depth' of an "unbroken" snout (throw out bearing shaft) then found a deep socket I marked as 'tool'..the seal needed to be "pressed in" and bottomed and I used this deep socket (around 13/16" IIRC) to 'press' a seal in -you may have NOT put the seal in the right place, so it may have "wobbled' and oil got past it, of
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 years ago
Tom Z
..1)-integral floor pan with the pieces below the vent opening, making it part of the jacking/front frame piece (that often rusts away..) 2) fix that rust-prone area at the dash/lower windshield/wiper (that doesn't involve windshield removal) 3) and the mid-engine thing with better heating...4) better transmission...
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 years ago
Tom Z
...just think-water did THAT to grand canyon...oh yeah mommy,THATS what bubbles are for...
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 years ago
Tom Z
Steve, one thing to remember is the TRANS and the SHIFTER both have 'neutrals';first loosen your nylocks about 1/2 turn, loosen the tube to solid shaft, disconnect the tube 'brace rod' bracket from the front trans bracket..get the trans in 'neutral' like between 3rd and 4th, the shaft should be about 1" out so you get 'neutral 3=4th, keep it there...put the
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 years ago
Tom Z
....and the 'stage-3' came with a radio ?
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 years ago
Tom Z
you may have the wrong flex plate ( like a flat 'early'), or the wrong (stick) bolts that are too long
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 years ago
Tom Z
--oh,THAT car;so it took replacing every wire and going by the '66 shop man to get it "starting and running" better than before (with points)..ah well,a long time ago..
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 years ago
Tom Z
I've taken many '65 wiring harnesses apart, only way for me to learn! A diagram and a volt meter are all I needed
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 years ago
Tom Z
points always 'closed'?
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
5 years ago
Tom Z
Nick -make sure the sender/arm 'one' end of the coiled resister is GROUNDEDfixed one of mine like THUMPER did
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
5 years ago
Tom Z
Sam-on one car I opted to locate the trouble red wire to the starter solenoid,using the big battery cable as one 'leg' rather than both ways thru the connenter..I had replaced everything else anyhow,as you should (from the sounds of it)
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
Current Page: 1 of 170

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