Fuel line is attached to fuel pump, but fuel line is about 1/8 of an inch from the generator pulley. To open that gap a bit, what's the best way to bend that short section of fuel line without distorting it at the end? Thank you. Frog
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I'll be pressing on and taking all of your suggestions under advisement. Thank you. Frog
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I'm getting down to the wire for starting my rebuilt engine. I performed a static adjustment on the rockers. Here's my question: On the first start-up, should I worry much about tappet noise during that 20-minute first run. Or should I have my half-covers installed so I can adjust the tappets at that time? Thank you.
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From MattNall: "Rob, your points are not closing correctly." You are exactly correct. I just did a continuity check and was puzzled as to why it checked out fine between the coil's minus pole and the open points, but not when I closed the points and tested between the coil and the base of the static point. Sure enough, the points weren't making contact after I obvious
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If it isn't one thing, it's another. In my comments above I said that in the procedure to test the spark from the coil's high tension line, I felt the shock. Now, following this procedure to check the distributor . . . Batt. + to Ballast Resistor and wire between resistor and Coil's + Black wire from Dist. to Coils' - Now with Coil's Hi Tension lead held 1
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Apparently, my ballast resistor (B/R) failed on its first set-up. Is it common for a B/R to fail on first use, or did I buy an inferior product? (Duralast DR794 with 1.8 resistance.) In one of my comments above I statement that I heard a "muffled click" from the vicinity of my B/R when I attached my wire to the + battery terminal. Since then, I've performed every known proced
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Now, I'm really confused. I thought the ballast resistor functioned to reduce voltage to the coil to prevent it from overheating; maybe the side benefit for that lower voltage meandering its way around the primary windings of the coil is that the voltage is lower flowing through the closed points to ground. I don't know why the amount of voltage flowing through the closed points woul
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Charged the battery to 12.3 volts. I followed MattNall's instructions after that. When I touched the plus side of the battery with the clamp to the resistance-wired connector, I heard a muffled click from the vicinity of the distributor and new coil. The ballast resistor is also in that area. Ignoring that, I held the high-tension lead from the coil a quarter inch from the engine, r
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I’m fixin’ to test the spark to the number one spark plug. Because my engine’s on the bench, I’m guessing that the equivalent of “turn on the ignition” (as the sticky instruction states) is my connecting one end of the wire (that has the ballast resistor) to the + side of the coil and connecting the other end to the + terminal on the battery. My battery’s at 11.95 volts, but I believe (hope
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Man, I'm glad you clarified that . . . Thank you. Frog
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Joel of Northlake, Do you mean remove this and squirt fuel into the orifice?????
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Richard and Jim, Richard, I couldn't figure out where to locate the leads on my multimeter to test for spark. I did use Jim's method of a strip of paper between the contacts. As it were, where the paper slid out from between the points just as they opened, the rotor just happened to be aligned with the number one distributor point. With the help of all you folks on this distrib
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Thank all of you for your responses. Richard said in reference to someone else’s reply to my topic: “That isn't when ignition occurs. Ignition occurs when the points open.” (My emphasis.) That statement infused clarity in my mind, and unraveled MOST of the mechanical questions I was wrestling with trying to set up this distributor. I kept visualizing that the “spark” occurs when the
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At first, I was just confused; now, I’m really worried. I set number one piston to TDC on compression stroke. I have the 95-horsepower engine with manual transmission, so I adjusted the harmonic damper to indicate 6 degrees BTDC (first image). I installed brand-new distributor. I rotated the distributor with breaker tab on top of cam; points open. My mind tells me—as do all the illust
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Thank you.
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What should the wire size be for connecting the ballast resistor between the battery and the coil? This is for the 20-minute first-start procedure. Thank you. Frog
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Thank you I say with a sigh of relief.
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I went out to the garage and repeated the TDC procedure using the starter. Same thing . . . when I back the engine the pulley rotates maybe an inch and a half or so. Same noise of things "meshing." Once that stops and I use my large wrench to move the pulley back and forth, there's hardly any lag between when the rotor moves--in either direction on no "meshing" noises. Th
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Very close to starting engine for first time after rebuild. Performing the procedure for finding the rough positioning of the rotor of the distributor, I know I can find TDC of the compression stroke of number one cylinder by simply turning the crank CCW by hand and waiting for the pressure to build up on that cylinder. Well, since the starter's in place, battery's hooked up to the s
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Thank you.
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What's the tried-and-true rig to set and hold the throttle for the recommended 20 minutes at 2,000 RPM on initial run of bench-mounted, rebuilt engine? Thank you.
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Got it. Thank you.
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Thank you. I don't know how it showed up among my other miscellaneous parts. I have what I believe is the original distributor hold-down. Also, I can't find the FAQ for "static timing the distributor." I'm getting really close to starting the engine for the first time after rebuild.
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Please, what is this part? Thank you.
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Thank you all for the advice. Rob
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Back in September I followed the procedure for "spinning the oil pump." My engine is now buttoned up and ready for a test run. Because it's been so long since I primed it by spinning the oil pump, will I have to--or should I--repeat that procedure before start? Thank you. Frog
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Last Saturday I picked up a rebuilt generator at the Corvair meet in Maggie Valley. It has the full-faced blade shroud so I have to remove it to tighten the bolts. I saw this from a thread in '11. I need to remove the fan, but how does one "lock" the shaft to loosen the left-hand nut? Re: 62 Generator swap issues installing Posted by: caroseiii () Date: January 19, 2011 06:
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Boy, you folks have made me breathe a little easier. Thanks. Frog
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Dave Motohead, I've watched your video at least a dozen times. I understand your wiring setup, but I'm not sure whether the battery alone will keep the engine running long enough for the cam break-in. I'm guessing it must be considering there will no voltage regulator and other wire connections necessary. At this point, should I at least engage the starter and perform a compr
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I've read several accounts of how to wire up the engine for a bench run. The moment of truth is quickly approaching for when I attempt to start my "new" engine for the first time. Am I to understand that as long as a well-charged battery remains connected to the starter and ground, the engine will continue to run for the recommended twenty minutes at 2,000 RPM, and I don'
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