Last Saturday I picked up a rebuilt generator at the Corvair meet in Maggie Valley. It has the full-faced blade shroud so I have to remove it to tighten the bolts. I saw this from a thread in '11. I need to remove the fan, but how does one "lock" the shaft to loosen the left-hand nut? Re: 62 Generator swap issues installing Posted by: caroseiii () Date: January 19, 2011 06:03AM Luke, y
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Boy, you folks have made me breathe a little easier. Thanks. Frog
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Dave Motohead, I've watched your video at least a dozen times. I understand your wiring setup, but I'm not sure whether the battery alone will keep the engine running long enough for the cam break-in. I'm guessing it must be considering there will no voltage regulator and other wire connections necessary. At this point, should I at least engage the starter and perform a compression check? I
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

I've read several accounts of how to wire up the engine for a bench run. The moment of truth is quickly approaching for when I attempt to start my "new" engine for the first time. Am I to understand that as long as a well-charged battery remains connected to the starter and ground, the engine will continue to run for the recommended twenty minutes at 2,000 RPM, and I don't have to connect t
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

I've been looking for this drawing for some thirty years and finally found it. Way back in 1973, I was a young sailor stationed about the USS Forrestal (CVA-59). A group of we sailors was having a discussion about our cars and I mentioned that I had just turned over 130,000 on my '64 Corvair. One of the group members was an artist and he said he'd like commemorate that by drawing a picture for
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

Yeah, at 75, I can't take too much stress. What you're saying Wagon Master is that even though this engine is tight, my starter shouldn't have any problem spinning that thing around enough for it to fire off presuming fuel flow, ignition timing, along with all that other double-checking. If you've "Been aircooled since 1973," you're not that much younger than I.
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Thanks for the quick reply. That procedure sounds cut and dry. Regarding spinning the oil pump; I followed the procedure. In fact, I'd forgotten to tighten the valve-cover bolts and oil leaked out from them. I also saw oil seeping out from the main bearings. Thanks, again. Frog
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

I'm nearly at the point of staring my "new" engine. New meaning new pistons, cylinders, camshaft, lifters, carburetors, and fuel pump. The carbs and fuel pump are rebuilt. Do I need to "prime" the carbs or will they fill up after a few revolutions of attempting to start the engine? I've spun the oil pump with break-in oil. Engine will be tight. I keep thinking the starter won't turn it fas
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Ted, what you said about the centering hole and the end of the shaft makes sense. I measured them and the result is that the shaft of the new pump is .087" longer. Is that difference any concern? Thank you. Frog
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OK, Joel and Jim Brandberg, I don't understand the term: " . . . measurement from the center of the locating hole to the bottom of the pushrod is the critical dimension." Please enlighten me. Thank you. Frog
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May be I can put this to rest. Using a Husky digital thingy, I measured the protrusion distance of the pump stem for each of the pumps pictured. Clark’s specified protrusion distance for the ’62 to ’69 is 1/8 to 7/32 of an inch. Here’s what I came up with: My measurement on the old pump is 9/64, which is .016” above minimum distance (within specs; no problem). My measurement on
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

Thanks for the replies. MattNall, I think you're saying to disassemble the new fuel pump and cut the shaft down to the length of the older one????? Regarding "joelsplace," this fuel pump is correct because it came with the car when I bought it half a century ago, and it was functioning as designed just before I decided to rebuild the engine. Frog
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That makes sense to me. I'm wondering if I received a pump for a different year. I'd forgotten to ask another question while I was on this subject: I'm getting ready to install a new distributor. Do I need to lube up the gears on the shaft. Thank you. Frog
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I've read "Mechanical Fuel Pump Observations..." by kenzen, Jim Brandberg, Wagon Master, et al., and I've decided to reinstall my original fuel pump given all the bad press new ones received. If my old pump fails, I have the option of installing the new one I got from Clark's. I have a concern and wouldn't know how to approach it if I need to install the new one. The pump rod in the new one is
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Thank you, Frank. Crank pulley appears to have bottomed out. Frog
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Thank you, Matt. That makes sense. Also, all appears well, now. Frog
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I'm revisiting some questions I had a few months ago regarding tightening the bolt on my new haronic balancer. Here are the comments I made back then: How many repetitions of torquing up to specifications is normal? What happens is that I torque the nut to the specification from the shop manual:40-50 lb.ft. I've developed the habit of occasionally connecting my beam-type torque wrench
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Thanks for the Loctite tip. I didn't think of that--which is not unusual for my soon-to-be 75-year-old mind. Frog
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

Following up on this thread: I've been accused of "overthinking" some issues I've had regarding this and that about my car. I bought a new harmonic balancer (on the advice of forum members) from Clark's at last month's Springfest in Helen. Also bought a longer bolt and used it to begin installing the HB. Everything's working out, or so it seems. My question: How many repetitions of torq
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

I have this uncanny misunderstanding of the “strength of metals.” I’m amazed when I read that only three or four bolts are used to suspend a Rolls-Royce Trent 900 turbofan engine from the wing pylon of an Airbus A380—the Trent 900 weighs nearly 13,800 pounds, by the way. Also, and this is interesting, the shear strength of these bolts is obviously very strong; however, the bolts are des
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

I get it, now. Thanks for clearing that up for me. Good point, Tim; however, the cast pulley was stock on my low-powered 95-hp engine so I'm presuming that I can still use it considering I've done nothing to my engine to boost the horsepower or compression ratio--I think. I have read, though, that the sage advice from other members of the forum is to go ahead and get a new harmonic balancer
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Thanks for the tip, Matt. Looking through the assorted J-B Weld products, this one seems to me to be the right choice. It's good up to 550 degrees after curing. Do you agree? Thank you. Frog Timothy, I'm not sure what you're driving at.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

I put a wire brush to my crank pulley (1964 95-hp engine), today. There is pitting in the belt grove. Saw the price of a harmonic balancer--whoa! Will pitting have an adverse affect on the fan belt? Shorten life, shred it to pieces (read, shorten life), etc. The fan pulley has some pitting, too. I might be able to buy a new fan pulley. Thank you. Frog
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Thanks for the explanations. I'm going to follow your tip, Craig, and get a longer bolt to start this process. Regards, Frog
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This might be another everbody-understands-it-but-me question: On page 6A-52 of the 1961 shop manual, paragraph 37 describes the procedure for installing the crankshaft pulley. It says: "Draw crankshaft pulley into place on crankshaft, by turning retaining bolt until crankshaft pulley bottoms in place." O.K. It get that; it's obvious to me. Here's the phrase I don't get: "Back crankshaft
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Thank you, Seth, I'd thought it might've had something to do with factory stuff. Frog
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Until I saw Ken Hand's (vairmech) images of his tutorial on sealing the oil-pan gaskets, I never noticed this threaded hole. What is it for?
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O.K. Good. I'll make sure each pushrod is "springy" into the lifter, and very little lube. But, I'll lube up the rocker balls with assembly lube as per Bob Helt. Thank you for your inputs. Frog
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I'm getting ready to install the pushrods. In Dave's Motohead's video, starting at about 18:46 into it, he goes on to note that there's a little "bump" to pass through to properly seat the pushrod into the lifter. In both Bob Helt's The Classic Corvair and the shop manual for the 1961 Corvair, there's no mention of this little step. Tried as I may, I can't do this. When I push on the pushrod,
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Just ordered several to have on hand--just in case. Thank you. Frog
Forum: Corvair Center Forum