Need some help with this body tag. Build location says Van Nuys but VIN has the L code for LA. I also think some were built in Oakland. Is LA for either plant in California? Also, There is a 31 code on the Acc line. What is this accessory. Thanks.
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Thanks everyone. Decided to go with a new Clark's gear. I will pass on your installation tips to the machine shop.
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Have some bad teeth on my crank gear and need to replace it. It a used gear acceptable or is it better to get a new gear. Clarks only has the Otto Gear which is listed as a HD gear. Since the gear only contacts the aluminum cam gear is HD really needed?
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Tom, Do you recall what size AN fitting and hose you used for the drain? Also the size fitting for the head. Going to take head to machine shop and have them drill and tap for the drain. Bob
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Are the cylinder base gaskets that go between the cylinder and block reusable? Is it suggested to use any sealer? Thanks
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Plan on using my old rockers again since they look good. What is the recommended way to dress the valve contact area? Don't have a belt sander.
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Motor mount is sold.
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1965 Clark's motor mount Never used. $140.00 Shipped.
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Thanks everyone for your advice. I will check the clearance with the Distributor in the rear housing.
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It is side play. Clamped the housing in a vice and checked using a dial gauge positioned near the end of the shaft.
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Measured toward the end of the shaft with the housing clamped in a vise.
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The distributor for my 65 turbo has .038 play in the shaft to housing. I read that that stock is .030. Do I need to install a new bushing or his .038 within acceptable limits? Thanks
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Looking for a decent replacement for mine that has been modified. Would like a 66 for the larger holes since I am using 67 95 head. Could be a 65 and I could enlarge the holes. Doesn't have to be perfect just not modified. Thanks Bob
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One more observation that may be related. Had the heads rebuild by a very reputable shop. New springs were provided but about half of them were hard to install into the valve pockets in the head. By hard I mean they didn't just drop in. Several had to be persuaded gently with a rubber mallet. Could this have any impact on the rotation of the engine?
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I have made it a point to check every push rod for this and held the rocker until it reaches zero lash.
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I have the 12 point nuts on the APR rod bolts. I backed off all the rockers and the binding goes away. When I installed the new valve springs several of them were a very tight fit in the head pockets and were difficult to compress. I did remember the shims under the springs. I am going to work to see if adjusting the valves on any one particular cylinder is the cause to try to isolate the
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I checked the rod bolts and no interference there. Going to pull the bell housing next since the noise is coming from that end of the block.
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Did not measure cam to block clearance. Cam surfaces on block looked very good. Cam is new Otto and gear is new Fail Safe. New thrust washer also.
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Big ends were resized. I will check the clearances tomorrow. #5 and 6 are at mid stroke when the noise occurs.
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I backed off all the rockers and no change. While slowly turning the crank I could hear a clicking noise from inside the crankcase while slowly rotating the HB. The clicking noise is at the same spot in the rotation just before the engine gets harder to turn. I decided to pull the top cover to see if anything was obvious and it wasn't. The noise is located near cyl number 6 and the bell hou
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I will back off the rockers and retest the rotation and advise the results.
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It is once every revolution. Cylinders were bored using a fixture. I did rotate the crank after torquing the case. Rotated without any noticeable change in effort. Did not need to bang on the case at all during the torque process. Skirt clearance was .002. I checked the rotation using a beam torque wrench. starts around 16 ft lbs changes to about 22-25 ft lbs half way through the rotation.
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It is once every revolution. Cylinders were bored using a fixture. I did rotate the crank after torquing the case. Rotated without any noticeable change in effort. Did not need to bang on the case at all during the torque process. Skirt clearance was .002. I checked the rotation using a beam torque wrench. starts around 16 ft lbs changes to about 22-25 ft lbs half way through the rotation.
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Finishing up my 180 turbo rebuild. Entire rotating assembly balanced, .40 over Clark's forged pistons, Clark's .10 bearings, Otto cam with fail safe gear. Plastigaged rods and crank bearings. Right on spec. Everything went together without issues. Crank/cam install went easy and spun smoothly. After Heads were installed I noticed turning over the engine by hand, no plugs installed
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Thanks for the quick reply everyone. How about the Head Temperature sender on the other side. My head is a coarse thread and the replacements are fine threads. Is there an adapter for this on also?
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I am converting my 65 turbo to 95 heads. The boss for the head temp sensor is not deep enough for the thermister. Can it be drilled deeper for the thermister and an adapter be used for the threads? thanks
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Is a tool needed to install these seals? I have some and the are a really tight fit over new valve guides.
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I am installing the Otto T-20 cam in my new turbo engine. Are stock springs acceptable for this cam? Should new springs be put in or are the original springs OK to use over after inspection. Should retainers be replaced?
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Make sure you have the tang on the correct side according to the factory manual. Tab should be on the passengers side of the shifter as it is installed. Easy to get it wrong when working on it upside down.
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Pulled the valve springs out of one of my turbo heads and found new bronze guides, teflon seals and these seats. Measure .26 wide. Do they look like deep seats? Thanks Bob
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