Have everything back together this AM - haven't started the engine yet, but adjusted by the book I have closet 2" of free play at pedal. My presumption is that I can adjust some this out as long as the bearing does not contact the clutch cover when relaxed. I will wait to do anything until I see how it engages now when I start the engine and try to shift.
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Very possible - I can measure the step in the NOS unit and compare.
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OK - I made a run to Baton Rouge yesterday and helped a friend with his '65. Brought home an NOS flywheel and FC pressure plate. New 9" disc from Clark's. Correct late pivot ball on differential. NOS throw out bearing also. One thing I found - measuring how much the pressure plate spring deflects when bolted to the flywheel - comparing the one I have been running to the NOS unit
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Well, I searched . . . probably should have stated that . . .that's how I found THIS thread . . . . . . Thanks Dave!!! Man, I DID NOT want to take this thing back out LOL
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I was inspecting the rear end of my late-model just the other day, and realized when I grabbed the top of the tire and pulled outward it gave slightly (car raised, tire off ground). I thought something was horribly wrong, upon further inspection I found that the inner yoke was moving slightly in and out of the differential. This is a remanufactured unit and I thought something was wrong. Do I
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Yes. Late clutch setup.
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That is exactly what I found Rex. Taller was originally on my '62 with a star lock under it, the shorter was on a '66 with no washer. I expect the difference between the two installed is closer to .060" or so.
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Here they are side by side. LM on left, EM on right. Figure the EM also had a lock washer ~ .025" (or more) thick under it . . . making it ~ .065" taller at least? LM had nothing beneath it. Everything in my being says "Certainly this little bit of height difference can't be the issue!!" . . . . but GM changed it for a reason right? Everything else is checking
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That's exactly what I found Rex. The original early set up had a taller ball stud with a washer under it. The late model diff had a shorter ball stud with no washer. I plan to use that one now. Since I'm running a late style set up.
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Just came back from the shop and retrieved a late model pivot ball. I clearly see the difference between the two now. Not only was I running the early pivot ball previously, for most of the time it had a washer underneath it, making it even taller. The late model did not have a washer underneath, just screwed into the casting.
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Most local paint shops offer any color by code in a spray can . . .
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I just measured the finger deflection when bolted to the flywheel w/disc in place. I get .355" which is within spec if I read correctly. Should be ~3/8" . . . . or .375" I'm .020" under that but my fine motor measuring 'skills' could be off some Definitely more than the 1/4" and less than the 1/2" called out in various books. So everyt
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Craig - I am looking into the pivot ball - need specs on early vs. late. I had read that the Clark's unit ships with a washer - and the washer is used for early and discarded for late? Just something I read, I did not install a Clark's pivot ball. Originally this one had a washer underneath. I removed the washer last year when I rebuilt the engine (thinking along the lines of what I re
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I removed the power pack from my '62 rampside last week to put some 3.55 gears in it - prepping for the drive to Wisconsin. Tired of 4k RPM freeway running. A great local friend helped me get the diff together yesterday - we rebuilt the posi carrier with new clutch plates also - and it is ready to go in . . . except for . . . I have had a problem with my clutch adjustment since I built t
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PM sent
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Makes sense Dave - this was a '66 140 w/AC. I just went back with the turbo style shroud as it was already powder coated and part of the donor engine build. Any thoughts as to why they'd run it to the passenger side on this combo?
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The '66 140/PG AC car I am working on now had the same air hose. Factory AC car for sure. The top shroud I went with had the turbo style oval outlet on the left, so mine dumps straight down to it rather than going over to the right.
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Agree entirely - waiting to order . . .
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Well, I know this is an old thread but damn . . . . . another 'rebuilt' QSB box (years ago, known as a reputable vendor). PO bought it rebuilt, installed it on a car that I got in a trade 9 years ago. Car was never driven - box never used. I took it down while I had it off (moving from donor car) and decided to replace seals and it turned into a rebuild. Zero lubricant in it. Long
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Feel like I experienced all of that Dave! I just had a SUCCESSFUL hot start 1 hour after the fact. That is a FIRST with this engine. I’ve been fighting this since break-in when the engine was on the ground. Stoked!!!
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So I just finished installing Dave’s kit. I’ll say it is a fine design and Dave is very responsive & helpful. I adjusted it to read stock height initially and wasn’t too surprised to see it pegging 10lbs when cranked. I dialed it down to 4lbs. Car idled as long as I let it once warmed up - which it would not do yesterday with fuel spilling over once the pump pressure overcame the needle
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I just had this conversation yesterday with two close friends. Really hoping Clarks brings consistency in output pressure and OE equivalency or better with all the effort they have put in and $$ spent. I’ll get one and put it on the RS - make the current pump a spare.
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Dave - got your PM and thanks for contributing the way you do to this hobby / culture / obsession Do you have a short list of expected problems seen when the pressure is too high out of the pump? I can only logically presume my pump is way high - will know more later today when I finish installing your kit,
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Well, on my similar issue on a 140, I went through my carbs with a fine tooth comb today. Found a few small items that needed addressing. Had 2 good hot starts about 20 minutes or so after warming up. 45 minutes later or so it would not start. I can see fuel pooled under LH secondary. I imagine it is also pooled under RH primary - just cannot see well. Looks wet under RH secondary - engine is can
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That is what I was speaking of Al . . .all engine hardware. I have probably 3 full sets (more than I should need) on hand. Was something to do I suppose and got me organized.
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Nice! My ADD/OCD has me restoring bolts for a few weeks there. Have plenty for future builds.
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PM sent Dave! Thanks . . . . Greg
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American Mel Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Remember,........... azdave makes a nice pressure adjusting kit for the stock mechanical fuel pump. There a thread here detailing it? I hav a pressure gage showing up today, but would invest in a system that would allow me to accommodate fuel pump changes in the future without worrying how off the new one is
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OK, I tried the C clamp today and it laughed at me. So the relay rod came off, walked it over to the press (I'm such a procrastinator) and this is what I found. Not sure how the heck this was supposed to work. Serrated bolt, pressed into the bushing that was in turn pressed into the old steel cage of original bushing. That is the bolt head impression in the end of the bushing, and you can
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Interesting read. I am starting to thing that my 140 fuel problem (another thread) is possibly my pump putting out too much pressure - leaking past the needle seats as it sits after I kill it. I have a pressure gage on the way to test.
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