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Today
vairmech
First off, the spark plug looks fine yes but it also looks to be running a little hot. The deposits on the ceramic give that away. Second, Dale DeWald - upnorthvairs - did a scientific test on new, aftermarket and used thermistors with a report on ohm readings. I made the aluminum slug for the test where several could go in at one time.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
Yesterday
vairmech
Well people have tried and mostly failed on front springs on here. BTW, what does that MOOG spring number fit? Probably a wrong application to start with. I used to get a MOOG spring and modify it but when they obsoleted the spring number I had springs made that were like my modified MOOG springs. I offer a front spring kit that lowers the front by 2" and will make the front ride like a C
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
2 days ago
vairmech
There is a 00grease that is specified but I have always used Amsoil grease and about 10% STP or the equivalent. I think GM still offers the original lube if that is the way you want to go.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
3 days ago
vairmech
You are not that far from Bill Richards, He is just south of Cleveland by a half hour. Find the club near you and then you will find local help.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 days ago
vairmech
I believe 67 was all by it's self if I remember correctly.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
5 days ago
vairmech
Anymore I do not use any u-joint that has a grease zerk. I use the solid u-joints and install my own Amsoil grease. As far as installation goes just put them together as all the design work has already been done. You also said "all 4" so you must have a late model car. There will be a lot of axial play in the diff yoke but that is acceptable. I think you may have been referring to r
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
6 days ago
vairmech
If you just want to lower the pedal you can adjust the push rod shorter, this will effectively lower the pedal. You can then add a longer rubber block to hold the pedal down where you have adjusted it to. Keep in mind that if the brakes wear and you do not adjust them you could end up with the pedal on the floor. Also if you have a dual master and you break a line you may not have the full safet
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
8 days ago
vairmech
They will fit in the pockets but Earlies are typically heavier than a Late. Also be careful with which spring you use, do your investigation and math before you put them in.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
9 days ago
vairmech
Well, think about the way the system works and what it does then what the engine needs! Yes, the choke closes off the opening of the carb but what does it do? First off the engine when cold needs a really rich mixture to fire off but it won't run well this way. With the plate closed the fuel is literally sucked out of the venturi when you crank. The choke pulloff is also starting to open
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
13 days ago
vairmech
Just by looking they look like they just might bolt on!
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
13 days ago
vairmech
A long time ago I got tired of blowing the Holley power valves and I would just RTV the diaphragm closed. This was with the 390 but I don't remember the list number. I did this on my Corvair and I had no issues as the secondary jets are plenty big, at least mine were. If you want to run the power valve I found that the lightest one you can get works better and there is also a kit for the
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
14 days ago
vairmech
It has been my experience with the early's that all the mounts need to be in near perfect condition so the engine does not move fore and aft. The second thing is the horse collar body mounts, they also need to be good as they will also let the engine move.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
14 days ago
vairmech
Wow, Thanks everyone.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
14 days ago
vairmech
I just pulled an engine on a car and it has the wrong engine in it because it is a 68 PG car with a ZG engine code and is a 164 cu in. The engine has been apart because it has forged pistons in it and not to old at that. I can tell there is an aftermarket cam but I don't have the bellhousing off yet to know which one. It also has a nitrided crank that is NOT a PG crank with 140 heads. It als
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
14 days ago
vairmech
I use a battery powered 1/2" impact wrench. You can tell when to stop when the sound changes. Just don't keep going. The forward edge of the pulley/balancer should be about 3/8" away from the timing mark.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
14 days ago
vairmech
CREATIONBLUE Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The alternator is fairly new, changed when I rebuilt the motor and hasn’t done that many miles. Think I’ll check the idle pulley bearing again tho as I’ve never had that apart. Anyone know what the replacement bearing is for this or even if it’s serviceable? >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
19 days ago
vairmech
If it means anything I torque all engines, even my race engines running 12-1, to 30# but I will NOT use copper gaskets. I use a little spray lithium grease on the upper threads and some gets on the head surface also, just a spritz is all that is needed, the lower studs get a little silicone grease because the o-rings get a dab and some gets on the threads. If the upper stud wants to twist with th
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
22 days ago
vairmech
I would say rather than trying to increase backlash try a thinner shim by a couple of thou and then decrease your backlash. You really only need to do one tooth and I only ever do the drive side, the coast side pretty well takes care of it's self. Also, instead of trying to make the perfect contact pattern yu need to look at the pattern that is on the teeth already and try to copy
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
25 days ago
vairmech
I don't mean to sound crabby(?) but so many people ask the same thing and get answers that really aren't even relevant. For what you describe the 304 cam is a very good all around choice for a "stock" engine. I also have to say there is nothing wrong with a reground cam. I use them all the time with no issues. Another thing, aftermarket springs are no more expensive than
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
26 days ago
vairmech
Basically what you have posted about, to me, is basically click bait. Everyone has an opinion. You have given a couple of parameters but not what you expect out of the engine, you have sort of. You have given a little insight of what you want to do but a cam alone does not make an engine! You say you are staying somewhat stock to save money but if you want a good all around engine it needs
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
26 days ago
vairmech
wittsend Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Just when I thought I got a definitive answer I spoke to someone who is known as a knowledgeable person here at the CC when I was at Cars & Coffee this weekend. I figured another opinion wouldn't hurt. > > He stated that there are no washers on the bolts/nuts of the case. When I asked about early bolt
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
26 days ago
vairmech
wittsend Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for all the input and links. Unless there is a good argument against, I'm going to put the washer on the bolt side and rotate the bolt (steel on steel) holding the nut stationary. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I didn't catch
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
28 days ago
vairmech
I have to ask how many times do you go through the head torque sequence? If you say only once then the center head nuts are already loose when you stop. I go through the torques up to 6 times before all of the head nuts torque equal.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
30 days ago
vairmech
With everything you are asking I will say you are in the $8000-$10,000! Then shipping is a whole other matter. I have shipped to Australia before and the shipping cost could be as much as half the cost or more! I will also add that I will send you components to assemble. I also offer a 2.9 version of engine that requires no boring of the heads or block!
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 weeks ago
vairmech
63turbo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It was mostly to improve the boosted volumetric efficiency. Leaded premium gas being what it was, the loss of the quench pads didnt matter very much. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I beg to differ a little on that. The 64-6 turbo heads were/are more prone
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 weeks ago
vairmech
It is worth something! LOL I would say $50-$100 depending on which Mallory is it, there are several different numbers and does it have a vacuum advance option? Where abouts are you in Australia? There are several others over there and some that are not even on this list that I know of.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 weeks ago
vairmech
RatVair Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I have a 4 barrel manifold. Chrome runners, needs new rubber and hose clamps.IECO brand. Unknown what carburetor it takes. $20 plus shipping from Salt Lake City. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Spend the $20 plus and run!!!!!! Get a Qua
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 weeks ago
vairmech
I have posted about this so many times I will say go look for the other posts. Carbon does not build up in the groove! It does not produce a hot spot in an aluminum head! I run these in the race car and in my street engines I build. Race engine piston, this is just marks no erosion.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 weeks ago
vairmech
Lane66m Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I had not disassembled my EM case yet. It might have those bolts, washers and nuts. > > All of the shank of that bolt should inside the case. Washer should on the nut. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>&
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
4 weeks ago
vairmech
The bolts generally do not need to be sealed and it does not matter which way the bolts go in the block.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum
Current Page: 1 of 269

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