Ethanol in e10 raises approximately 2 octane points.
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Here is mine:
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Your wife is lucky!
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Welcome and nice car!
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I would 100% do the Mikuni. So tunable. My 140 blow thru is working well, however, Ken has much better control of his AFR's than I do. Or EFI
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OOhh, nice!
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I made my own cross over the size of the 140 exhaust pipes. I have a E/B turbo and mine pulls hard most of the time. I can get boost in 1st if I really wind it out, Same with second but a bit sooner. Third really kicks in nicely and hold on..... I usually pull my foot out of it at 80'sh, don't really need to get in trouble. Sorry, can't really answer your question for off the s
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Joel, please let us know about increase in road noise when you get them installed. Thanks Tom
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RexJohnson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Doesn't Dave Motohead have a youtube for doing this?
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Had to take the Spyder for a cruse, great weather, cool ride.
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Congrats! All three are gems.
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SWEET!!!!!!!!!!
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In the Corvair Gold literature it states no 4 speed in 60.
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Clarks sells a kit like that for the engine lid with cover.
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Frank DuVal Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > QuoteTom > I dished my forged pistons > > > Doesn't this remove the quench area? Not under quench.
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kmart356 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > I'm sure others that run non turbo heads will chime in on their experience. > > I’ll take the bait... > > Current turbo engine running stock 110 heads, breathing through a Mikuni HSR45 with black box programmable timing and programmable water-methanol injection. Getting 16-18psi on premium p
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Looking Great, moving fast!
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What a head design comes down to is having a quench area to keep down detonation and having the compression ratio with in a range that will keep you out of detonation. A stock 110 head has too much compression along with a 140 head as is from the factory. A 64-66 turbo head has no quench but has low compression to keep down detonation under boost, however is a bit of a turd driving naturall
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With the 63 turbo heads or 140 you would need to probably dish the piston to reduce the compression ratio. I have a 140 heads on my turbo, however, I dished my forged pistons and removed some of the size of the step to bring the CR to below 9:1. 140 heads as is would put you into detonation easily once boost hits.
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95 hp are your best option. The 110 can be used if major reshaping of the combustion chamber is done. If you have a mill and can do the reshaping yourself then go for it, otherwise it might cost more than a set of 95 heads just to have those areas reshaped. The 64-66 turbo heads are less than ideal with no quench area, if trying to run on modern gas and using some type of ignition other than
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Welcome back, good looking 911.
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I bet as symmetrical, mine is asymmetrical and the doors are behind the upright. I put piping insulation on the upright of the lift area of mine to protect the doors. My doors could hit the upright, but not as far forward as Deans. Or his might be much wider than mine. Dean has all the goodies.
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Missed a spot! JK, looks great!
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Addendum to my previous post for the sequence, it would be just for cars with a W in the VIN for the sequence.
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The digits after the W is the number in the production of all corvairs for that year. I believe the way that you could verify is find someone else with a October build corvair of that year and the sequence in the vin should be close. Also have you checked here:
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Everyone I have seen have been light coat of flat black????
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Trim tag 10B says body was built second week of October. This needs to be compared with the last series of numbers of the VIN. Do you have the numbers after the letter (L or W) in the VIN? OOPS see dave beat me to it.
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I have seen this in person, the inner structure would not clear the engine.
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Uh Oh, look what show up today! I need to retire to catch up. First need to finish the engine tuning in the spyder and methanol injection and then I can put the fuel injection on the engine that is going in the wagon.
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