Maybe switch to a 7/8 master cylinder. Will increase pedal travel and decrease effort.
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Great update! Glad to hear it’s making boost. Turbos are fun. I sold my big turbo recently and immediately regretted it and started building another.
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I have a couple 10/10 & cranks here from core engines. Touching a throw with a file and the file easily bites in. Not so much on a original unturned one. Would love to know the actual hardness ratings of them nitrided and not. I got a original one that has not been turned for my current turbo build.
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If you still need one pm me and I’ll send you one free.
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I really like Blue Chip Machine head nuts and have used them since I found them. Chase threads - I bought a hex drive die to make it easier to do with a wrench. Anti-sieze on everything. Gradually come up to torque as well as a few final passes re-checking. I usually go to 27.
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I have installed several sets of the wagners for friends. The headlight backer rings need new slots for the bulb alignment lugs as they are not the same. Also the connectors are screws and not plugs on the back of the bulb. So you need to make up wires or otherwise adapt. Nothing difficult but takes a little time. I like the option better then tinting stock bulbs or applying a film.
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John Sweet has viton pump cups!
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pm sent
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Wagon Wednesday
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Curses Frank! That looks like a heck of a deal.
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Jim - is that a piece you would be willing to sell / trade? Thanks! Geoff
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I have a set of 13’s aluminum slotted wheels. They are white. Might be a bit to ship….. but there would like to find a good home.
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Looking for suggestions. Emphasis is on keeping it looking stock. Should I drill and add a stock tube or otherwise? Looking to buy a used drain tube off a junk head if possible. I am using 110 heads in this case that I have that have been rebuilt. Pistons have been milled on top Clark’s style to reduce compression while maintaining quench.
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What are you using to strip the paint caraholic?
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I'm a Potiac Flathead fan of course. But hard to say no to an Olds Rocket if you found one.
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Wow. I think Beers nailed it! I had pondered if it was something similar. Almost thought about looking for something to fit but ultimately decided just to remove it.
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Nice work Craig! I have the recommended crimper and I would not do the job without. I have installed one or more in an early, a late an FC and even my Buick. I can't recommend these enough! Speaking of - I need one for my '66 turbo coupe!
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Brakes are looking good Phil! Gem will drive like new. Today I got rid of this doofiness on the fender of my '66 turbo. Not sure what it was, but it had to go.
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Whole car the paint is thick and might be hiding a lot. Pinchweld seams have been filled in rocker on driver side. Thats concerning. Missing rocker trim and wheel well trim and monza crosses. Fiberglass can be seen in one of the underbody shots. Front floor vents are wrong. They are for 62-63 vert. Spyder dash is '62. A very nice one at that, but wrong for the car.
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Not Corvair work per se but will let me do more work on corvairs. Brought home a small 12 ton press today. As folks age out and shops close up there is more and more I need to be able to do myself. This ought to help.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

That is specious reasoning. We know about wire gauges. Where did you get single strand? You are not running the full 15 feet. Typically 5 -7 maybe? Dont like the product dont use it but blindly bashing it like that is absurd.
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I did the same in the past. Put a 60 hood on a later model. Like the simplicity.
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dryenko Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Note : > 16 Gauge wire is too small to run a proper 12V fuel pump at the amps it requires. > Especially with 15 feet of wire at that size. > This poor choice by the manufacturer make me suspect about the whole product. Huh. 16 ga says 12 amps for 12 volts. Avg fuel pump seems to draw 3-5 amps. I
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

> A question for you and Mike Levine, what heads are you guys using? I used stock 180 heads on the E flow engine, and it had a safeguard. New engine I am working on will use 110 heads that have had some opening done to the eyebrows to lower the compression a bit. The pistons also have clarks octane cut done to them to lower compression a bit as well without messing with the quench ar
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I have installed half a dozen at least in my cars and friends / customer cars. Easy and works well.
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E/B turbo was the most fun I ever had with a turbo. Later changed to E/F and it wasn’t the same, not bad though. I am currently putting together a F/B combo as described here. Will see.
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For future reference here is a picture. You can just make out the brown viton seal in the picture.
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Ugh. Hate that discovery. Best wishes getting it repaired.
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FC radio mount will have two screws along the front top that are still visible when mounted that are used to mount it to the dash. Vs the three studs a car mount uses. They are comparatively hard to find given fewer FC's and radios were rarer in FC's as well.
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Early spyders had that right Frank? I knocked some off a cover once thinking they were added. Doh!
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