And thanks to Phil Dally for bringing those engine tins I needed and also the surprise of the perfect dash panel.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

Thanks so much to Phil Dally for taking the time to organizing this get together. I certainly enjoyed meeting you folks.
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Frank DuVal Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Right. What is the voltage on the big terminal of the alternator compared to the battery? Or, putting one lead of the voltmeter on the big terminal of the alternator and the other lead on the positive terminal of the battery, do you read voltage? Thanks Frank, this morning with the car cold, I started it up and I
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

jamesolefjensen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > With the solid state voltage regulator, my dash lights pulsate but only at idle and only slightly. At speed it's either stops or I haven't noticed it. I'm not saying it's normal but it hasn't been a problem. Thanks James. I took it out today and all seemed to be normal. Steve Thor
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joelsplace Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 13V was too low. > New parts are often junk. Yeah, about 15 years ago I bought a new condenser for my 36 Ford. I know I had never put more than 40 miles on it and then one day the car wouldn't start and it came down to the condenser. One of the local Model A Ford guys sold me a used condenser and I never
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

Well, I've got 14-15 now but what I'm worried about is driving at night with the lights doing that pulsating thing and getting pulled over by the California Highway Patrol for it. It's really noticeable.
Forum: Corvair Center Forum

I drove my 65 Corvair around town yesterday, running errands, and it ran great. I checked the battery voltage while I was out and it was staying at 13 volts while charging. Then last night I wanted to see how it would do running with the lights on. I started it up and turned on the light switch and noticed that the instrument lights were pulsating, not like having the emergency lights flashing
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chuckvh Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How about if we start another list of what folks may be bringing to sell or looking to buy? I'm needing 1965 engine tin for mine. The lower parts around the exhaust manifold and the doors at the back.
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Phil Dally Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The 10-day forecast for that area has made it to our date...74 and sunny!!! This is great. Steve Thornton and I will be driving our Corvairs down there.
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Thank you everyone for your input. I went down this morning and picked up an electric/solid state voltage regulator and it seems to be working fine, or as best as I can find. I'm getting 13 volts when idling and 14 volts when accelerating, at the battery posts. The GEN-FAN light does not come on when I turn the key to the right but it does come on when I turn the key to start the car
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I've tried two new voltage regulators from Rock Auto, STANDARD, on my 65. They will work perfectly at first with the GEN/FAN light coming on when I turn the key on and then the light will go out when the car is started and running and I turned on the head lights, heater fan and windshield wipers immediately after starting the car like the instructions call for. I let the car run at idle for
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jjohnsonjo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Like I said to my wife, the gas gauge will tell you when its time to "P"
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I found that the filter sock is twistable and the float rod will now slide along the side of it and down, but installed the gauge will still not register completely empty because I think the elbow in the rod is resting on the bottom of the tank, not the float. So tomorrow I'm going to bend the rod up, next to the sending unit and this will raise the rod's elbow so it can move down more
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My fuel gauge will read empty at the empty mark, but the problem is the filter sock is in the way and won't allow the float shaft to go all the way down when the sending unit is in the tank. Has anyone else noticed this? I'm not sure if I want to bend the float rod left of the sock or right of the sock. I don't want the float getting up along the wall of the tank, on one side o
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This is what my 65 is showing on the gauge with a completely empty tank. So if I pull the sending unit out of the tank will I want to bend the float rod up just a bit or down just a bit, to try getting the gauge needle closer to the empty mark?
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American Mel Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > it worked. Yeah, I think I'm getting the hang of it.
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Mike Stillwell Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I can send you a tested working (can send a video) AM Radio with ‘65 buttons for $45, shipping included, from Virginia. No face plate or knobs, or I can include an OK set - not show quality. > > Mike > YS-117 Thanks so much Mike, I'll keep that in mind. I'm just kinda looking at my option
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cnicol Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The nice thing about Wade's solution is the beveled, die cast lower edge. The factory delete plate's lower edge is flat to the dash and relatively cheap looking stamped aluminum. > > Factory delete plates were painted dash color in the center but the paint doesn't stick well so they're easily
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PGVair Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Here's one I made using a spare stock faceplate. I had a factory delete plate but didn't like it. It might have been the one American Mel referred to. > > Wade WOW! You really did a great job on that. ????????
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DOUG WARD Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > David, did you consider that the lack of reception could be an antenna problem ? The radio did work when I first brought it home last October and the front and rear speakers worked. The antenna is connected. The fuse is not blown and the green glowing light works. It doesn't have any reception at all not even
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Just a drive to the Bakersfield post office.
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I have a 65 Monza and I pulled the radio out last week, was considering sending it some where to be fixed, just no reception at all. And I thought, what about a factory deletion plate?
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Picture test
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I pulled the cigarette lighter out of my 65 and cleaned it up, I knew I'd find a use for that Dremel tool, so it would work with my iPhone charger and it works great now.
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Ok, The 15th and if rain then meet up on the 29th. Got it.
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Hey thanks everyone for all the info. I believe the plastic covers are actually on top of the retainer clips but allow water to still exit underneath the plastic, otherwise it would retain water in there which it’s not. So I’ll leave them alone for now.
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Can anyone clue me into why a previous owner of my 65 Monza would glue plastic covers over the drain holes of the rear cowling? ???????
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Frank DuVal Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Late models came with group 22F batteries. There was the option for a group 24 battery, which included longer cables. info from : > > Thank you very much Frank for the info. on the battery.
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RobertC Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 24F > > I have used DieHard - 600+ cranking amps - from Sears. > > But, I doubt that many Sears stores exist anymore, but other places sell Die Hard batteries. > > There are a couple threads here on batteries... Thanks so much Robert for the info. on the battery.
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The battery that came with my 65 Monza is a rather small one, like the size of the battery that came in my Honda Goldwing years ago. So what size and cranking power are you folks going with? And where would you suggest to buy one from?
Forum: Corvair Center Forum