While I get that the two doors in a 66 Monza convertible will jiggle a bit more than a hardtop, the passenger-side door on mine has gotten worse recently. I had the same issue on my 73 Eldorado convertible, which was solved with a plastic sleeve replacement on the striker (and something about shims) but I'm not sure how to tighten up that door on the Monza. I keep looking over at it thinki
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Based on your advice, I ordered four whitewalls from SimpleTire and they arrived in three days. Thanks for the tip! I'd never heard of them.
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Based on these comments I'm ready to hit "send" on an order for four of these tires from Simpletire but didn't see any info about date codes. I'm guessing that if these tires are so rare, yet needed, the tires won't have been sitting on a shelf for years. It kills me to trash my Hankooks when there's tread left, but the age thing has me worried. Simpletire is
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I have to have a landline for a number of reasons (I hardly get any bogus calls on my cell) but the spousal unit is going to turn 65 (Medicare) in freaking November and the health insurance calls have already started! We're on "The List" but it truly doesn't matter and caller ID, which is great, STILL makes you get up every time the phone rings to see who it is. As has been
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Once I felt the "pop" trying to put the window down, I stopped, but then tried a little up-and-down cranking and it still had the resistance it normally does but the window did not move. I love winter but can't wait for it to warm up and see what's what.
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Thanks all. I'm going to give it a try when it warms up and will seek Zen first because patience is not one of my strongest suits.
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Well maybe I'll give it a try when it warms up. Clark's doesn't seem to carry regulators and I appreciate the offers of free ones but I must PAY for my mistakes; at least shipping and handling!
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A month or so ago when it was stupid cold I took my '66 Monza out (dry roads) to get everything hot and apparently made the fatal mistake of trying to roll down the driver's window when it was basically frozen. I heard a faint pop and the handle would still turn but the window would not. I can gently move the window a bit by hand. What do you think I've done, and how difficult i
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1963RedBrier Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I will never understand why Chevrolet put BLACK > interiors in convertibles... I totally agree, and have the burn marks on the back of my thighs from today's errand running to prove it. But the Eldo (white interior) can sit out all day and maybe get warm to the touch.
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I'd like the hood ornament ... quack quack!
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They didn't ask and I didn't tell.
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I've wondered this for years but never asked an assembly of people who know car engines well. Just returned from an 80-mile drive, in -5 to 6 above clear weather, all 70 mph freeway. I have a 2000 Chrysler LHS and thru the entire return trip I could see billowing steam (I hope!) coming out the tailpipe in the side and rearview mirrors. Looking at all the other cars on the freeway, I'
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Well ... my expectations were low anyway so I'm not too disappointed that it's still chugging on cold start, but maybe not as badly (wishful thinking?) I got the rod clip off (and back on!) turned the rod CW twice AND bent it a bit so the opening was 3/8's inch in the left carb. THANKS all for the input. At least I now know more than I did before. Got a call into my daily drive
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But exactly how do I shorten the rods two turns, Matt? And why is it temporary? The manual is rather confusing but it sounds like I have to actually bend metal linkage pieces to adjust them. And Rex. It's Door #1, the car fires up right away and in a few seconds starts stumbling or chugging. Does not die or come close.
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The 3/16 drill bit just fit on the right carb when holding in the tab but it is too tight to pass by on the left carb. If I'm reading the manual correctly that means I have to actually bend metal. Gulp.
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I pushed the gas pedal to the floor yesterday and both plates closed completely. And I just did the tab/hose test, pushing the tab in, then covering the hose connector with my finger. Both carb tabs stayed in until I removed my finger and they then popped back out, So that's OK, right? By the way, Steve. I'm a member of the local Corvair club and they're nice people but h
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OK, gotta ask the stupid questions: I assume the engine should be running? Should it be hot or cold? By "tab" do you mean the metal bar that sticks out of the pull-off? And I do this to both carbs? If they're OK, what exactly did Matt mean by two turns to shorten the rods? What gets turned?
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I know this problem is simple but just don't feel comfortable (or knowledgeable) enough to proceed. I read the manual (tune-up and carb) and even searched YouTube but I just don't get it. Took the air cleaner off and fiddled with both carbs but just know I'll f-it-up worse. Thanks for all your suggestions.
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Pulling out my manual tomorrow to see what these ideas look like in daylight. I don't know a choke pulloff from an artichoke but can probably figure it out. Thanks!
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Ever since I got my '66 110 back from a shop (that I don't really trust anymore), upon cold start it fires up right away to a normal high idle, then in a few seconds devolves into chugging as if not firing on all six. This black soot now appears under the tailpipe, and it smells pretty strong although I can't really see smoke in the garage. By the time I'm out of the neighbo
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Can't recall the details but I bought a reconditioned clock from a guy in Wisconsin who does this regularly. Must have found him by Googling GM Corvair clock or something. Anyway I ... who has next-to-no skills, installed it and hooked it up successfully while the dash was already in place. Works great. Just remove the blank and the clock fits right in.
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I just saw a video of a rescuer and TV reporter boating down a street in a neighborhood of VERY big and nice houses. The water was already above the first floor and into the second. The tops of street signs submerged. Then they went past one large house that was only a chimney and smoldering ruins from the water line up. Creepy. Just doesn't seem real.
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I'm a little late to the party but was going to enthusiastically echo the Magic Eraser idea. The white leather in the Eldorado was looking pretty grimy so I used a box of 10 on the whole interior, rinsing with clear warm water after sponging and could not BELIEVE the result. One word of advice; wear gloves! I don't know what the "magic" is in those things, but it eats your
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I NEVER thought I'd ever own a Prius but when the wife needed a new car, she wanted a small wagon and they just don't make many (affordable) ones anymore and she loved the Prius V. As much as I dislike the CVT ... and may never get used to it totally ... it is amazing how often the gas engine is actually off (big long downhills) with AC and power steering/brakes still running. Amazing
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Thanks all. For torsional rigidity reasons I may have a body shop see if a simple weld will keep it from getting worse. The passenger door seems to open and close just fine with no sag or wiggle. I still wonder if this was the loud "crack" I heard when jacking the car up a while back. I'll try to remove the kick panel and see about the large hole ... if it's plugged. Othe
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So even though I paid for both rockers to be replaced, which may or may not have happened ...and this car has NEVER seen wet pavement since the body work was done 5+ years ago ... I'm screwed. It's a convertible too, which probably means more. Not sure what to do.
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Sorry this pic is WAY too big. But you get the idea? Right passenger door.
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Just washed the 66 and while drying out the door jambs noticed these two cracks. A couple years ago I was jacking up the car (using the right points) to slip those caster dollies under each wheel to store the car sideways in my garage and I heard a rather loud "crack" But I didn't think much more about it. The rockers were supposedly replaced on both sides when I had the paint do
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And we have liftoff!! The distributor cap came off exactly as described, and there was maybe an inch and a tad of wire hanging outside the rubber pass-thru. I carved off some of the insulation on both ends, twisted together and wrapped tightly in electrician's tape. I guided it under the distributor so it's no longer in range of wrenches when adjusting the belt. And it fired right u
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I'm not doing any more tonight since I'm otherwise committed, but glancing at the schematic it looks like the neg wire goes to the condenser, which may or may not be under the distributor cap? (I told you I'm no engine wizard, but trying). Looks like a couple screws keep the distributor cap on. I should do surgery tomorrow?
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