I've been a Civil War reenactor for thirty years including doing living history for the National Park Service at Gettysburg. Played ice and deck hockey (goaltender), Raced both oval track and road course (built my own race cars), Raced slot cars (Northeast Modified Slot Car Tour), and dove shipwrecks in the Atlantic off the coast of Long Island. Certification in underwater archeology. I hav
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I'm sure Jeff at Corvair ranch would have one. Condition ???
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Kinda looks like a fifty-six Dodge.
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Neat design, but, definitely not a Corvair.
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Shifter should not need to be removed for carpet install, but, nuts that hold it to floor are in the tunnel. If you wish to remove shifter, tunnel (Shield) must come down.
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The answer is, NO, you don't need to paint your fuel tank. The real question is, do you want to? In m experience, Corvair tanks rus through from the inside out. You may want to think about using a coating on the inside.
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Would you please tell us what products you are using. Have some light scratches in clear coat after wet sanding my engine lid. Thanks.
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Love the fan belt keeper on the turkey roaster too! That's doing a lot of good.
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Good to see Terry Stafford's #66 Spyder. Long Island Strong! Former LICA President, Ty Magliola Still Corvairing in Delaware
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Contact Jeff at Corvair Ranch in Gettysburg about your cylinder heads.
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Just to update my original post. The car has now been put back to the stock four carb set up.
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Robert, I certainly hope you meant CORVAIR. Where are you located? Instructions to upload photos are in FAQ section. Welcome!
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Cfmann and When I'm 64- Thank you for helping with David's original post and question. As I posted elsewhere, I've seen his car recently and its condition certainly Merits his asking price. It's not a show car, but, very clean and able to hold its own at any cruise event and get you there and home again safely. Good luck with the sale!
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You need a ground to the body as well. On late models this is accomplished with small ground straps in the corners of the engine compartment.
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Lincoln, my yellow Lab, loves top down drives for the same reasons. The back seat is his. Would never own a show queen because then he couldn't come.
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Advance to Venturi vacuum.
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Wagon master. Won't be near car again until Tuesday. I'll try to collect that info.
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Working on a 140 with Holley 2bbl carb.it has the usual flat spot, hesitation issues, but the big problem is the idle. You can adjust it to stay running and it idles too fast. Try to lower it and it goes too low and stalls. Innards of this engine are unknown, but, has a hot cam. These are the things I've checked: Compression Float level Vacuum leaks Has correct distributor, initial ti
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It's not the number, it's the attitude. I've been a Geezer for years now.
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Love the car, but, in my opinion; taillights......ugh! Enjoy!
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Just an update to set the record straight. Balancer was not a new one from Clark's, but, a rebuilt one from Corvair Ranch. Jeff will make good, but, now have a new one from Clark's.
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I personally viewed the car a couple months ago. Good solid car with tasteful updates. Recommend it.
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That's what mine does; twerks a bit.
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This morning I went out to the shop and reinstalled distributor cap. Engine started and idled well. I then checked for the alignment marks on the balancer. They seemed about 1/4" off. used dots of white paint to mark them. Hooked up timing light. Saw timing Mark at about 12 degrees advance and then disappeared. Then with timing light saw Mark traveling clockwise around the pulley. Checked al
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Great fix, Dave
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Ok. Engine has been running, however, with bogging and misfire. I can see the timing mark on the balancer that lines up with the cast in tag on the rear cover. The mark I cannot find is the one on the inner hub that tells you if the balancer is starting to move or come apart. After running the engine, I Aligned the timing notch on the pulley with 0 on the cover. Instead of the rotor pointing a #
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I had originally re-indexed the distributor because vacuum can did not have enough clearance( arm #248). Engine won't run with sheared distributor gear roll pin. (No oil pressure.) My thought at the time is brand new balancer with five miles on it is failing. Need to check further tomorrow.
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Just went out and tried to bring timing up to number one tdc. Rotor 1/4 turn out. Could new balancer be no good? Separating.
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New balancer, correct vacuum port, checked advance unit. Don't remember number, but, 140 stick. Carb adjusted and floats checked. Originally there wasn't even a vacuum hose present for advance.
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I'm working on a 1965 140 HP. The innards of this engine are unkown to me, but, it sure sounds as though it has a high performance cam. It's also equipped with a center mounted Holley performance two barrel. The issue: hesitation and stumbling. I know these are noted for this due to lack of manifold heat, but, the seems excessive and I'm having a timing issue. Has new plugs, po
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