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Re: Returning to my Corvair
Posted by: geomuck ()
Date: August 05, 2018 06:49PM

Right, I thought about that AFTER I took them out smiling bouncing smiley

I blasted the stuck one with some penetrating fluid; hopefully next weekend It'll be a little more cooperative.

George Murnock
1967 Corvair Monza convertible 140/4, owned since August 2013
Near Boulder, Colorado



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Re: Returning to my Corvair
Posted by: JimBrandberg ()
Date: August 08, 2018 08:17AM

Sometimes I heat the head adjacent to the stud with a propane torch to help it come out. If you keep pressure on the wrench with one hand while heating with the other it will all of a sudden start to turn.
I heated both heads up on an engine yesterday to get the short studs to go in. One was 1 5/8 and the other was 1 3/4. I like 1 7/16 protruding on the short stud and 4" on the long one. Too much stud sticking out maybe means not enough thread engagement in the aluminum.
I pull the long studs all the time but usually leave the short ones if they're correct. Too much potential for disaster with those threads that are "down in the valley".
You also need to be careful about too much torch heat. The entire head will get hot, not just where you're working. Aluminum is amazing that way.

I like your method of keeping at it here and there when you can. Pretty soon you will be done and a big chunk of time can be difficult to find.

Jim Brandberg
Isanti, MN
CorvairRepair.com

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Re: Returning to my Corvair
Posted by: geomuck ()
Date: August 08, 2018 09:28AM

Thanks Jim!

When heating the head: did you do it from underneath, or on top?

George Murnock
1967 Corvair Monza convertible 140/4, owned since August 2013
Near Boulder, Colorado



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Re: Returning to my Corvair
Posted by: JimBrandberg ()
Date: August 08, 2018 09:57AM

To the side of where the stud is. On the long stud on the outside of the projection where it lives. On the short stud on the flat surface parallel to the stud towards the center of the engine, maybe a little down in the carburetor port. The idea is to expand the aluminum surrounding the stud without heating the stud itself. Propane is not as hot as oxy/acetylene and thus more gentle. I only use heat when the double nuts want to turn together without the stud turning.

Jim Brandberg
Isanti, MN
CorvairRepair.com

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Re: Returning to my Corvair
Posted by: geomuck ()
Date: August 08, 2018 09:58AM

Thank you very much -- that's exactly what's happening on that last one. I'll give that a go this weekend!

If I can't get it, I'll just move on to other disassembly and come back to it when it's the last thing left cool smiley

George Murnock
1967 Corvair Monza convertible 140/4, owned since August 2013
Near Boulder, Colorado



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Re: Returning to my Corvair
Posted by: geomuck ()
Date: August 12, 2018 12:32PM

Making good progress. I used a heat gun on the last remaining carb stud, and it came out without too much effort, so that's good. Then I removed the coil and its mounting bracket, all the top bolts for the right-side shroud, the bottom engine shroud, and the exhaust manifold and muffler/tailpipe. I also drained the oil (the chassis manual said to do that).

With everything in plain view, I can now understand some things people I've read about "push rod tubes" smiling smiley

I think that next weekend I should be able to pull the head. Wish me luck!

Exposed!

Proceed in an orderly fashion...

George Murnock
1967 Corvair Monza convertible 140/4, owned since August 2013
Near Boulder, Colorado



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Re: Returning to my Corvair
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: August 12, 2018 12:40PM

You'll get it!





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Re: Returning to my Corvair
Posted by: geomuck ()
Date: August 12, 2018 01:40PM

Thanks Matt! I definitely will. Then we'll see what's happening in there...

George Murnock
1967 Corvair Monza convertible 140/4, owned since August 2013
Near Boulder, Colorado



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