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Re: New Project: '64 Monza Coupe, 110hp 4spd
Posted by: kcjengr ()
Date: May 15, 2018 08:29PM

Oh, I don't have to pull the whole power pack to remove the head, thats great!

Thanks Matt!



Kurt J.
Atlanta, Ga
"Drove my chevy to the levee but the levee was dry ..."

'64 Monza Coupe 110hp 4spd

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Re: New Project: '64 Monza Coupe, 110hp 4spd
Posted by: kcjengr ()
Date: May 16, 2018 09:29PM

In a previous post I mentioned that the starter seemed weak.
what I did not mention is that it also makes an unbelievable amount of noise.
Well, this evening I decided to see what was going on.

Turns out the rear rotor bearing was shot. It was completely dry and the bronze bushing and shaft had worn significantly.
The noise was caused by the rotor rattling around between the field windings. Ouch!

I think the rotor and field windings are salvageable, at least for the time being.
The commutator is slightly damaged, but nothing that a light skim cut on the lathe won't fix.
I will try to clean up the scored end of the rotor shaft and scrounge up some bronze to make a new bearing.
Oddly enough, the rotor does not have center holes, so it is gong to be a bit of a challenge chucking it accurately.

Bearing has seen better days.


Note discolored end on rotor shaft due to heat.




Kurt J.
Atlanta, Ga
"Drove my chevy to the levee but the levee was dry ..."

'64 Monza Coupe 110hp 4spd

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Re: New Project: '64 Monza Coupe, 110hp 4spd
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: May 16, 2018 09:37PM

You'll get it!





MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
..............................110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

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Re: New Project: '64 Monza Coupe, 110hp 4spd
Posted by: kcjengr ()
Date: May 17, 2018 01:25PM

Made a new bearing for the starter from a some 1/2" type L copper pipe.
The pipe had the correct 5/8" OD, so I just had to bore the ID to 9/16".
Copper is not an ideal bearing material, but it should get me by till I get a new starter.

Old and new bearings.


I also skimmed 4 thou off the commutator to clean it up.


The engine now cranks over MUCH faster and very quietly.

An easy fix for once!



Kurt J.
Atlanta, Ga
"Drove my chevy to the levee but the levee was dry ..."

'64 Monza Coupe 110hp 4spd

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Re: New Project: '64 Monza Coupe, 110hp 4spd
Posted by: MoxyRamone ()
Date: May 17, 2018 05:22PM

You're doing some good work! I think it's cool that you are so positive. It's easy to get defeated sometimes, but I feel like you rarely get down in the dumps. Keep up the good work and keep posting! It's great to have another MacGyver on the scene. We work with what we have.

John Carver
Landrum, South Carolina

1964 Monza Convertible

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Re: New Project: '64 Monza Coupe, 110hp 4spd
Posted by: 66vairman ()
Date: May 17, 2018 05:48PM

If you use Rustoleum to paint the floors, first spray Rustoleums RED OXIDE rusty metal primer (it works fine on clean metal). Let it dry at least three days then cover with Rustoleum gloss. The RED OXIDE primer is VERY durable. I also use it on the suspension parts. Even when I get paint chips the primer remains in place on the metal.

If nobody suggested it - put a generic metal can fuel filter between the old cruddy gas tank and fuel pump. A fellow in our club paid for rebuilt carburetors and the then run gas straight from the old cruddy fuel tank and the carburetors plugged up again.

64's are great cars, enjoy.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/17/2018 05:55PM by 66vairman.

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Re: New Project: '64 Monza Coupe, 110hp 4spd
Posted by: kcjengr ()
Date: May 17, 2018 09:29PM

Thanks John! It is easy to get discouraged when working on a project like this.
The number of little things that need fixing can really become overwhelming, and it seems the list just keeps growing!
I think it helps that I am a mechanical/nuclear engineer by training, and write software for a hobby, so I am used to starting from scratch the majority of the time.
So with the Corvair I tend to see each part that is there and working as something that is already done, rather than seeing the parts that need repair as something that requires additional work to fix.

I was only recently introduced to working on cars when a good friend and neighbor passed away last fall, leaving a 1959 Austin Healey "bugeye" Sprite in mid restor.
His widow asked me to help her finish it up (it was her car), and that was the first automotive work I had ever done.
I find restoration very relaxing, since all I have to do it put back what was there, and I am under no pressure to come up with something new!

Also, I have a feeling cars are like software, they are never done, they just get to a point where they are more or less abandoned (from a development point of view).



Kurt J.
Atlanta, Ga
"Drove my chevy to the levee but the levee was dry ..."

'64 Monza Coupe 110hp 4spd

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Re: New Project: '64 Monza Coupe, 110hp 4spd
Posted by: kcjengr ()
Date: May 17, 2018 09:43PM

66vairman, Thanks for the tips on the red oxide primer.
I need to go shopping, I have quite a list now!

The fuel filter is a good idea. There is a lot of junk in the line, and I am surprised it has not clogged up the fuel pump or carbs yet.
Do you have a suggestion for a good place to put the fuel filter?

The fuel line is so badly rusted in places I think I will need to replace the whole thing sooner rather than later.
I am trying to decide if the increased longevity of using stainless warrants the extra cost and labor if I bend up a new one myself ...
I guess same goes for the break lines.
The lazy/frugal in me keeps saying "the original steel lines lasted 50yrs ...".



Kurt J.
Atlanta, Ga
"Drove my chevy to the levee but the levee was dry ..."

'64 Monza Coupe 110hp 4spd

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Re: New Project: '64 Monza Coupe, 110hp 4spd
Posted by: kcjengr ()
Date: May 17, 2018 09:57PM

And, last post for the day ...

The accelerator linkage was very sloppy. I traced it down to the crank near left rear swing arm.
The pivot that apparently was supposed to be an integral part of the crank had somehow broken free.
A few shocking experiments later with the HF wire welder and the accelerator action was MUCH improved.
Another easy fix! Lets hope my luck holds.





Kurt J.
Atlanta, Ga
"Drove my chevy to the levee but the levee was dry ..."

'64 Monza Coupe 110hp 4spd

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Re: New Project: '64 Monza Coupe, 110hp 4spd
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: May 17, 2018 10:15PM

Great progress!





MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
..............................110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

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Re: New Project: '64 Monza Coupe, 110hp 4spd
Posted by: kcjengr ()
Date: May 18, 2018 09:33AM

I have been working on cleaning up the interior here and there as I have time.
I have all the mouse and rat houses removed and all the old carpet pulled out.
Also chipped out as much of the old dried out tar body sealer as I could.
Feels (and smells) much better inside now. I think next I am going to try and fix the floors.

The front floors had old Clark's(?) fiberglass pans riveted down. I think they just held water and made the rust worse ...
The rear floor and wells under the seat where painted with red oxide primer during the late 80s "restoration", and surprisingly the rust has not really progressed since then.
The paint is still intact on the upper surface and warping around thru the rust holes to the bottom.
Speaks good of whatever paint was used!

Front right after removing driver side fiberglass pan


Front and drivers side after wire brushing
(Note the brake fluid from leaky master cylinder. It helps strip the tar body sealer smoking smiley)


The back seat area, with the wells rusted out from standing water.
Again, I don't think this has progressed much if at all since the 80s


The floors are in rough shape, but thankfully the inner and outer rockers are extremely solid with basically no rust at all.

Who ever did the last restoration thought it was OK to leave the floors like this (and he might be justified since they lasted 30 more years), but I can't do that. so time for new floors.

I looked at the Clark's floors in Helen, and they are very nice, but very pricey.
As far as I know, nobody makes replacement wells for under the rear seat, so even if I got the Clark's pans I would still have to fab those.
And the wells look like they will be the hardest to make, the floors are pretty much flat, with a few beads here and there.

So, I am going to attempt to make new floors myself.
In the worst case I give up and buy the Clark's pans, and I am just out my time and a few dólares for sheet metal.

I am trying to decide what gauge I should use, 18 or 20?
In someways I would think 18 is easier to work with since it won't burn thru as easily when welding, but it is harder to shape.

Any recommendation? The original floors seem like they are about 22 guage, so either should be stiff enough.

Thanks all!

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Re: New Project: '64 Monza Coupe, 110hp 4spd
Posted by: kcjengr ()
Date: May 18, 2018 09:46AM

Just talked to my brother. HE painted the floors with the red primer in 2008.
I did not realize he ever had the interior out that far.
That makes much more since, given what I am seeing.

Still, that probably saved what was left of the floor!



Kurt J.
Atlanta, Ga
"Drove my chevy to the levee but the levee was dry ..."

'64 Monza Coupe 110hp 4spd

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: New Project: '64 Monza Coupe, 110hp 4spd
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: May 18, 2018 10:33AM

While the interior is out...

Close the car up and spray with hose liberally and look for leaks!

Cowl seam is most likely leaking..





MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
..............................110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

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Re: New Project: '64 Monza Coupe, 110hp 4spd
Posted by: aircooled62 ()
Date: May 18, 2018 03:42PM

Everything you've done so far looks good. As far as filling the holes. Make sure you "weld" up any holes as filling in pin holes with filler can let moisture in through the back of the panel releasing the hold of the filler to the panel. Love those early's. Keep those pics coming

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