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Morse Cable Accelerator Linkage
Date: March 06, 2018 01:04PM

A few months ago, I bought a 1965 Monza coupe that has a four-barrel carburetor instead of the four single barrels. The factory accelerator linkage – with its two, count them, two bell cranks – was just not getting the job done. Sometimes it felt right, and other times it felt stiff and then changed abruptly. After some reflection, I decided to “reengineer” the accelerator linage using a push-pull Morse Cable, but I did not want to make any irreversible modifications to the linkage in case my idea didn’t work, or a subsequent owner wanted to restore the linkage to original. It was fortunate that I decided to modify the linkage because when I dropped the tunnel pan, I found that the clutch cable was frayed. I removed all the accelerator linkage aft of the first bell crank in the tunnel, and set those aside, but I kept the accelerator rod and the first bell crank intact.

The best find of this modification was a pair of Harley clutch/brake cable holders that attach to the Harley forks. The forks are the same size as the Corvair shift tube, so the clamps worked well to provide a support for the Morse Cable. I did need to modify the Harley clamps by expanding one of the holes in each of them to 3/8” - the OD of the #3 Morse Cable. The clamps are shown in the attached photos. I needed to make a bracket for the carburetor end of the Morse Cable, and I was able to use the existing carburetor bracket as a pattern and add a perch for the end of the Morse Cable. The new bracket is shown in the photos.

To operate the Morse Cable, I affixed an “L” bracket (actually a corner brace with holes in it) to the factory accelerator rod and put the end of the Morse Cable through the hole in the “L” bracket. This leaves the factory accelerator rod intact and uses the bell crank to keep the rod aligned. After some adjustments, I found that the “loud pedal” operated the carburetor smoothly and consistently.

The project is not yet finished, as you can see from the photos, but I will make some block-off plates, install the new clutch cable, and button it up.

Attachments:


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Re: Morse Cable Accelerator Linkage
Posted by: moomba32 ()
Date: March 06, 2018 01:17PM

Good stuff, Morse holds up well in salt water environments too in case you go amphibious.

Don Marlowe
66 Monza 2Dr 140/pg
64 Spyder convertible now, 110/pg
Eutawville SC

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Re: Morse Cable Accelerator Linkage
Posted by: azdave ()
Date: March 06, 2018 01:36PM

My Toro V8 uses two of those cables. One for shifting and one for the accelerator. They kind of meander their way around the chassis but they work great. I use Velcro One-wrap ties all along the cable path to keep them out of harms way and to make it easy to unhook them as needed for maintenance or cleaning. Only the beginning and end points are hard mounted to brackets.






Dave W. / Gilbert Arizona
66 Corsa 140 4-speed w/factory A/C
66 Corsa 140 4-speed w/factory A/C
66 Corsa 140 4-speed
65 Corsa 140 4-speed
66 Corsa 455 Toro V8
65 Monza 455 Toro V8
65 Monza 110 Convertible
65 Monza 4DR 140 PG w/factory A/C
65 Monza 4DR EJ20T w/5-speed




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Re: Morse Cable Accelerator Linkage
Posted by: DAVECS1 ()
Date: March 06, 2018 05:05PM

Hmm this gives me some ideas for my cable linkage, thanks for the post.

1964 Monza Convertible
110 4 speed
Peoria, IL

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Re: Morse Cable Accelerator Linkage
Posted by: jmaechtlen ()
Date: March 06, 2018 09:37PM

Last I looked, it seemed like that kind of throttle cable was pretty expensive.
What did you actually get, and where?

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Re: Morse Cable Accelerator Linkage
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: March 06, 2018 09:55PM

Morse and Morse style cables 14 ft steering cable $25

You need to watch what type of ends you get

[www.ebay.com]





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Re: Morse Cable Accelerator Linkage
Posted by: j3m ()
Date: March 07, 2018 12:15AM

Plenty of the many advertisers/major parts suppliers on the West Coast that have ads every month in HOT VW's magazine and VW Trends magazine carry all types of MORSE CABLES, as they are a fixture with those that build VW powered sandrails and desert crawlers as well as high speed off-road race machines.
They aren't costly. They are relatively inexpensive.

The most important thing is that you adapt the cable to function flawlessly with your existing set up.
Whatever you do, however you do get it done, enough cannot be said for 'quality engineering' meaning logical, sound construction, location/route, mount, connection point, springs etc.
Don't do it like a very drunk British Leyland engineer might have ,back in 1972.

They design that the original poster has shown here is looking really good.

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Re: Morse Cable Accelerator Linkage
Posted by: vairmech ()
Date: March 07, 2018 05:05AM

You will find that if you use a lighter spring in the rear and another spring in the front the action will be even smoother and lighter! You will have to fabricate the front spring holder but it looks like you can handle that.

This also is true for you FC owners that put a barn door spring on the throttle cable in the back and then can't push the throttle open. Put a light spring in the rear like is supposed to be there then put the barn door spring up front and you will get a smooth operation using a cable.

Ken Hand
Handy Car Care
248 613 8586

Vairmech@aol.com

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Re: Morse Cable Accelerator Linkage
Date: March 07, 2018 06:24AM

jmaechtlen Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Last I looked, it seemed like that kind of
> throttle cable was pretty expensive.
> What did you actually get, and where?

This was a new 7' Morse Cable that I bought on ebay for $28.50 with free shipping. The pair of Harley cable clamps was $9.99 on ebay with free shipping.

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Re: Morse Cable Accelerator Linkage
Date: March 07, 2018 06:34AM

vairmech Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You will find that if you use a lighter spring in
> the rear and another spring in the front the
> action will be even smoother and lighter! You will
> have to fabricate the front spring holder but it
> looks like you can handle that.
>
> This also is true for you FC owners that put a
> barn door spring on the throttle cable in the back
> and then can't push the throttle open. Put a light
> spring in the rear like is supposed to be there
> then put the barn door spring up front and you
> will get a smooth operation using a cable.

I was toying with the idea of putting a light spring on the bell crank as a backup. It would be easy to do but difficult to replace.

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Re: Morse Cable Accelerator Linkage
Posted by: Phil Dally ()
Date: March 07, 2018 07:17AM

I used the bell crank inside the tunnel to actuate the Morse cable on my racecar.

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Re: Morse Cable Accelerator Linkage
Posted by: vairmech ()
Date: March 07, 2018 11:40AM

With the below if you keep the spring at the rear cover area it would not be that hard. How often do you think you would need to change it????? LOL

Ken H


BorondaFarmRacing Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> vairmech Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > You will find that if you use a lighter spring
> in
> > the rear and another spring in the front the
> > action will be even smoother and lighter! You
> will
> > have to fabricate the front spring holder but
> it
> > looks like you can handle that.
> >
> > This also is true for you FC owners that put a
> > barn door spring on the throttle cable in the
> back
> > and then can't push the throttle open. Put a
> light
> > spring in the rear like is supposed to be there
> > then put the barn door spring up front and you
> > will get a smooth operation using a cable.
>
> I was toying with the idea of putting a light
> spring on the bell crank as a backup. It would be
> easy to do but difficult to replace.

Ken Hand
Handy Car Care
248 613 8586

Vairmech@aol.com

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