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Re: Questions for the A/C Crowd
Posted by: Timothy Shortle ()
Date: February 04, 2018 02:01PM

Condenser location is unrelated to drier location. The drier is the last system component before the expansion valve. The EV is the separation of the high pressure/low pressure sides of the system. The compressor is the other point they separate. The line between the compressor and the drier is the semi liquid line, between the drier and the EV is the liquid line. There is a tube at the bottom of the sight glass that picks up refrigerant from the bottom of the drier. Of course all of this is unrelated to the original topic questions.

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Re: Questions for the A/C Crowd
Posted by: toytron ()
Date: February 05, 2018 06:46PM

As has been mentioned by others.
1. You do not need to see the sight glass when you are using gauges and are going on temperature and pressure which is the proper way to do it.

2. You can place the dryer in either the front(trunk) or rear(engine compartment) as long as it is between the condenser and the compressor.

However I would think that you would want it closest to the piece of equipment that it is designed to protect and that being the compressor. By placing it in the trunk you have not done anything wrong but you also must consider the length of line between the condenser and compressor as something that could contribute to possible contamination. Just my two cents.

Btw you should be placing the taps for your gauges closest to the input to the compressor "low side" and the output of the condenser to properly measure for "superheat" and "subcooling".



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/05/2018 06:50PM by toytron.

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Re: Questions for the A/C Crowd
Posted by: Frank DuVal ()
Date: February 05, 2018 07:29PM

Quote
rnch
still had occasional "foam" in the trunk mounted sight glass.

This is correct! As the compressor cycles on and off slight bubbles should be seen in the sight glass at compressor shut off after a few seconds pass.

Having occasional foam while the compressor is running means you are on the edge of correct and slightly low. No worries.

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA

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Re: Questions for the A/C Crowd
Posted by: bgriffith ()
Date: February 05, 2018 07:47PM

toytron Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> 2. You can place the dryer in either the
> front(trunk) or rear(engine compartment) as long
> as it is between the condenser and the
> compressor.
>

For clarification, the receiver/drier must be installed on the liquid refrigerant line between the condenser and the evaporator.

The device does two things. It removes a small amount of moisture from liquid refrigerant that circulates through it. It also acts as a reservoir of liquid refrigerant being delivered to the expansion valve.

Expansion valve (and cooling) performance drop off dramatically with a combination of gas AND liquid refrigerant going into it.

Britt Griffith
Corona, CA
---------------
65 110 Coupe

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Re: Questions for the A/C Crowd
Posted by: 66vairman ()
Date: February 05, 2018 10:39PM

bgriffith Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> toytron Wrote:
> --------------------------------------------------
> -----
> > 2. You can place the dryer in either the
> > front(trunk) or rear(engine compartment) as
> long
> > as it is between the condenser and the
> > compressor.
> >
>
> For clarification, the receiver/drier must be
> installed on the liquid refrigerant line between
> the condenser and the evaporator.
>
> The device does two things. It removes a small
> amount of moisture from liquid refrigerant that
> circulates through it. It also acts as a reservoir
> of liquid refrigerant being delivered to the
> expansion valve.
>
> Expansion valve (and cooling) performance drop off
> dramatically with a combination of gas AND liquid
> refrigerant going into it.

Correct with the Covair regulated expansion valve. With the newer fixed orific systems it gets even more complicated.

As already stated, the viewing port is completely useless on anything other than R12. While R12 prices have dropped a lot, you need a tech. license to buy it (not that difficult) and most shops dumped there R12 equipment years ago. I went with R134 and it works fine IF YOU USE GAUGES to monitor HI/LO pressure and evaporator temps. The old simple sight glass process is useless with R134a.

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Re: Questions for the A/C Crowd
Posted by: joelsplace ()
Date: February 06, 2018 01:44PM

Where are you seeing R12 prices down? I'm seeing double and triple what they were last year. Last year I saw 30lbs for $300-$360 and now I'm seeing $600-$900.

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Re: Questions for the A/C Crowd
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: February 06, 2018 01:50PM

Just looked on ebay..... $400 range

For R12 .... Propane sure makes sense..





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Re: Questions for the A/C Crowd
Posted by: 66vairman ()
Date: February 06, 2018 03:09PM

joelsplace Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Where are you seeing R12 prices down? I'm seeing
> double and triple what they were last year. Last
> year I saw 30lbs for $300-$360 and now I'm seeing
> $600-$900.

Opps - My last look at prices was about four years ago. Wow prices have gone up! Makes me glad I went the R134a route.

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Re: Questions for the A/C Crowd
Posted by: Timothy Shortle ()
Date: February 06, 2018 05:16PM

I bought 10 14oz. cans for $125 last year at the PS Toss. Didn't even need to show my EPA refrigerant license. Occasionally when I am in the market I find it on Craigs for a good deal. The newest car I work on that uses R12 is 1992. Not much demand for it which is why price has come way down.

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Re: Questions for the A/C Crowd
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: February 06, 2018 05:38PM

Way down??? in the early 90'sI'd buy cans of R12 for 99 cents! LOL!!





MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
..............................110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

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Re: Questions for the A/C Crowd
Posted by: Frank DuVal ()
Date: February 06, 2018 07:39PM

Yes, but it went from 99 cents a can in the 80s to $30 a can by 1999. This is because no retailer had them by then.

I was buying 30 lb R-12 cans for $175 when Advance Auto was reducing ther inventory because of the new inventory rules (tax on excess inventory of R-12 to eliminate hoarding by stores of old stock). This was about 1994. The last 30 lb can I bought in 1996 was $600! But we needed it to repair AC on cars from front end collisions. Still lots of pre 1994 cars being repaired then, and no need to drain/flush/kits/etc for change over to R-134. Try to get insurance company to pay for that stuff!grinning smiley

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA

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