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Re: starting problem, including clues
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: December 27, 2017 02:05PM

Back to the fuel possibly being the problem;

On FC's the rubber line to the top of the tank is a very likely suspect.

Fuel tank must be removed to replace ...as I recall. So it's never done as "maintenance".





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Re: starting problem, including clues
Posted by: hootsk ()
Date: December 27, 2017 05:13PM

Those little ports could easily be gummed up. The carbs were replaced about a year ago, and the van has sat outside since then only being driven sporadically, once a month or so. If it matters, the gas in the tank is from an ethanol-free station.

The tank and sending unit are new, and the flexible lines are new Gates Barricade. I wasn't sure what I was doing, so I brazed in a bung with a brass screw plug on a lower corner in case I needed to drain the tank for quick removal in the future.

The coil is a Pertronix Flamethrower II. I'll get a standard coil from Clark's with a new set of points and condenser at the same time I get a new pump.

" ... the voltage drop across a resistor only happens when current is flowing" — that's news to me. This van did have a resistor wire in it that measured ~6V at the end with the key on. What I did was cut the wire back and splice in a new section of the same gauge, measuring the voltage at the end of the wire until I got 12V. A section of the wire closest to the coil was slightly thicker with a different texture than the rest, and I assumed this was the resistor part. But this suggests to me I was measuring the voltage incorrectly. Should I be measuring the voltage at the coil with the wire connected to the (-) terminal with the key on and the points closed?

Is there a way I can drop the voltage to the standard coil to 6V without changing the wire?

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Re: starting problem, including clues
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: December 27, 2017 05:47PM

Looks like you have covered most!!

Yes measure when points are closed...

BUT with Pet II 12vdc all the time is OK.... and a 6 volt coil [ less than 1.3 ohms primary resistance wouldn't overheat for several minutes...





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Re: starting problem, including clues
Posted by: Frank DuVal ()
Date: December 27, 2017 05:47PM

Stock coil and points need the resistor for long point life.

Once you go to aftermarket coil and Pertronix, you do not necessarily need the resistor. Lots of different permutations now. Different coils call for same / different or no resistor.

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA

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Re: starting problem, including clues
Posted by: joelsplace ()
Date: December 27, 2017 10:42PM

Yes you can add a resistor at the coil if needed. Lots of cars used them instead of the resistor wire including '62-'63 Spyders IIRC.

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Re: starting problem, including clues
Posted by: hootsk ()
Date: December 28, 2017 03:19PM

Like this?

[www.amazon.com]

This one says it's for a International tractor, but it seems nice to have the resistor held in the coil bracket.

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Re: starting problem, including clues
Posted by: joelsplace ()
Date: December 28, 2017 03:24PM

That's it. If you bought that one hopefully the coil and resistor would be matched too.

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Re: starting problem, including clues
Posted by: hootsk ()
Date: December 29, 2017 09:08AM

What do you mean by “matched”?

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Re: starting problem, including clues
Posted by: joelsplace ()
Date: December 29, 2017 10:07AM

Coils have different resistances so if you want 6V at the coil then the resistor would have to be the right value to provide that. Basically the resistor has to be the same value as the inductive resistance of the coil to halve the voltage. If the resistor is a higher value then more voltage will be dropped across it than the coil and you will have less than 6V at the coil.
All that being said I don't know that it matters enough to worry about. I think I've heard that a 6V coil actually runs about 8V normally. Your 12V system will usually run about 13.5-14V. With the coil it's a balance to get enough energy to reliably fire the plugs without burning the points or overheating the coil.
To check the voltage at the coil be sure the points are closed when you measure it. If they are open you should read battery voltage.

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Re: starting problem, including clues
Posted by: Chilly Willy ()
Date: December 29, 2017 12:45PM

if it ran good before it sat, i'd keep at the fuel side. that's what doesn't like to be sitting around.
a lot of people like the pertronix. I would look at that last.

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Northern California

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