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Wire split/splice/tap
Posted by: owen ()
Date: October 25, 2017 11:55AM

Wherever a single source wire needed to supply two or more destinations, Ultra used either scotchloks or multiple wires stuffed into both ends a butt crimp connector. The overstuffed butt connectors didn't work out so well, but surprisingly the scotchloks have held up. That doesn't excuse them though.

Throughout the internet I see lots of recommendations to strip & solder, weird star-shaped crimp terminals, improved wire nuts, and other options, but I've got to wonder - how did/does GM do it?

Safe travels,
Owen
UV500



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/25/2017 12:02PM by owen.

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Re: Wire split/splice/tap
Posted by: azdave ()
Date: October 25, 2017 01:03PM

Not necessarily GM but I've seen many OEM splices done with special crimps such as in the photo. I've also seen them stripped, over-lapped and then spot welded. All splices got simple tape wrap and some got split loom too for protection.




Dave W. / Gilbert Arizona
66 Corsa 140 4-speed w/factory A/C
66 Corsa 140 4-speed
65 Corsa 140 4-speed
66 Corsa 455 Toro V8
65 Monza 455 Toro V8
65 Monza 110 Convertible
65 Monza 4DR 140 PG w/factory A/C
65 Monza 4DR EJ20T w/5-speed




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Re: Wire split/splice/tap
Posted by: owen ()
Date: October 25, 2017 01:09PM

Similar: multiple wires into a single terminal.

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Re: Wire split/splice/tap
Posted by: cnicol ()
Date: October 25, 2017 01:21PM

Often, it's two wires crimped into a single terminal or butt connector. With high crimping pressure (enough to be air tight), the connection is corrosion resistant, electrically good, and mechanically strong.

Craig N. Coeur d'Alene ID.
66 Black Monza 4dr, 4.2L V8 49k
61 Seamist Jade Rampside 140 PG
60 Monza coupe (sold, sniff sniff)
66 Sprint Corsa convt - First car! Re-purchased 43 years later
2+2 gnatsuM 5691

+17 Tons of parts

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Re: Wire split/splice/tap
Posted by: owen ()
Date: October 25, 2017 01:26PM

That didn't work so well for my headlights. I guess it's just a quality issue though.

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Re: Wire split/splice/tap
Posted by: Frank DuVal ()
Date: October 25, 2017 02:22PM

Quality of use, not of the terminal! Those yellow terminals are rated for #12 to #10 AWG wire. If that is a #14 AWG, that could explain why the two in one side worked, and the single failed. Usually pull out failures are just not proper crimping, 90% of the time. Use the proper crimper and pull test each wire as you go. They will not usually fail later if you do this.

The number of failed Schotchlocks (and same suitcase style but other brands) I have removed is way over 100.eye popping smiley

Solder and heat shrink is always a good way to go, well, if one can solder properly!grinning smiley

Crimping faster than soldering, so most OEM splices are a crimp style.

When putting more than one wire into a terminal, or if the terminal is too big for your conductor, the AWG scale changes twice physical size (in area, not diameter) every three numbers. So, if the terminal is good for 12-10 AWG, and your wire is 14 AWG, fold it once. This is two # 14 wires, so it is like a # 11 AWG. Yes, odd numbers do exist! Got two #16 AWG wires into one terminal, that would be #13 AWG. Oops, that is between the 12-10 size and 16-14 size terminal, use the tightest one that fits!thumbs up

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA

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Re: Wire split/splice/tap
Posted by: CoCoCo ()
Date: October 25, 2017 04:53PM

Older Fords had a pretty slick (and very reliable) method of splicing multiple wires. They'd solder the bare strands together (or maybe it was that welding method mentioned?) and then cover the entire thing in molded rubber to seal out the rest of the world.
Any time I pulled a harness apart those splices were in as-new condition. Even after a major harness meltdown.

The wires themselves may have failed right up to the rubber "block" (or blob if you prefer) but things were in pretty tidy shape inside.

Paul

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Re: Wire split/splice/tap
Posted by: flamingchariots ()
Date: October 25, 2017 05:36PM

I think Frank alluded to the fact that it's frequently the expertise of the mechanic/installer that makes the difference between a quality job and one that's botched. You can use good products and mess them up if you don't really know what you're doing.

I've used literally thousands of scotchloks and never had a failure. I have run across already-been-used ones (which I would throw away); they don't hold.

If you don't start with the correct product, the correct length of stripped wire, and install correctly with ends even... they may fail.
BTW, 3M brand scotchloks needs to be tightened until they click. Other brands until you can't turn them any tighter.
Oh, and DON'T twist the wire together first when you use wirenuts (unless smaller than 18 awg)! They are not designed for that.

Kevin
Medina, OH



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/25/2017 05:37PM by flamingchariots.

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Re: Wire split/splice/tap
Posted by: vairmech ()
Date: October 25, 2017 05:42PM

I have taken apart a few Corvair harness and they do have soldered junctions in the harness when there are multiple, more than 2, connections.

Owen, you are not alone in how the harness in the Ultras look, I think you saw the pictures of mine.

Ken Hand
Handy Car Care
248 613 8586

Vairmech@aol.com

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Re: Wire split/splice/tap
Posted by: gregb ()
Date: October 25, 2017 06:33PM

When I used to work in Avionics we used what looked like a butt splice like the yellow things above but they were transparent had solder inside and we used a hi temp heat gun that would melt the solder, shrink the tube, and activate an adhesive that made the connection 100% electrically and mechanically. I haven't seen them in years but would imagine they are still out there someplace.

Gregb

Alberta Canada
61 Canadian Lakewood
62 Spyder Triple Black Convertible
65 Corsa Coupe

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Re: Wire split/splice/tap
Posted by: cnicol ()
Date: October 25, 2017 07:55PM

gregb Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> When I used to work in Avionics we used what
> looked like a butt splice like the yellow things
> above but they were transparent had solder inside
> and we used a hi temp heat gun that would melt the
> solder, shrink the tube, and activate an adhesive
> that made the connection 100% electrically and
> mechanically. I haven't seen them in years but
> would imagine they are still out there someplace.


They're "IN STOCK" at Craig's house! Yellow or Blue.grinning smiley

Craig N. Coeur d'Alene ID.
66 Black Monza 4dr, 4.2L V8 49k
61 Seamist Jade Rampside 140 PG
60 Monza coupe (sold, sniff sniff)
66 Sprint Corsa convt - First car! Re-purchased 43 years later
2+2 gnatsuM 5691

+17 Tons of parts

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