Here is something you don't see every day. I am stripping down the John Glenn 1964 Convertible in preparation for restoration. I was able to remove the top boot stainless trim without breaking off the ends!

Bill Hubbell,
President, Stock Corvair Group

It's a miracle!

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA

You hit the jackpot!

-Tom


63' Monza Spyder Convertable (in process) MY Build Thread
65' Monza MY Build Thread
73' NovaSS 454 Big block
86' BMW 325es
98' Dodge 2500 12v Cummins Diesel with 1200 lb torque!
98' VW Jetta TDI, for daughter
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NFCC
Grand Island, NY

When you reinstall leave out one of the clips, the second one from the end on each side. That will reduce the tension on the place they all break. It still stays in place just fine without these two clips (one on each side).

Nick
_______________________________________________________________________
1964 Monza Spyder Convertible #435 - Rotisserie restored - Check out my restoration thread here: [corvaircenter.com]
Recreational Mechanic/CORSA Member/COG Supporting Member/US Navy Veteran
Other fun car: 2004 Porsche 911 GT3 - Trailered track monster
Boring daily drivers
Northern Colorado, USA

The first snap at the forward end of both trim's is riveted to the trim piece.
I removed this snap and replaced it with a screw in snap, just like the one center rear on the trim. With this snap screwed to the body, all stress on the trim joining weld is eliminated. Only the most observant concourse judge would spot it!

Corventure Dave

corventure Dave Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The first snap at the forward end of both trim's
> is riveted to the trim piece.
> I removed this snap and replaced it with a screw
> in snap, just like the one center rear on the
> trim. With this snap screwed to the body, all
> stress on the trim joining weld is eliminated.
> Only the most observant concourse judge would spot
> it!
>
> Corventure Dave

Ha Ha,
Now that you advertised it, they all know what to look for now!

.
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WA. state, 1 mile south of the Canadian border,
I am not at the end of the world, but you can see it from here.
'66 Monza Coupe - 4spd, 140 Daily driver beater
'67 Monza Vert. - PG, 140 Daily driver beater
'67 A/C Moredoor Monza - 140 4-spd. driver

corventure Dave Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The first snap at the forward end of both trim's
> is riveted to the trim piece.
> I removed this snap and replaced it with a screw
> in snap, just like the one center rear on the
> trim. With this snap screwed to the body, all
> stress on the trim joining weld is eliminated.
> Only the most observant concourse judge would spot
> it!
>
> Corventure Dave

So I'm new to convertibles and I have a LM. Is it safe to assume this weak weld issue does not apply to LM trim?

The late model convertible pinch weld molding doesn't suffer from the same fate of cracked welds as the early models did. The LM is a one piece part.

I believe the Early trim was borrowed from the Pontiac Tempest.

Chevrolet shortened it to fit the Corvair and did a fusion weld, then polished the weld joint. There is one screw at the front of the trim on side and end tab. Then there is a clip after the weld.
Removing the top boot puts stress on the weld when pulling apart the first snap. This eventually cracks the weld.

Come 1965 and Late model Corvairs, this trim was made in one piece for the Corvair application.

Corventure Dave

As I remember, the 1964 parts were different and improved from the 1962-63 parts. I believe that the problems are with them.
Bob Helt

All the 64's I've worked on have the same seam and cracking rates as the 62/3 models. They may have improved the weld, but it is still there.

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA

Oh, the welds are definitely there and easily seen from the backside.

Bill Hubbell,
President, Stock Corvair Group