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Racing Wiring Harness
Posted by: BobV66Vair ()
Date: October 10, 2017 03:48PM

Thinking about what to use for my race cars wiring. It does not need most of the stuff a road car would have. What do you racers use in your cars? I can see the convenience of the prefab harness but also like the idea of all new block and wiring to only provide what is needed.

Bob Vinnacombe
Sandy, Oregon
1965 Corsa 140 stock
1966 Monza Soon to be race car
1968 Monza Parts for now

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Re: Racing Wiring Harness
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: October 10, 2017 04:13PM

That's the basis... just put in circuits for what you need...and route it as you deem the best way..





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Re: Racing Wiring Harness
Posted by: Phil Dally ()
Date: October 10, 2017 04:21PM

cnicol here has got to be the hook up for this.

[www.racersrods.com]

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Re: Racing Wiring Harness
Posted by: vairmech ()
Date: October 10, 2017 05:02PM

A lot of racers have lots of gauges but if you are really racing what do you have time to look at? I do have an oil temp and oil pressure but only for pre-race observations and maybe post race. I don't even have a head temp! I do have a pressure switch for the fan hooked to a pencil shift light right on top of the dash in my line of sight. I also have TWO oil pressure idiot lights. I also have a tach but again if you are looking at the tach for shifting you are not racing, I use a shift light set 200 rpm lower than my rev limiter. The starter is relay controlled as is the main power with the obligatory master cutoff switch. The relays are so I can use smaller wire front to back.

That is about as basic as you can get.

Ken Hand
Handy Car Care
248 613 8586

Vairmech@aol.com

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Re: Racing Wiring Harness
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: October 10, 2017 05:26PM

All I had on my Autocrosser / Street and offroad car was an Oil Idiot light and Voltmeter and tach [ to fill the hole! ]

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Re: Racing Wiring Harness
Posted by: Seth Emerson ()
Date: October 10, 2017 05:50PM

On the three full-up races cars I built, I laid out everything I would need on paper, just like the 1965 factory shop manual diagram. You can buy an easy mount, either on the floor or on a roll bar, combination switch panel and fuse block. As you lay out the diagram, be sure to consider the items that you will have to be able to remove to do maintenance, such as connectors to the motor. Ken notes that there are only some things you will have to know while you are racing. But there are a few, like his mentioned oil gauges, that should still be visible. Since I had replaced the dash, I added a fuel level gauge, running off the stock sender and a volt-meter, so I could tell the status of the battery charge. On my Camaro, these could be actuated by a momentary pushbutton, so I could check those, without turning on all of the power. Remember, all of the power in the car, excluding only a powered fire system, if used, must be switched by a compliantly located turn-off switch. Check your rulebook for possible locations. If you are running a charging system, "exciting" power to the alternator must also be cut. I will see if I can find one of those old circuit diagrams.

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Re: Racing Wiring Harness
Posted by: vairmech ()
Date: October 10, 2017 06:03PM

I did forget to mention that my "instrument panel" has 2 connectors for easy removal! I only have 1 20a fuse in the system, if any power is lost anywhere the relay opens and there is no more power to anything.

Ken Hand
Handy Car Care
248 613 8586

Vairmech@aol.com

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Re: Racing Wiring Harness
Posted by: JimBrandberg ()
Date: October 12, 2017 02:04PM

I made my own wiring harness. I like Spiral Wrap in 3' lengths. All I needed for lights were brakes. Don't foget accessible Main shutoff for corner workers if it's really a race car. I put the battery by the passenger's feet but negated the weight transfer when I switched to a dry cell battery. I put a tail light in the dash for a Generator light so I would know if the fanbelt came off. Two fuel pumps with two switches in case one failed. A switch to turn off the tach in case it started messing with the ignition. Oil pressure gauge at the engine and light at one of the front oil filters. Westach CHT for each head. I cut out the whole dash and just have an aluminum instument panel and a switch panel, close enough to reach with the harness on.
Jim Brandberg
Isanti, MN
CorvairRepair.com

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Re: Racing Wiring Harness
Posted by: BobV66Vair ()
Date: October 12, 2017 02:39PM

Thanks for the info Jim. I am building it to road race so it will have the shutoff switch. I am planning to run in a production class, likely D or C. I am still interpreting the rules so not yet sure if I will need all the glass and the lights. Warning lights will be up high for things like oil pressure and gen/fan. Half the fun is the work. Well, the small half anyway.

Bob Vinnacombe
Sandy, Oregon
1965 Corsa 140 stock
1966 Monza Soon to be race car
1968 Monza Parts for now

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Re: Racing Wiring Harness
Posted by: v8vair ()
Date: October 12, 2017 04:33PM

I keep the harness simple, no relays,high amp switches.
It's a good idea to have a fuel pressure gauge,temp and oil pressure.
Even during a race a quick glance at the gauges on the straight may save a motor or transaxle. My oil light comes on at 30lbs
In practice I always check the tach at the end of the straight for gearing.
Some how during a race you need to watch the flag stations, pay attention to your mirror, gauges,and where your going! Big Fun !
Mike

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Re: Racing Wiring Harness
Posted by: Seth Emerson ()
Date: October 12, 2017 07:38PM

Bob - I really recommend a pressure indicator for the plenum. It is so simple and will save the motor if you pay attention. A charging indicator will take a while if the alternator is spinning. When the air pressure drops, it is time to shut down the heat producer (the motor). Levair has a kit.

Seth Emerson

Check my new Performance Corvair Web site [www.perfvair.com]

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Re: Racing Wiring Harness
Posted by: v8vair ()
Date: October 13, 2017 04:52AM

Yes on the pressure indicator, I have one for the 64 even with the vertical fan.
Mike

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Re: Racing Wiring Harness
Posted by: Seth Emerson ()
Date: October 17, 2017 12:39AM

I had to chuckle when Jim Brandberg mention disconnecting the tach in case it started fooling with the ignition. Just after drivers school - back in 1975 - I installed a tach made by American Scientific. It was a local company, later sold to Mallory. They had to adjustable knobs on the front. One lit up a shift indicator at whatever RPM you pointed it to, the other limited the RPM at whatever RPM you chose. (see Photo) It worked fine - for a while. Then during a practice session the cutoff started shutting the motor down at a lower and lower RPM, finally the motor was being shut down at about 3000 RPM. I pulled off the distributor cap (stock-type distributor (this was 1975!) with Heavy-Duty Accel points, rotor and cap, tan colored. There was a thin coating of tan dust inside the dist. The little tab in the rotor, the one that located the rotor and turns it via the point cam, was wearing away in contact with the top of the shaft. The dust inside the distributor migrated to the points, so every time the points opened to fire the plug, a few extra jumps occurred from the dust between the points. The circuit in the tach read those as firings and started shutting down the motor. I added a disconnect switch! Like Jim - I have always had a way to disconnect any external RPM control.

Seth Emerson

Check my new Performance Corvair Web site [www.perfvair.com]

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Re: Racing Wiring Harness
Posted by: vairmech ()
Date: October 17, 2017 06:15AM

Mike, I have to laugh, relays are simple and cheaper than heavy wire and more reliable than high amp switches and you use less wire.

Keep in mind, I only have 2 relays. One main power relay up front and one for the starter in the back. The battery cable goes directly to the cutoff switch then the starter. The starter relay is the 40a sealed GM relay for the solenoid and only a single small wire goes up front as a ground for the starter button. Both relays run from a grounded control NOT power. That makes for shorter wire runs.

Ken Hand
Handy Car Care
248 613 8586

Vairmech@aol.com

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