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Blower housing
Posted by: Space Cowboy ()
Date: March 07, 2005 10:40AM

Bought some new carbs from Mr. Young for my '66 110, and now doing a little rebuilding before installing. I've had an oil leak for the past year... the only thing I've changed is the blower housing (after the bearing seized)... so I'm thinking I didn't do the job too well. I've already read the posts on recommended install/permatex/gaskets/etc.
A coupla questions...
1) When I took off the housing, I scraped the old gasket off and the surface on the housing looks pretty smooth, but looks like some grinding or sandpapering took place... I know this is a big No-No on the aluminum... could that be the leaking culprit? (Although I did not have a leaking issue before)...
2) Do I need to use loctite or antiseize on the bolts securing the housing?
3) I don't have a torque wrench(yet), is it critical for this, or is there a ROT for tightening?
4) Finally, does the fan bearing require any lube at all? It has been off now for 4 mos.

Thanks.

Re: Blower housing
Posted by: Larry Forman ()
Date: March 07, 2005 05:00PM

Hi Space,
1. I would generally recommend using some spray gasket adhesive remover after having placed some towels in the engine crank area. Just make DARN sure you remove them before replacing the engine top cover. This has been discussed a couple of times here and Chet posted some very good recommendations like using Gaskacinch and using studs to hold the top cover on. Try a search of this site for Gaskacinch or top cover for more details. There is a booklet by Fred Johnson about sealing up Corvair lubricant leaks with some good recommendations. $5 well spent, IMO. I use maybe 240 paper wetted by engine oil wrapped around a flat block and sand the top flat.
2. Blue Loctite is pretty much required along with the proper flange headed bolts.
3. My strong recommendation is to get even an inexpensive torque wrench so you do it right. Aluminum is pretty unforgiving. I generally take a tap and die set and chase the threaded holes and bolts before installing them to spec tightness. I also usually take a gun cleaning brush with solvent and clean afterwards and then a barrel cleaning cloth. Little squares of cloth on a thin slotted plastic rod and solvent to get the holes very clean. Then Blue Loctite. Gaskacinch on all the gasket surfaces and follow instructions to let dry first. Works well.
4. Fan bearing DEFINITELY requires lubing. Special tool sold by Corvair vendors. HUGE caution is to lube once or twice but NOT many times all at once. The fan cavity is small and you can easily blow this lower seal requiring reinstallation of the fan bearing and post. Several posts on this forum can be found by searching for lubing fan bearing.

-- Larry

Studs/Torque
Posted by: Harry Moore ()
Date: March 07, 2005 07:28PM

Like Chet and Larry said,
Studs and gaskacinch, and yes torque is important. Esp. how you torque it. Start from center then alternate sides working towards the front and rear.
Harry

Re: Blower housing
Posted by: Matt Nall ()
Date: March 07, 2005 07:34PM

Do what I did last week...leave the housing / fan OFF. start engine and LOOK!!!

Re: Blower housing
Posted by: Space Cowboy ()
Date: March 07, 2005 08:27PM

Thanks all!
Wouldn't leaving the cover off & running make a royal mess?
It would be interesting though.

Thanks again.

lAtE.

SC

Blower housing
Posted by: Steve O ()
Date: March 07, 2005 09:19PM

Blower cover, "turkey roaster", shroud....not the engine top cover that you are trying to get sealed up.

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