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rear sway bar
Posted by: ccvair ()
Date: February 26, 2005 11:30AM

does anybody make a rear sway bar for a early?

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em rear "anti"- sway bar?
Posted by: Steve O ()
Date: February 26, 2005 12:12PM

What are you trying to accomplish? See Bryan's autocross website in the links at left for some ideas.

For an em rear, you can always install a '64 suspension setup. Otherwise, a front bar alone might accomplish your handling wishes. Front bars are available - new, NOS, used - though you may have to change the lower a-arms and/or fab your own mounting brackets.

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Re: em rear "anti"- Roll bar?
Posted by: "UNSAFE" ()
Date: February 26, 2005 12:36PM

I think that technically it is not a sway bar or even an "anti-sway" bar,
but rather an anti-roll bar.

Lots of aftermarket bars in the speed catalogs that could be adapted to the vair.

A rear bar will increase oversteer, not that Vairs have a problem with oversteer. ggg

"UNSAFE"

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em rear "anti"- Roll bar?
Posted by: Steve O ()
Date: February 26, 2005 02:26PM

"...rear bar will increase oversteer..."

Therefore, the the usual recommendation for a front bar, in combination with some spring modifications (see Bryan's website). And I agree, "anti-roll" works better.... ;-)

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Re: rear sway bar
Posted by: ccvair ()
Date: February 26, 2005 02:38PM

what id like to do is controll the wheel jacking in the rear and I figured the rear bar would help.

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Re: EM wheel jacking
Posted by: Matt Nall ()
Date: February 26, 2005 03:38PM

At Bryans AX pages there's a link to Warren Leveques "Solo IS" articles [ now a book you can buy] .

To make it short and sweet SOFT springs..not stiff.......shorter shocks! [ they alone STOP the wheel jacking]

When it comes to antisway bars.....make your own out of tubular steel...it's springy!

Some like the "U" bars others the "Z" try them both and decide....it depends on YOUR driving style!

note: "U" bars are the most common....supported by the body at the base of the "U"...attached to the LCR's at the ends of the legs.

"Z"'s are [ looking at "Z"] from top left....attached to body .....top right...attached to pass. LCR....Bottom left.....attached to body...bottom right...attached to Drivers LCR...usually with a large urethane bushings.

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Re: rear sway bar
Posted by: steve goodman ()
Date: February 26, 2005 06:55PM

Hello all: For the rear use 64 traverse spring and short shocks as already stated. For the front use the large dia 65 bar and even add a second bar to the front. Use a size smaller tire dia in the front compared to the rear.
I use 185x70 F and 195x70 R. Also increase your air pressure in the rear, this will help stiffen the side wall. If you bounce your em and watch the sidewall of the tire you can see it move.

Heavy duty coils in the front will help also and you can add a second shock to the rear to keep the corking effect down.

Use bushings on top of the traverse spring as well as under it, it loads the spring and keeps it from moving on the bolt. On my car I have longer bolts with nylock nuts, I can move the nut downward and increase my negative camber for autox and then turn the nut back up and the camber is straight up for the street.

Also use an alternator and throw away the A/C compressor, you don't need any more weight hanging out the rear. Place the spare tire in the front and move the battery to the front also.

If you widen the rear wheel width and continue to experiment with tires and shocks and bars you can make an early handle as well as (or pretty darned close) to a late.

Oh, one more thing: when you enter a corner in an em and you feel the rear start to move out a bit you STAND on the loud pedal. This is the only way to keep the car moving straight. If you let off the gas and/or touch the brake pedal I promise the car will go around on you. This is a practiced driving style because the normal instinct is to slow down when the car gets loose. I also practice 'trail braking' which is left foot on the brake to settle the suspension before entering a corner. It puts the suspension down on the stops. I keep the rpm and/or boost up with my right foot at the same time. Obviously you need discs or at least metallic lines to do this very many times. Driving an early HARD is more effort than a late but lots more fun too.

Regards, Steve

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Re: rear sway bar
Posted by: Jim B. ()
Date: February 26, 2005 10:18PM

Amen to the suggestion in the previous post, if the rear gets twitchy, plant yer right foot. My first rule of driving is "when in doubt, GIVE GAS". it's worked good for over 45 years.
Jim

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Re: eliminating em jacking with extension spring
Posted by: Noah ()
Date: February 28, 2005 07:22AM

[autoxer.skiblack.com]
There is an article in there somewhere about adding an extension spring to a Devin. The spring hangs down from the "frame/body" to the suspension arm. Anyone ever try this in place of the 64 exchange for an EM? Sure seems simpler.
Noah.

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Re: eliminating em jacking with extension spring
Posted by: Rick Loving ()
Date: February 28, 2005 10:12PM

To recap some of the stuff above....When in doubt...Gun it out...

The rebound spring that Larry devised for his Devin C is a great idea in his application.

In 62 GM tried a similar idea with a rebound strap that hung slack with the suspension in normal range of travel but did not allow the suspension to travel too far. I figure a length of alum aircraft cabe looped around several times and clamped off would also work. Use stainless wire or nylon wire ties to keep it where you want it and out of harms way.

The best improvement for handling on the pre 64 rear end is wider/lower profile tires with enough air to keep the sidewalls firm and correct shocks that limit the amount travel for the suspension. To make things even a little better, add some spacers under the bottom mounts to reduce the travel even further. Both of these are covered in the Tech guide.

It also helps if your rear camber is not already positive, but either set at zero or even slight negative camber. This is controled by spring length alone, changing to shorter springs or cutting coils off your springs will change your rear camber more towards the negative.

A majority of pre-64 vairs sit with slight positive camber with a single driver to allow for the camber change due to the weight of passengers in the rear seat compressing the rear springs.

You can tell what your MAX suspension travel is by jacking the car up and looking at it from the rear. Keep in mind that this is without and lateral forces pushing the sidewall.

Rick Loving

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Re: eliminating em jacking with extension spring
Posted by: phil vanderoef ()
Date: March 03, 2005 03:58AM

All I can say is, I installed a complete '64 rear on my '63 Spyder convertible, its' great! Phil

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Re: eliminating em jacking with extension spring
Posted by: Chet Reed ()
Date: March 03, 2005 11:11AM

Phil,
I've swapped complete front and rear 1964 suspension components on all my early model Corvairs solely for increased stability and handling at high speeds and cornering. '64 suspension is a vast improvement over earlier Corvairs, not quite as good as '65 - '69 but close.

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'64 front also?
Posted by: Steve O ()
Date: March 03, 2005 11:29AM

Chet - why did you install the '64 front suspension? Because it had bar mounts already included? Couldn't you have just swapped the lower a-arms?

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Re: '64 front also?
Posted by: Chet Reed ()
Date: March 03, 2005 11:53AM

Yes, it's possible to swap just bottom front control arms and then add the stabilizer bar, but most earlier Corvair front suspensions do not have the provision for attaching stabilizer links.... no holes are drilled through cross member (exceptions are turbo cars and special orders). Another thing to consider, '64 front springs are a different rate than earlier cars. As far as I'm concerned, it's far more economical to obtain the entire '64 front suspension unit than to piecemeal something together.

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