Ken:

I posted info on the heads earlier. On page 4 you will find it. There were no comments about it, so we continued on with the project.

[corvaircenter.com]

Al
Georgia

On the left shroud, I have what looks like a hole torn into it. Can anyone tell me what should be there? I am thinking of having it welded up, if it is not needed.

Al
Georgia

Possible mangled hole from a copper braded ground strap screw. But I don't remember a strap anchored in that place. But who knows what a line worker or previous owner had on his mind!

Corventure Dave

Time to weld it up. I might put a 1/4 weld nut there just to have the extra shroud ground.

Al
Georgia

Been doing some cleaning and painting on the long pieces of shroud. Also cleaned and primed engine compartment.

Back is still hurting so extended standing or sitting is impacting work on all Vair and Camaro repairs. I wear out to easy due to the back and legs pain. I had steroid shots last Friday & yesterday, but things have not improved.

Al
Georgia

Bummer!

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
...............110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

We did paint the engine compartment at the last warm weather spell we had. It is now the original Fawn color.

Installed freshly painted fresh air duct. Installed a close out panel where the axle dipstick would enter the compartment. Installed PG dipstick boot, placard and the dipstick. Removed Pertronix setup and installed points plate.

Will be doing pushrod tube seals and valve adjustments tomorrow. Along with replacing the valve covers and gaskets.

Slow progress on the vehicle before it sells.

Al
Georgia

That is NOT fawn. Not even close.

Get off this post, tp. You, especially, are not wanted here to comment on stuff you know nothing about.

Al
Georgia

Alt-fact. AKA-rattlecan tan. Look'n sweet!😉

tp. you may use Wal-mart rattle can paint trying to match paint on your loady, but I have way more intelligence to buy Rustoleum to match paint on a vehicle.

Sorry but that is the original Fawn and was proven when we tried to remove slight overspray and we took off the PO's golden beige and found the same Fawn underneath.

Now go back and hide under you truck for the rest of the night like a bad little boy.

Al
Georgia

For those interested in where I got the 1964 OEM Fawn paint, it was at Automotivetouchup online

[www.automotivetouchup.com]

Microfinish LLC
208 Plauche Ct
New Orleans, LA 70123

Rattle cans or pre-mix ready for gun.

12 oz Aerosol Spray Paint, 1964 Chevrolet All Models: Fawn 5124 AER-BC $19.95

Not CHEAP.

Al
Georgia

Al,

It's too bad your not keeping the FC. My totally bias opinion is that once you get it running, you may want to keep it!

Of course my own personal preference has no bearing on this opinion!



Corventure Dave

Dave:

You could be right. I did enjoy driving it for the few miles I put on it but (there are those buts), it needs a better home that can take her further than I can.

I can get her running better than the previous owners and fix most of their poor repairs, but body work and paint are still big issue. I guess satin clear coat over what is there could be ok.

Anyway, we are about 3/4s of the way through push rod tube seals replacement and valve adjustment. Need to reseal #6 tubes, install rockers/push rods on 2, 3, 4, 6 and adjust #2, 3, 4, 6 valves. Then install repainted valve covers with new seals. There were Viton seals on this engine, but a couple had been nicked and were leaking.

After our vacation, we'll be able to install the lower shrouds.

Al
Georgia

Donna and I did quite a bit today on the Greenbrier today.

Completed installing Pushrod Tubes with new Viton seals. Adjusted valves. Installed Valve Covers with new gaskets.

Oil Filler/Delcotron Adapter installed with new Oil Filter. Oil Cap and new gasket installed. Adjustable Pulley installed.

Oil Pan removed. What a silicone nightmare. Also a sludge coating on bottom of pan. At least no metal bits. Cleaned off silicone and ensure pickup was clean. Installed Oil Pan with new gasket.

Oil Cooler Adaptor and Left Head Aft Shroud Panel installed. Folded Fin Oil Cooler installed with Viton seals.

Mechanical Fuel Pump (NOS) with fittings and o-ring installed.

This will be it for the next couple weeks. Time for a vacation.

(All parts installed previously cleaned and painted.)

A friend dropped by this evening and was impressed with the progress that he saw. That is the kind of encouragement (on site) that really helps move a project along.

Yup always a motivator when a friend comments!

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
...............110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

I have been working on the lower shrouds, cooling doors and thermostats and got stymied by a bad rod and missing clip. Will have to get those from CC.

The other item that is puzzling is the thermostat shield. The right shroud has the shield on the exhaust log side. However the left shroud the shield is drilled to mount to the block side of the shroud. Can anyone tell me if this is correct?

Also has anyone had good luck completely setting up the lower shroud and cooling box/door on the bench and installing it as an assembly?

This the end of my Vair work for the year.

Happy New Year to EVERYONE.

Al
Georgia

I'll say you've been really getting with it Al, I agree you should keep it for a while after that much work, I bet you could learn to do some bodywork too. I see you're doing the retirement thing right, a year ago I decided to do 3 more years so have 2 more to go, makes a huge difference on pension plan and seeing as I'm still working the plant is in an unusual situation in that our long fall outage that started in September and was planned to end around November is still going on and executives really want it running so we're into everyday now and will soon be on 2-12 hour shifts to work around the clock so I do nothing but work and sleep right now but did make reservations for Springfest, I think we'll have it running by then. Have a great New Year and trip.

Don Marlowe
66 Monza 2Dr 140/pg
64 Spyder convertible now, 110/pg
Eutawville SC

If you have the lower shroud and door/door housing on the bench, line up the holes between them, hold them at a right angle, like on the engine, and adjust the swivel on the threaded rod to have the door closed at room temperature. Install "Jesus" clip. Then slide the hinge pin out of the door, install the door housing to the engine. Slide the door up into the housing while pivoting the lower shroud into place. Install hinge pin, fold down tab to hold it in place (if it still exists, if broken off, drill small hole in a position to not interfere with door pivoting and use #4 sheet metal screw and washer to hold hinge pin in place). Put screws (bolts, cap screws whatever you call them) into lower shroud. Done. Never have to fool with "Jesus" clip again.

One of your thermostats looks partially open (defective). The right shroud.

1965 Chassis shop manual has different adjustment procedure on page 6-15. It is a fully open adjustment.

Also same page shows left lower shroud with thermostat shield towards the "outside" or not the block side, opposite of the way you have yours mounted.

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA

Frank:

What I did what screw the box and shroud together using the 2 mount screws. They are mounted at the shortest position in the screw slot. Then I adjusted the thermostat per the book, which is to pull thermostat and rod all the way out until thermomost hits open stop and adjusted rod adjuster to door full open position. Then install clip. Closed position is what it is.

Is the book incorrect?

What about the heat diverter?

Al
Georgia