Well, ours is a 3 piece now. End cost was about about $136. A good savings. The problem is finding the long 15" tie rod. If you see a new one grab it, if it is under $100.

Al
Georgia

We got the instrument panel in yesterday. Now it is to install the items we pulled to make access for my hands to get in there to access the shifter mount screws.

We torqued and clatter pin all disturb connections. Lubricated all the rods joints and ball joints.

Rick went through the left carb and found a couple items that need to be tweaked to get it right. Donna went and picked it up. I will put it on today.

Hopefully I can run it again today or tomorrow.

Al
Georgia



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/24/2020 03:21AM by Lane66m.

We got the column mount resecured. Installed hardware on park brake bracket. Installed heat/air controller, installed ash tray after cleaning and painting. Installed radio box. Radio had been removed from box and it was cleaned and painted. Trim panel was changed to vertical ridge panel. Reset circuit breaker trip lever to apply power to van. Did light check and found left tail, brake & turn don't work. Right does work as there is no assembly there yet.

Operated fuel pump to check for leaks. Found one where I changed out black hose to Gates Barricade hose. Tighten clamps and it stopped. No leaks at engine following carb installation. Started engine and it started right up. Only issue is it is in drive. Messing with shifter cable probably disengaged it at the tranny. I will fix that tomorrow.

Work is done for the day.

Al
Georgia

We got the shifter cable hooked up again in the transmission. Check its operation before starting and it worked fine. Started engine and put shifter through all selections and responded as required.

Checked carb balance and tweaked it a little. Set idle to 750 in idle. Installed air cleaner. Installed Panel over differential. Installed engine cove.

Installed and secured rear seat. Fuel gage read 1/4 tank with 4 gallons in tank. Added 5 more gallons and it read 5/8 tank.

Took van out for a 12 mile drive. Engine response much better, but still a 80 hp. Ride is much quieter now.

Thinking about putting the 110 hp engine out of the 64 Monza Convertible in this van, even though it is a mated to a manual transmission.

Al
Georgia

Since I have a few electrical items needing attention on the van, I figured a rainy day was a good time.

First up, I have no rear lights at all. The left tail, brake or turn were working 3 years ago, but now is dead. The right tail light assembly is missing due to damage in this location caused a forklift prior to my buying it.

Took the left lens off and found the bulb white. Also found a wire soldered to the bulb base and attached to the mount screw. I knew then I had my work cut out to fix this one. Disconnected the connecter and pulled the assembly to work on it at the bench. Ohm meter checks reveled no continuity from inside socket to the housing. Brass wire wheel in a Dremel cleaned it up and now continuity was good. Got a good bulb and it failed to work when battery was connected to either wire and housing. Wiggled bulb and I could make it light. Loose socket to deal with. Rick suggested using snap punch to lightly indent socket to get the contact needed to make it work. Took a few snaps, but it then became snug enough to keep it lit with some jostling. Installed it and it worked fine for all functions.

Now for the right light I had to manipulate the rear structure some to get it to fit in the mount hole. After some extensive testing, the damaged housing socket was determined to be to rusted to use. I placed the replacement housing in place. It fit, but inboard mount hole was 1/2 off from lining up. Made do with a small bracket attached to the mount bracket to move mount hole, where it would work without elongating the housing. Used machine screw nut clips to get a tight fit to the body. Connected the connecter and tested lights. Park and turn work. Right brake is not working. I will not worry about it right now. Turn signal unit in column next to be replaced due to not cancelling either signal.

Al
Georgia

Worked on non-functioning wiper system. Found the fuse was blown. Put in another and turned it on 2 swipes and it stopped. Fuse blown again. Old fuse, so I tried a newer one. Blew as soon as wipers were selected on.

Pulled switch and ohm'd wires from switch down to motor and washer (switch off). Dead short on black power wire. Pulled connectors off switch and motor/washer. Ohm'd wires to ground. All had infinity reading. Checked motor and terminals 1 and 2 from right had dead short to ground (case).

Pulled a 68 Vair 2 speed wiper motor out of my bins and checked it. It is good. I will use it for the van. Just have to join the black wire (#1 terminal connector) to the #2 terminal wire in the 2 slot connector. I have Packard terminals, so it is an easy change. Harder to install this motor in the van than modifying and connecting the wires.

It will be done tomorrow morning. 90 degrees already, so Donna and I are going out to lunch. Taking the More Door to the Beach.

Al
Georgia

Take the afternoon off!

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We are. We are at the Flying Fish restaurant near Tybee.

Al
Georgia

I took off the afternoon and 10 days from any Vair work. Took a trip to eastern North Carolina.

I got the replacement wiper motor installed and wired up today. It works fine. Had lots of other things to do, so that was it for the Greenbrier. Tomorrow I will install items removed to access the motor.

Al
Georgia

Installed front body cover and grille. Installed radio pod and heater control. Installed wiper switch in dash.

Removed steering wheel and found cancelling cam was intact. Replaced turn signal switch assembly. Tried wheel with original cancelling cam,and found it would only cancel from a left turn. In a right turn it will click going past, but only click when returning. If I put a bit of pressure on the top of the wheel it will cancel the right turn signal. I install the replacement cam I bought and same issue. .Something with the foam used in the finger that does the cancelling. It is a little weak to make the switch kick back to return.

A recheck of brake lights and now I have both brake lights. All electrical issues resolved except no dome lights. Not worried about them as no bulbs in them. I may put LED bulbs in later to see if circuit works.

Al
Georgia

Installed the Clark's supplied idler arm. No issues with its operation throughout its range, but bolts were too long and shank stuck out of the arm by 3/16". Had to use washers to get a good clamp up to the sub-frame.

Al
Georgia

Took the van to Goodyear and had the alignment done. Another item off the list. Only small items left now.

Al
Georgia

Installed sound proofing on right rear side interior panel and inatalled it with the corner panel. Took off left rear side interior panel, installed sound proofing and installed it with the rear corner panel.

Installed jack storage brackets and jack. Installed spare tire bolt with washer with my coupe's spare tire.

Installed arm rests on front doors.

Next up to r3move rear axles to clean and lubricate bearings. Have a howl developing out of one of them.

Al
Georgia

Installed r3built alternator and returned my coupe's spare back to the storeroom.

Removed diode I had put in the alternator warning circuit. Now gen light comes on when switch is turned on.

Cleaned up routing of wires going to low oil pressure switch (PS64). Wires were getting too close to the idler pulley. Got rid of 6" of wire length and 2 splices in this rework. Also used clamp to secure wire to block near distributor. Wires are encased in onion skin sheath.

Al
Georgia

Decided to replace the rear axles with a rebuilt set from California Corvairs. They arrived today. I will be putting them in this weekend. We have a car show at the Alee Shrine being put on by the Mobile Unit. I think I will take Greenbrier to it before changing axles. Slow easy drive to the Temple for the show.

Al
Georgia

I pulled the left axle shaft assembly this afternoon. 1 nut each on the u-joint clamps was just hand tight. The bolt holding yoke onto axle shaft was also hand tight.

Rotated bearing housing and it felt smooth. Drilled out rivets securing bearing housing plates together. These bearings and inner housing plate race look good. Grease was really old and sparse. It wouldn't have been long before it was having issues.

Universal joints caps I removed look good and smooth rotates on the yoke. A good lubrication and back in they go.

I will see what tomorrow brings on the other side.

Al
Georgia

We got back on the axle shaft replacements today.

Installed a new left seal for the shaft in the differential. Took caps off u-joint and pumped grease into the joint until fresh came out the yoke holes. Installed caps and c-clamped them together lubricated u-joint. Installed dust shield on rebuilt axle. Installed axle into van and torqued all hardware installed drum and tire.

Removed the right shaft from van. During removal, I was pushing ratchet & socket on u-joint clamp nut and yoke and u-joint assembly pushed off the axle shaft. Seems PO didn't put the large washer under the bolt to hold assembly onto the axle shaft. Made an easy removal, but I went an found a proper washer to install with the bolt. Installed 2 piece dust shield on new axle. Installed ne shaft seal in the differential. Lubricated u-joint like left side. Installed dust shield on rebuilt axle. Installed axle into van and torqued all hardware installed drum and tire.

Took van off jack stands and moved it outside. After checking van over, I took it down the road on a 8 mile round trip, Got it up to speed 60-63 mph. Only noise I heard was either differential whine or tire whine.

Truck is ready to go onto a new owner. It only has little items that needs to be addressed later on. Plus body and paint work

Al
Georgia

While I was at the Alee Shrine Temple Mobile Unit's Car Show, one of the unit's members stopped me and discussed the van. He wants to trade his 74 Nova SS for it even up. His Nova has a running 350 ci, turbo 350 auto. Bright red with black interior.

We may do the deal after he gets a replacement starter on it. I have owned 2 Novas in the 70s and loved them even though they had 250 L6s in them. a 66 and a 70.

We will see what transpire in the next few weeks.

Unless someone here wants to buy this mechanical sound Greenbrier Deluxe Van out right.

Al
Georgia

Took the Van a 60 mile jaunt around Fort Stewart. Drove and run great. After wards did a couple small things on van today to make sure it was ready for a possible transfer of ownership this weekend.

Repaired right brake/turn poor illumination issue. Seems the socket to housing contact was not good enough. Soldered a wire to the socket and added a large brass ring terminal to slip under housing around mount screw. Works fine now.

Installed right defroster hose. Had to remove glovebox to get it up on dash outlet. Pain in the butt. Left one will be worse behind the instrument panel.

Worked a little on rear dome light. determined it wasn't the bulb. Have to get the meter on circuit to see if power is getting to switch.

Al
Georgia

Horn ring parts installed but still no horn. Not even when I ground the plunger. Have to find another relay and try that.

Does anybody have a photo of What the 64 Greenbrier Deluxe horn ring insulator piece is suppose to look like? I have modified a LM insulator hoping it will work.

The attached photo shows a different set of parts than what I have for my horn ring. If those are the correct parts, then I need to find the red insulator to complete my setup.

Al
Georgia