Hi all,

Am still in the process of getting this engine apart so I can get those heads off and remove the broken plug threads. Heat, umpteen forms of penetrating oils, etc., have failed in moving the nuts holding the outlet pipe in place, so I am most likely going to cut through it (the far end is rotted out, anyway).

My next step will be getting the turbo unit itself off. I assume the flat end of the inlet pipe sits between the base of the turbo and the mounting bracket. The four bolts on the base of the turbo will not all be easily accessible. Is there any reason I can't disconnect the inlet pipe from the crossover, then remove the two bolts that hold the mounting bracket to the engine, and then lift off the entire assembly?

The inlet pipe is probably rusted to the crossover, but they do come apart. Also, you can remove the stainless clamp in thecenter of the turbo which will split it into two parts. This will get the compressor housing and carb out of your way.

The crossover is also rotted through right at that joint, so that may get me past that problem. I had been hoping to avoid splitting the turbo open just yet, but that may have been wishful thinking.

Heat is your best tool and freind, try using some MAP gas to get the hex nuts off. Or you can spilt the nuts as well so that you still have the studs exposed for replacement.

WHY DON'T YOU JUST SPLIT THE NUTS WITH A NUT CRACKER, AVAILABLE AT SEARS AND MOST PARTS STORES WALT

>>A NUT CRACKER<<

From the picture it doesn't look like there's enough room between the pipe and the nut to use a nut splitter .

A hack saw cut (or 2) thru the nut and parallel to the stud will relieve the nut.

I'd probably just use a grinder or a cut-off wheel,---or a torch!

Is anything in the pic really worth trying to save? (seriously)

I've never worked on or even driven a turbo.

I think it's "cheatin" ggg (humor)

"UNSAFE"

I've blasted it with the mapp gas a bunch of times, as well, though I'll give it at least one more go. The plan at present is to cut through the outlet pipe and free up space to go after other things. Once I have it out, then I'll go the nut-splitter route to get the cut end off the turbine.

UNSAFE - even if I decide to go with the 140 (which may yet happen, depending what I find), I still want this beast apart for tinkerin'....

If you split it at the ring, you won't really affect any adjustments. It will expose the exhaust turbin. When you do this the turbo will not turn. There is a spring loaded heat sheld that seats in the exhaust scroll. If you want to see if the turbo is free, you need to compress the heat shield with "C" clamps. Shop manual is your best friend.

There are several different sorts nut crackers. The one with a "ring" at the end, that goes around the nut, will probably not work.

There is one model that looks like a "C" at the end (I have one myself), and that one would work here, i think.
I found this picture on the internet. It is not very good, but might give you an idea what the tool looks like.

Ronnie in Sweden

Well if your going to trash the exhaust pipe,take a chisel or ect and dent the pipe under the nut so you can get a nut splitter in there. If that a doable option for you.

I would use "Dremel moto tool" with a cutoff wheel to split the nuts. I believe that there is enough room for that to do it on the car. A straight carbide bit could also be used to split the nuts without damaging any other parts if you are careful.
DonE

That makes a remarkable amount of sense. Bought a nut splitter that may do the job. Also a better torch (will give heat yet another try). Will test this tomorrow if we aren't snowed in.

Got the top one off. Took the nut splitter to do it.

On to the next two.

This is big - first good news in a month....

Get a hack saw and cut straight through. once off, drill the holes, retap, replace with stainless grade 8 and replace the pipe with a repo and ceramic coat to protect from the elements. Hell, ceramic coat the whole turbo.


[www.swaintech.com]

It'll also help it run cooler and make the turbo spool faster.