I've been remiss in contributing to the forum since buying my Corvair two years ago, but mostly because it hasn’t needed much and I’ve been having too much fun just driving it. Sorry gang. I’ve REALLY appreciated consuming the forum, though. You all are great!

I finally dug in on a project, and I wanted to contribute my notes and pictures, in case it helps someone else someday.

So, here we go. Comments in quotes are taken from the Shop Manual.

---

My turn signal has never properly held/cancelled itself. It works, but I’ve had to manually hold it in place during turns. Armed with the Chassis Shop Manual and the forum, I went to work.

"Disconnect steering column harness from chassis wiring harness at connector."


There are tabs on each side of the narrow outer edges of the connector. I had to carefully pry them back while simultaneously working the connector loose.


"Remove three screws from the receiving cup or horn ring."
Clark's calls the plastic piece a "three prong insulator": [www.corvair.com]


"Remove the receiving cup or horn ring, belleville spring, bushing, and pivot ring."
The flat disc is the "belleville spring". You learn something new every day.


"Remove the steering wheel nut and washer."


"Using Tool J-2927, install centering adapter on steering shaft, thread puller anchor screws into threaded holes provided in steering wheel. Turn center bolt of tool clockwise to remove steering wheel."
This is just a boring, cheap steering wheel puller kit, not "Tool J-2927". It worked fine, though. Putting the nut back on loosely was a good idea -- it kept the centering adapter from slipping off the shaft, and it kept the steering wheel from popping off and hitting the floor/my knees. I got that tip from Matt Nall in an old thread — thanks Matt!


"If necessary, remove directional signal canceling cam."
That's this black plastic piece seen here, surrounding the steering shaft.


I'm not sure what purpose that rod on the left serves yet, but it's comprised of a machined aluminum rod, a red plastic bushing, and a spring.
This is the "...upper bearing preload spring and directional signal cancelling cam..", as referenced in step 4 on page 12-3 of the Chassis Manual for 1967.


This is a dust shield. There's no mention of it in the shop manual.
Kent Sullivan talks about its lack of mention here: [www.corvairkid.com]


This is the "Boyne" signal. Gross. According to the shop manual, "Components of the assembly, except for the canceling and detent springs, are not serviceable and the complete assembly must be replaced if a malfunction should occur."
The "canceling and detent springs" are only present on the "Delco" signal. So, essentially, the Boyne signal requires a complete replacement if it breaks. And it seems to break often, from what I understand.


The plastic arms are broken :/ They’re supposed to be right here, but they’re missing.
That's obviously why my turn signal had to be held manually.


"Remove mast jacket trim cover assembly."


"Remove retaining ring and steering shaft upper wave and thrust washers."
This is the retaining ring. It came out pretty easily for me, with a pair of Craftsman ring pliers applied to the ends.


That's the thrust washer. The wave washer is behind it.


"Remove retaining ring and steering shaft upper wave and thrust washers."
These are the wave and thrust washers. The "wave" washer is appropriately named, because it's wavy


I actually don't know what this is. It fell out during my hasty disassembly. My best guess is that it's a dust shield that goes on the turn signal lever, inside the steering column housing.
Kent Sullivan confirms: "No mention is made, either, of the square rubber gasket that seals the turn signal lever hole." (http://www.corvairkid.com/67-9signal.htm)


There are a couple of the broken pieces and miscellaneous detritus.


"Bearing housing assembly". This includes the plastic Boyne switch and the "upper bearing support" (as named by Kent Sullivan at [www.corvairkid.com]).


Bearing support. My bearing is pretty noisy and gross. I'm not sure what "normal" is, though. Should I replace the bearing?


At this point, I thought I could replace the turn signal cancelling cam, so I took pictures for reference during reassembly. But you can't replace the cancelling cam on these Boyne assemblies; you have to replace the whole assembly, from what I understand.


Almost naked shaft. PG-13.


Naked shaft. NC-17.
I removed the flange with a rubber mallet. It took considerable effort, and as such, a lot of dirt came loose from under the dash. I’ll vacuum it up later.


All of the parts that I removed, for reference. I’m cleaning the gook off of them. I’m curious about the greasing requirements, though. Why is all this stuff so greasy? Seems like only the bearing would require greasing, and it alone shouldn’t have made such a mess… The shop manual doesn’t mention lubricating anything. What am I missing?


I think I'm going to replace this Boyne crap with the Delco switch assembly. As such, according to Kent (http://www.corvairkid.com/67-9signal.htm), I need to find a new housing. Here's a number off of my original housing, for reference.


This part ("three prong insulator": [www.corvair.com]) is obviously broken. Is that why my horn wouldn’t always work when engaged from the right-hand side of the button?



So now I need to order some parts. As mentioned, I think I’m going to convert to the Delco switch. Does anyone know what the part number is for a Delco housing off of a 67-68 Chevrolet supporting the Delco switch? And how important is the “three prong insulator”, and can I buy it separately? And what are everyone’s thoughts on replacing the bearing?

<b>George Murnock
1967 Corvair Monza convertible 140/4, owned since August 2013
Near Boulder, Colorado</b>

<img src="[i1230.photobucket.com]; width="320" height="240"/>

So now I need to order some parts. As mentioned, I think I’m going to convert to the Delco switch. Does anyone know what the part number is for a Delco housing off of a 67-68 Chevrolet supporting the Delco switch? And how important is the “three prong insulator”, and can I buy it separately? And what are everyone’s thoughts on replacing the bearing?

<b>George Murnock
1967 Corvair Monza convertible 140/4, owned since August 2013
Near Boulder, Colorado</b>

<img src="[i1230.photobucket.com]; width="320" height="240"/>

Don't bother replacing the "three-prong insulator" just because of the one break. I've reused them many a time and in worse condition. The connection between the three pegs, I think, is mostly for assembly ease. There is no other purpose other than keeping it together while assembling. And over the decades I've had about a dozen '67's. Serviced this switch many a time.

The shaft bearing could be washed out and regreased. But even after that, if it feels rough, replace it.

Great write-up, and good guesses on the "unidentified parts" you had "left over".

The miscellaneous parts you had lying in the bottom of the cup were the cancelling cam paw and a piece of label off the wiring ribbon. Pitch them.

BTW, good luck on finding the needed part off the Delco switch equipped columns. They are rare, and you might even have to buy the entire column if you find one at a junkyard. Been there, done that. Had to weld in a patch on a badly rusted one in order to salvage it (only one I could find after a state-wide search.)

-Mark

The "rod" is th contact for the horn.

Ed
Hamilton, NJ
66 500 rear 4.3 V6 Corvair
69 350/350 TH Camaro was RS
30 Model A Ford Streetrod 350/400 TH
88 Celebrity Wagon (Daily Driver)

After the 67 model appeared I was seeing instant failures of the 'latching' parts at the shop. I tried to remind every owner that if the turn sig was in the latched position DO NOT cancel by hand. The switch was designed to be canceled only by the canceller under the wheel. I would explain the 'lane change' option of barely touching the stalk in either direction and the lights would flash. Some would remember but most would forget. After a number of hand cancels the plastic arms would be broken.

Sadly many were used to the earlier switches where cancelling was easily done so it was easy to forget. Also many used their Corvairs as the family taxi back then so others were not in the know about the use of the switch. There were 67-9 Corvairs that got several switches replaced through the years because of mis-use of the switch.

So my warning is: if turn sig is latched to a position DO NOT cancel by hand, use the steering wheel movement.

FWIW I sent geomuck a PM and suggested just buying a new replacement switch and remember the above rules. (I had made comments to geomuck about another subject too, thus my PM.) My same advice to anyone else because as Mark notes parts are not easily found.

Like always the above is my opinion only.

best wishes, Steve
Rear Engine Spec. Inc. Golden, Colo.

1962 spyder 3.0L turbo---1965 Crown V8
1967 monza 110/4---1968 monza 110/4
1971 amante gt 110/4
CORSA/RMC/PPCC/V8 Registry

Kent Sullivan has a great article for changing to the Delco switch. It does require some modification to the housing but here is his article
[corvairkid.com]

Lee J

Come to think of it, you're almost better off modifying the existing Corvair cup. Just drill the needed hole for the hazzard flasher button, and weld up the Corvair's hole.

BTW, Goodman's input is spot-on. Have had a dozen '67+ cars, in addition to my convert since '71. (Convert has original top and rear window, only 38,000 miles.) Oddly, I'm not a convertible person, so why have I had it for so long? (I keep asking myself that.... )

-Mark

gnvair Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Kent Sullivan has a great article for changing to
> the Delco switch. It does require some
> modification to the housing but here is his
> article
> [corvairkid.com]

I followed Kent's instructions. They are clear and complete. Super easy and cheaper than an original 67 turn signal assy.

Steve Morton
1961 Rampside,
63 vert,
64 coupe,
65 EO vert,
67,
#0003 1969

Morton's Classic Corvair
Parts and Service
Nampa, Idaho 83686
208-861-7823
60+ Corvairs and 4 semi trailers full
of parts

Mortonsclassicgarage@gmail.com
[www.facebook.com]

Thanks everyone. I was waffling about converting it, but I've decided to give it a shot. There's a wrecking yard near me -- I'll pop in and see if they can find the GM turn signal cover off of a 67-68 Buick/Oldsmobile/something.

I found the Shee-Mar SM211 turn signal assembly off Amazon for $40 shipped, and I bought the tap that Kent mentioned in his write-up. We'll see how it goes. I'll post updates after I get all the parts.

Fun!

<b>George Murnock
1967 Corvair Monza convertible 140/4, owned since August 2013
Near Boulder, Colorado</b>

<img src="[i1230.photobucket.com]; width="320" height="240"/>

I got the Delco switch early last week.


My attempts to find the Delco housing weren’t fruitful. I scoured the internet to no avail, and when I visited the local auto salvage, they were pleasant but had nothing of our vintage.

So I decided to try and patch it myself. Unfortunately, I’ve never learned to weld… so I figured I’d try some JB Weld. The hazard signal hole isn’t even 1/2” in diameter, so welding might be overkill anyway.


It went surprisingly well. I kneaded the JB Weld and pressed it around and inside the hole. I shaped it and cut away excess, then let it sit for a day or something.



I purposefully tried to keep it flat/thin on the inside, so that it didn’t interfere with the turn signal switch and bearing housing.


While that was hardening, I drilled and tapped the two new holes in the flange. It was uneventful. The housing has all five holes in it, so I used that housing to line up and mark the holes with white-out.


Drilled ‘em. Tapped ‘em. Easy peasy.


After the JB Weld hardened up, I spent a lazy Saturday filing and sanding the outside of the housing down smooth.


Painted. It wasn’t great. More sanding needed.


After working at it, and temporarily installing the bearing housing and switch to identify the placement for the new hazard location, this is the final product. You can still see a bit of where I did the patch, but this picture shows the absolute worst of it. As my stepdad used to say, “At 100 miles an hour at midnight, you’ll never know the difference!”


Re-installation was uneventful. I think it came out really good!



I just finished my test drive. The switch works fantastically. Good, solid action, and it cancels manually confidently. All told, I probably spent less than $100, and that includes the tap, the JB Weld, some semi-gloss black spray paint, and the Delco switch itself.

The only thing I haven’t been able to figure out is how best to run the wiring. Anyone have any pictures of their LM steering column wiring, and where/how it runs?

Thanks for reading. I hope this helps or at least partially entertains someone someday

<b>George Murnock
1967 Corvair Monza convertible 140/4, owned since August 2013
Near Boulder, Colorado</b>

<img src="[i1230.photobucket.com]; width="320" height="240"/>

Hi George,
Excellent write up!! You've inspired me to take on this same project. I've already bought the switch. I was wondering if you could tell me the tap/drill size you used on the flange??
Thanks,
George too

George O¸
1967 Corvair 500 110/PG. in family since 1969 with 1200 miles(75k currently).
,,

Excellent! I'm still enjoying the Delco signal "feel" very much.

I've got to give credit to Kent Sullivan's superb write up.

In it, he says:

Quote

The screws are #12-28. Yes, that's right: An obscure size and fine thread at that! If you don't already have a tap that size, it may take a little work to track one down. Hans Abplanalp emailed me in June, 2010 to say that a 5mm fine thread tap worked fine for him, being just a tiny bit smaller. As for the drill size, a #14 is just about ideal. If you don't have access to numbered drills, 11/64" is close. It's a bit undersized but workable. 3/16" is really too big and not recommended because the resulting threads created by the tap will be too shallow.

I used this tap, with the title "12-28 CARBON HAND MAINT TAPS-BOTTOMING" (in case Amazon changes the link someday). I can't recall which drill bit I chose, though. Probably 11/64", if I had to guess.

Best of luck! It's not too daunting at all.

<b>George Murnock
1967 Corvair Monza convertible 140/4, owned since August 2013
Near Boulder, Colorado</b>

<img src="[i1230.photobucket.com]; width="320" height="240"/>

Wonderful thread! In my 66, I noted that my HORN was balky. If yours happens to be that way, I suspect it's the bellevue washer. I scrubbed, cleaned and polished mine (and the things that contacted it) and ... nothing. Then I found a replacement NOS (Clark's?), put that in, and HONK!

Honking is VERY important here in South Florida. Here, proper etiquette requires honking BEFORE impact. If your honker is OK, then forget all this.

Miami, Florida USA
1966 Corsa coupe 140hp 4-speed with "factory" A/C
solenoid-type fuel pump used for priming and backup
3-point retractable seat belts for front seats
8" subwoofer with custom infinite-baffle enclosure in well behind back seat
rear component mids/tweeters powered by outboard amp under pass seat
front mids/tweeters powered by Custom Autosound headunit

Great pics love it !

Rod Tetrault
El Cajon , CA
65 Corsa Yenko Clone / 65 Corsa EO Creampuff Vert
66 Corsa "JIMISH" Mid engine Turbo LS1 currently 2nd fastest Corvair in the USA
Corvair powered Buggy x 3
Enough hidden parts to build a space ship

does this also fix the problem of the driver's side brake light not working properly? I bought my 67 500 3 speed brand new in 67 and my cancelling switch has been bad for probably 25 years and my driver's side brake light only works when I jiggle the turn signal lever.

Tom Yengel
Original owner 1967 500 coupe

Quote
70
driver's side brake light only works when I jiggle the turn signal lever.

Yes, if jiggling the turn signal lever makes the left brake light work, the turn signal switch needs to be replaced. Or cleaned and adjusted, but that is not for the faint of heart as they say!

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA

I just got done skimming all the above, so maybe I missed something. But I'd like to say that the change from the original stock Boyne switch to the Delco switch was first done by Kent Sullivan, who wrote it up in the CC.

The Boyne switch was only used in the Corvair and Corvette, so IF you can find the column housing (I call it the "cup") from another GM vehicle, they can be swapped out. Unfortunately GM only used that cup in '67 (maybe also'68?), so it is difficult to find.

-Mark

Another choice and much easier is to buy a new switch from SHEE-MAR Inc

best wishes, Steve
Rear Engine Spec. Inc. Golden, Colo.

1962 spyder 3.0L turbo---1965 Crown V8
1967 monza 110/4---1968 monza 110/4
1971 amante gt 110/4
CORSA/RMC/PPCC/V8 Registry

Interesting Steve. I've never heard of them.

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA