Hello there. New here. Have a 1964 Turbo that I'm trying to get on the road. Hasn't run since the 80's when my grandpa bought it. I just went through the carb and installed a pertronix unit in it. I also replaced the plugs, cap, rotor and coil. I verified the retard can was good. After priming the system with some ethanol free premium it fired right up and idled fairly smooth. I am going to verify timing this weekend as well as dial in the carb. My question is when going through the service manual it says to adjust the carb until the best vacuum reading is achieved while maintaining the 850rpm idle. What is a good idle reading when warm for vacuum? I know 17-21" for a fuel injected n/a car is good, but I don't know much about turbos or carbs to be honest. Any help is appreciated.

You can expect a value in the range of 14". Most Corvairs have camshaft profiles that were biased toward performance and therefore don't have high idle vacuum.

Craig N. Coeur d'Alene ID.
66 Black Monza 4dr, 4.2L V8 49k
61 Seamist Jade Rampside 140 PG
65 Canadian Monza 4dr 110/PG 40k
66 Sprint Corsa convt - First car! Re-purchased 43 years later
2+2 gnatsuM 5691

+17 Tons of parts

Ok. Thanks. Will keep you guys updated.

Well time to update. Did some more work today. Found the timing was at 0* exactly at 850 idle. Adjusted to the proper 24* BTDC. Engine is running super smooth and is very very responsive. With the idle at about 800rpm the vacuum is between 12-13 inches. I suspect he old vacuum lines may be leaking a little. The valves are also a little noisy so I'm sure they could benefit from an adjustment. All in all things are looking very promising. Gonna get a battery for it do I can run it without jumper cables.

You are good!! Do NOT adjust the Valves!! they are hydraulic lifters and may take an hour of easy driving to get them quieted down...


13" hg isfine...

MODERATOR
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12/13 is good for a turbo, I would up the idle to 850, it helps if there are any idiosyncrasies, also if lights and blower are running.

J.O.

65 Corsa Turbo Vert
79 Honda XL 500S
69 Honda CL 160 D
2010 BMW F 650 GS
2003 Bounder 36D
2013 KIA Optima SX turbo-AKA ZIPPY (wife,s car)
69 Newport Holiday Sailboat
Baja 150 dune buggy cart
Coleman HS 500 UTV
2016 KIA Sorento SXL Turbo

Bethlehem,Pa

I agree; 12-14 is definitely acceptable. What JO stated as to increasing the idle speed is something I would also agree with. Some guys want to idle them down at 450-500 to get the lope from the exhaust, but idling that low can kill the vacuum.

Lee J

Well talk about bringing a thread back from the dead here. After getting the car going again I found multiple other issues preventing it from being road worthy. Did not do much to it since then. Well fast forward 6 years and I got the old girl running again. I finally got a complete new fuel system in the car (tank, lines, sender ect.), went through the brakes and steering and have been able to actually get the thing out on the road. Still working some kinks out with the carb trying to solve a tip in hesitation.

In the process of doing all of this I have gone over the ignition system again as I noticed some slight pinging when trying to get into boost. New plugs, wires cap and rotor again. I went ahead and reset timing on the engine as I discovered fairly quickly I had the distributor 180* out and must have just moved wires around to make it work. Hard to remember what I did 6 years ago and why. I set base timing to 24*BTDC as per the book. I then brought the RPMS up to see if the centrifugal advance was working and to my surprise it advances timing almost immediately off idle. Immediate suspected it has the wrong distributor in it as from my understanding the turbo distributor holds at 24* until about 3800rpm. It does have a boost retard can on it, link arm stamped 224. I then checked the number on the distributor and found it is a 1110319 unit that from what I can find is a 64-68 110hp unit. I need a 1110314 I believe. Before I hunt for one can anyone confirm this for me?

Evan_P Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I then brought the RPMS up to see if the centrifugal advance was working and to my surprise it advances timing almost immediately off idle. Immediate suspected it has the wrong distributor in it as from my understanding the turbo distributor holds at 24* until about 3800rpm. It does have a boost retard can on it, link arm stamped 224. I then checked the number on the distributor and found it is a 1110319 unit that from what I can find is a 64-68 110hp unit. I need a 1110314 I believe. Before I hunt for one can anyone confirm this for me?

Yes, you need a 314 distributor - with the correct pieces in it.

[corvaircenter.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/28/2022 12:33AM by RobertC.

Hi
I have a few 314s in California
PM me
Jeff ballard
Camarillo ca

For some reason, even in my '67 parts catalog, GM had superceded the 314 to the 62-3 298 model.

Perhaps there was a field problem that was corrected by use of the 298? The difference seems to be a little more spark retard when under boost.

Craig N. Coeur d'Alene ID.
66 Black Monza 4dr, 4.2L V8 49k
61 Seamist Jade Rampside 140 PG
65 Canadian Monza 4dr 110/PG 40k
66 Sprint Corsa convt - First car! Re-purchased 43 years later
2+2 gnatsuM 5691

+17 Tons of parts

The 65-6 turbos had 18 degrees mechanical advance, again staring at 3900, and 12 degrees retard. My turbo ran better using a 63 distributor with no pressure retard, but usin* a Safeguard and water injection.

Rocco

Evan_P Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Well talk about bringing a thread back from the dead here. After getting the car going again I found multiple other issues preventing it from being road worthy. Did not do much to it since then. Well fast forward 6 years and I got the old girl running again. I finally got a complete new fuel system in the car (tank, lines, sender ect.), went through the brakes and steering and have been able to actually get the thing out on the road. Still working some kinks out with the carb trying to solve a tip in hesitation.
>
> In the process of doing all of this I have gone over the ignition system again as I noticed some slight pinging when trying to get into boost. New plugs, wires cap and rotor again. I went ahead and reset timing on the engine as I discovered fairly quickly I had the distributor 180* out and must have just moved wires around to make it work. Hard to remember what I did 6 years ago and why. I set base timing to 24*BTDC as per the book. I then brought the RPMS up to see if the centrifugal advance was working and to my surprise it advances timing almost immediately off idle. Immediate suspected it has the wrong distributor in it as from my understanding the turbo distributor holds at 24* until about 3800rpm. It does have a boost retard can on it, link arm stamped 224. I then checked the number on the distributor and found it is a 1110319 unit that from what I can find is a 64-68 110hp unit. I need a 1110314 I believe. Before I hunt for one can anyone confirm this for me?

Theres lots of folks out there that dont use the stock "turbo" distributor. The 110 distributor is not a bad choice. With that, try 16 degrees at 1000.

------------------------------------

Kevin Nash
Friday Harbor Washington
63 Spyder, Daily driver, EFI read about my project here: [corvaircenter.com]
first test start on EFI here:[www.youtube.com]
first official EFI boost test here:[www.youtube.com]
My new fan! [corvaircenter.com]
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Canadian 64 Monza Parts car
Test Start#2 [www.youtube.com]

jbyenko77 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Hi
> I have a few 314s in California
> PM me
> Jeff ballard
> Camarillo ca


PM sent. Thanks.