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EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: keitho64 ()
Date: January 02, 2015 10:21AM

I am finally breaking down to replace the slipping clutch in my 64. This is going to turn into a much bigger project due to my own ‘Scope Creep’. While I intended to do this in spring of 2014 that just did not happen. Here was my original thread I posted which provided many of the insights I needed. [corvaircenter.com]

I have had the car since 1993 and it has treated me well and I figure I owe it some TLC.

I spent the past few days dismantling things. I made the Fitch cradle to remove the powertrain but with my deep oil pan and concern for my floor jack I decided to revise the cradle and use an ATV jack. So by tomorrow the powertrain will be removed.

My plans are:
completely reseal the transmission (input shaft is leaking and not helping the slipping clutch
New u-joints
Rebuild braking system, including all hard lines, flexible lines and emergency brake cables
Rebuild the suspension, including new bushings everywhere, new shocks and springs
Replace motor and transmission mounts
Replace fuel line from tank to engine
Replace heater hoses and clean heater box
Refresh starter with new brushes
Reseal engine
Clean and paint all parts so it looks good

My goal is to get to the Convention this year and drive the Corvair on the Tail of the Dragon. My son and I drove the dragon last year in a different car and are headed back again in May, then again with the Corvair come convention time.

As a quick side note in the 21+ years I have owned the Corvair this will be my first convention.

I will post an update and pictures once the powertrain is out. I just have the two trans mount bolts and engine mount bolt left. I went through many threads here as reference so this will not be written as a how-to, but more of a blog of my progress so I can maintain motivation and get it done before the convention!

Keith
64 Monza Convert 110 4-speed
69 911T (IROC Clone)
"Horizontally Opposed"
05 GTO 6-speed (Gotta have a V8)
Chicago Burbs; the Anti-Dragon... 11 turns in 318 miles



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/02/2015 10:22AM by keitho64.

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: 72LML ()
Date: January 02, 2015 11:39AM

You're doing the same thing that I'm doing to my '62 Coupe. I would also add having the flywheel rebuilt to the list. That way you wouldn't have to worry about the rivets coming loose. You could also look at deflashing the cylinder heads if you haven't done so already.

Nathan
1962 Monza 900 Coupe
1972 Pontiac Luxury Lemans
1978 Porsche 924 (aka the rally beater car)
Burnsville, MN

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: keitho64 ()
Date: January 03, 2015 10:02PM

OK the engine , trans and part of the rear suspension are out.

As expected the clutch is bad, there are a few missing sections and it is worn quite a bit.

The trans input shaft seal is leaking.

One coil spring broke.

My only issue was I needed to have the car up about 2" higher, once I did that it all came out.

Keith
64 Monza Convert 110 4-speed
69 911T (IROC Clone)
"Horizontally Opposed"
05 GTO 6-speed (Gotta have a V8)
Chicago Burbs; the Anti-Dragon... 11 turns in 318 miles

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: keitho64 ()
Date: January 03, 2015 10:04PM

And a few more shots.

One question on the rear crossmember removal, The two top bolts would not budge with the impact on high. I was going to try a large breaker bar but before I go for the brute force method I thought I would ask the experts...

Do any of you have words of wisdom on how to remove all the crossmember bolts without breaking them? I read the service manual and it describes how to repair the cage nuts and upper mounts 'when' they break. However if you know how to do this and NOT break them, I am all ears!

Keith
64 Monza Convert 110 4-speed
69 911T (IROC Clone)
"Horizontally Opposed"
05 GTO 6-speed (Gotta have a V8)
Chicago Burbs; the Anti-Dragon... 11 turns in 318 miles



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/03/2015 10:09PM by keitho64.

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: 64turbo ()
Date: January 04, 2015 04:56AM

I wish I had some good idea/news for those two top bolts, but both of them broke when I removed my crossmember. I would have thought that the two top bolts that are the farthest from road salts, etc would have come right out but nooooo. I had to drill them out and installed threaded inserts. Good luck!

Ron Manwaring
CT Corsa

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: jjohnsonjo ()
Date: January 04, 2015 05:33AM

Never miss an opportunity to replace the pilot bushing. Also I see you live in the north. It will never be easier to install a new heater motor. Both are cheap.

J.O.

65 Corsa Turbo Vert
79 Honda XL 500S
69 Honda CL 160 D
2010 BMW F 650 GS
2003 Bounder 36D
2013 KIA Optima SX turbo-AKA ZIPPY (wife,s car)
69 Newport Holiday Sailboat
Baja 150 dune buggy cart
Coleman HS 500 UTV
2016 KIA Sorento SXL Turbo

Bethlehem,Pa

Image and video hosting by TinyPic

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: 63turbo ()
Date: January 04, 2015 06:16AM

Keith-For the rusty bolts, the best thing you can do is not be in a hurry with them- heat them up and then cool them off with penetrating oil, repeat as many times as you can stand. For bolts that I knew were going to be a particularly
bad problem and was impractical/unsafe to use heat, I've shot them every day for a week with penetrating oil before attempting to loosen the bolts. Also,
tapping on the bolts with a hammer can be helpful with getting the oil to get in. Lastly, in a comparison test, 50/50 acetone and automatic transmission fluid was the absolute best penetrating oil- quite a bit better than any name brand penetrating oil!

------------------------------------

Kevin Nash
Friday Harbor Washington
63 Spyder, Daily driver, EFI read about my project here: [corvaircenter.com]
first test start on EFI here:[www.youtube.com]
first official EFI boost test here:[www.youtube.com]
My new fan! [corvaircenter.com]
engine less 62 Spyder
Canadian 64 Monza Parts car



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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: GWLee ()
Date: January 04, 2015 06:43AM

I have also been told, it is best to tighten the bolt or nut a little. Might not be able to do much tightening but they say that will help break the bolt lose. Then of course do all the other steps heat and fluids over the course of a few days to a week. I have also read in here about using candle wax. And it actually being the best for removing rusted bolts. Have not tried it yet but I do now have a candle in the shop for if and when. Many have sworn by candle wax.

As has been said, take your time especially if it is in a place it would be hard to drill or replace a cage nut.

Good luck,

Lee Adkins

A Cave Man car
1960 2dr Coupe with pg
Color Tasco Turq.
With Ermine white top.

Catlettsburg,
In the Beautiful state of
North/East KY!

Not the best pic, but the only I had from then, 1997!

2016!

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: keitho64 ()
Date: January 04, 2015 08:21AM

Thanks for the ideas. I will soak the bolts for a week or so and then heat. I am going to drill access holes in the car per the service manual and hit those nuts with penetrating oil.

I have plenty of other work to do so hopefully patience will prevail.

Thanks again!

Keith
64 Monza Convert 110 4-speed
69 911T (IROC Clone)
"Horizontally Opposed"
05 GTO 6-speed (Gotta have a V8)
Chicago Burbs; the Anti-Dragon... 11 turns in 318 miles

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: UGLYTRUK ()
Date: January 04, 2015 09:26AM

I'm amazed that my 50 yar old heater motors work quietly, they sure don't look as if they've ever been changed!

Who do you think you'll be buying a preesure plate from? Flywheel? Disc? I bot a so-called Heavy Duty PP, and after it was installed, the foot effort rquired was much less than the one I removed. I would have re-used the (not so) old PP, but hindsite is a miserable thing...

As for the crossmemmbr bolts, I can't think how accesible the threads-nut is, but I use an oxy-acetylene torch, and immediatley spray-quench the fastener with a water spray bottle (plant atomizer). It's a trick I learned 30 years ago, works great, and no burned fingers tinkering with what one thot was a cooled off nut of bolt or even the wrench-socket can get HOT.

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: keitho64 ()
Date: January 08, 2015 07:31PM

UGLYTRUK Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> Who do you think you'll be buying a preesure plate
> from? Flywheel? Disc? I bot a so-called Heavy Duty
> PP, and after it was installed, the foot effort
> rquired was much less than the one I removed. I
> would have re-used the (not so) old PP, but
> hindsite is a miserable thing...
>


I get the majority of my parts from Clarks or the Underground. I prefer to keep the business with the vendors who support us.

My car is a 110 with some minor modifications so I am leaning toward a factory replacement. I cannot imagine it will make enough power to cause the stock clutch/pressure plate to slip.

It has been brutally cold in ChiTown so all I have been doing is saturating the nuts with PB Blaster. I am going to do the heat / cool treatment Sunday and see if I can get the bolts off. The only other disassembly left is the hard lines for fuel and brake. Then I can start putting it back together.

I do like your EM with that little Hair Dryer on it. grinning smiley I am looking for a complete turbo motor to eventually swap into mine. For now I will stick with the 110 unless I find a decent turbo motor.

How does the 6 puk clutch work? Is the take up smooth?

Keith
64 Monza Convert 110 4-speed
69 911T (IROC Clone)
"Horizontally Opposed"
05 GTO 6-speed (Gotta have a V8)
Chicago Burbs; the Anti-Dragon... 11 turns in 318 miles

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: UGLYTRUK ()
Date: January 08, 2015 07:53PM

Keith, I thot the Source had send LeVair a ceramic clutch, so when got oil soaked (or so I thot, wasn't as bad, still was dry), I ordered what I thot was the same disc. Turns out after I dropped and seperated the PP, it was just a standard or better disc, pretty worn for less than 10k miles, so I took a chance on the 6 puck, and it's pretty brutal.

Luckily the PP is NOT the heavy duty unit it was advertised as, so it makes it easier to modulate the pedal to avoid the abrupt off-on as I now learn the ceramic disc has a reputation for. I've only driven the car a couple of blocks, from my shop to my house.

I normally only use the car on road trips to car shows, so it's really not going to be much of an issue, tho it bugs me that the flywheel will wear as the ceramic pucks wear things pretty badly.

Lon gets his PP's from Corventure

In my opinion, PB Blaster and the like don't do any rust-busting, tho I did buy several cans at Lowes on my cross country road trip, they were reduced to under a buck a can!

Don't waste your time w a turbo unless the turbo is modified, the stock Corvair turbo is more for show. Mine has a vintage Crown exhaust housing, E Flow impeller, and modified (Milled) cold side. It really should get a Weber w staged 2bbl, or back to a stock YH as I have no extra time to tinker w things like in the old days.

This is without a muffler, and my assistant w the camera is dead, shame

[www.youtube.com]

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: keitho64 ()
Date: January 10, 2015 04:19PM

I spent the day in the garage with all the best intentions. I brought a 3/4" impact gun home from work to give it a try. Unfortunately it still won't budge. I tried heat (I only have a Mapp torch, time to get something hotter) then hit it with cold water. I also tried more PB blaster.

I am going to let it soak for another week, heat it with a better torch and then use the breaker bar. I am trying my best not to break the bolts but I am beginning to think that is not going to happen.

I was able to get the yolk off one axle but the other side is being a bit stubborn. I am doing heat/cool and a puller on the yolk.

In the fours hours I spent in the garage I have little progress today.

The good news is once I get the cross member and yolk out I can start cleaning and reassembly.

Keith
64 Monza Convert 110 4-speed
69 911T (IROC Clone)
"Horizontally Opposed"
05 GTO 6-speed (Gotta have a V8)
Chicago Burbs; the Anti-Dragon... 11 turns in 318 miles

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: keitho64 ()
Date: January 18, 2015 11:12AM

All I can say is I am SOLD on AeroKroil!

Patience paid off. I was soaking everything in PB Blaster but they still would not break through. I found about Areokroil and figured the $28.00 for the bottle was worth the gamble. I soaked the top crossmember bolts for about 15 minutes.

I drilled access holes per the shop manual to get access to the lower bolts. I drilled a ¼” hole, just enough to get the nozzle of the Areokroil in to spray.

I used a 24” breaker bar and the bolts easily broke free. I could not believe it! Once I broke them free I used the impact gun to run them out. On one bolt I did have to go forward and reverse for a while. They all came out clean and the cage nuts appear to be in perfect condition!

Today I will finish tearing down the crossmember and remove the brake and fuel lies. Then off to place orders for the parts!

Thanks for the words of wisdom, patience prevailed!!

Keith
64 Monza Convert 110 4-speed
69 911T (IROC Clone)
"Horizontally Opposed"
05 GTO 6-speed (Gotta have a V8)
Chicago Burbs; the Anti-Dragon... 11 turns in 318 miles

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: January 18, 2015 12:08PM

We luv Success!





MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
..............................110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: keitho64 ()
Date: January 18, 2015 02:55PM

OK only one more stubborn part, the yolk on the drivers side. I was able to get the passenger side off with a puller but the drivers side is not moving!

I have used heat, tapping on the yolk with a hammer and my trusty puller. I am able to use the impact gun on the puller but it will not budge.

I am trying my luck with the Aerokroil now. If that doesn't work I was thinking the other option will be to use a cut off wheel and slit the side of the yolk. I hate to destroy it but that may be the final answer.

Does anyone have a good method for getting the yolk off the axle?

Keith
64 Monza Convert 110 4-speed
69 911T (IROC Clone)
"Horizontally Opposed"
05 GTO 6-speed (Gotta have a V8)
Chicago Burbs; the Anti-Dragon... 11 turns in 318 miles

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: January 18, 2015 02:58PM

Always leave the puller on and under tension! You may come out the next day and it's moved!





MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
..............................110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: keitho64 ()
Date: January 18, 2015 03:06PM

Thanks Matt, I'll give that a try.

Keith
64 Monza Convert 110 4-speed
69 911T (IROC Clone)
"Horizontally Opposed"
05 GTO 6-speed (Gotta have a V8)
Chicago Burbs; the Anti-Dragon... 11 turns in 318 miles

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: GWLee ()
Date: January 18, 2015 03:52PM

That was what did it on one of mine. Tightened up the puller after a few good wacks. Left it until the next day. Came out put a the socket wrench on it and it came loose. Did hit it with a little transmission fluid and acetone.

Lee Adkins

A Cave Man car
1960 2dr Coupe with pg
Color Tasco Turq.
With Ermine white top.

Catlettsburg,
In the Beautiful state of
North/East KY!

Not the best pic, but the only I had from then, 1997!

2016!

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Re: EM: New Clutch, Rear Suspension, Brakes and anything else I can do while I am at it.
Posted by: keitho64 ()
Date: February 04, 2015 07:50PM

So the puller has been on for a while, heat hasn't broken it free, hammering, etc. Going to keep trying for a bit longer but I may end up cutting it off and getting a new yolk.

Stuck-Yolk


I did get the heater box cleaned up. This is a driver quality car so I didn't get to carried away with sanding and finishing.

Heater-1


Heater-2

Keith
64 Monza Convert 110 4-speed
69 911T (IROC Clone)
"Horizontally Opposed"
05 GTO 6-speed (Gotta have a V8)
Chicago Burbs; the Anti-Dragon... 11 turns in 318 miles

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