……
Corvair DiagramCorvair Photo
Corvair Center
home forum corvairs calendar links Corvair Podcast
California Corvairs
Clarks Corvair
Clarks Corvair
“CORSA"



Chevy Corvair License Plate
Chevy Corvair Chrome Wheel
Corvair Center Forum :  Corvair Center Phorum - presented by CORSA The fastest message board... ever.
Corvair Center 
Pages: 12Next
Current Page: 1 of 2
1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: JPinAZ ()
Date: May 22, 2014 04:36PM

Hello all, looking for a little help. A long time friend of mine purchased a 1964 Corvair recently. He loves it and it is very good shape. He was not happy with it leaking oil. We removed the drive train and resealed the bell housing and oil pan. The clutch was chattering and the disc was oil soaked. Since the throw out bearing, pilot bearing, flywheel and pressure plate looked fairly new we decided to replace just the disc. Old disc had a riveted center and the new one was not rivited. The problem now is that the clutch will not release. I adjusted the cable so the bell crank arm is about 1/2 from the crossmember. Then adjusted the rod to the transmission so that it would align freely with the crank then backed it off three turns. When depressing the clutch the crank moves until almost perpendicular to the ground. If you pry the crank past perpendicular the clutch will release. I have tried taking the slack out of the rod going to the shift fork and the clutch will begin to release but I am sure this would ruin the throw out bearing. Also when checking the free play of the throw out bearing and fork there is about 5/8 inch of free play inside the bell housing. I am sure the flywheel is installed correctly and there are no unusual noises. Clutch worked fine before the repairs so I believe either there was an installation problem or we got a bad/wrong disc. Hopefully this post makes sense and that you in advance. John

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: Timothy Shortle ()
Date: May 22, 2014 07:49PM

A couple of thoughts. Is the disc installed correctly (most are marked "flywheel side"). Could the center hub of the disc be scraping/dragging on the flywheel bolts (checked using the input shaft before the pressure plate is installed)? Are all the parts properly matched i.e. matching years? Is the fork properly installed on the pivot ball?

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: UGLYTRUK ()
Date: May 22, 2014 08:00PM

Funny, I just posted my clutch questions, and this was just in the line directly below... My '62 has a '64 engine and diffy (3.27's), and '62 tranny

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: bill darcy ()
Date: May 22, 2014 08:44PM

It's very possible that the new disc is a bit fat.Adjust the clutch so that it releases and with your foot on the brake try to engage the clutch partially to burn off the fuzz.Usually a couple attempts will remove the slight bit of excess facing material.Some reman discs are slightly thicker than OEM.

In the Hub City, Belen NM

Lead from behind..... get left in the dust
"I have not failed I've just found ten thousand ways that won't work" Thomas Edison

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: rowin4 ()
Date: May 22, 2014 08:58PM

Sounds to me that you might have installed the disc in backwards.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: bill darcy ()
Date: May 22, 2014 09:16PM

Already stated that if the clutch cross shaft is pried that the clutch will release.If the disc was in backwards no amount of prying would relaese it.

In the Hub City, Belen NM

Lead from behind..... get left in the dust
"I have not failed I've just found ten thousand ways that won't work" Thomas Edison

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: vairmech ()
Date: May 23, 2014 05:20AM

Clutch adjustment doesn't quite seem to agree with what the book says, it's close but there are a few differences for the clutch to operate well.

Start out with the cable and the cross shaft, adjust that to the dimension in the book or just a little closer with the return spring attached to the cross shaft and pushing on the cross shaft to remove slack in the cable. Now pull forward on the clutch rod from the bell housing, at the same time push on the lever where the clutch rod attaches and adjust the clutch rod so the adjuster just fits in the hole or even one tight.

If everything is correct in the bell housing then the clutch should work.

The free play is what you feel on the pedal before you get to the real pressure of the PP and should be no more than 1/2". This will be way tighter in places than you think.

Here is a test for you on free play, push the clutch pedal down and pay attention to the stages of pressures encountered. What you MAY have is very easy free play where the pedal pushes down then you encounter where you really should be adjusted to and there is more pressure than you think should be there but that is just before you encounter the actual pushing. This all needs to be done with your hands. You need to only have two stages of pushing pressure with your hands, one will be a firm pressure and then you should encounter where you REALLY have to push with your hands, there you are starting to push on the pressure plate. The distance to the firm push of real pressure plate pressure should be the 1/2" of free play talked about.

Ken Hand
Handy Car Care
248 613 8586

Vairmech@aol.com

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: JPinAZ ()
Date: May 23, 2014 03:40PM

Thanks for the replies, I will post results ASAP

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: JPinAZ ()
Date: June 06, 2014 11:38AM

Okay, we have this thing apart again. Remember this is a 1964 four speed. We found we have an early flat finger pressure plate, early not staggered flywheel, non riveted disc that is .321 thick, early T/O bearing and a broken clutch fork clips at the T/O bearing. Because the clips are broken that makes putting the fork on the bearing incorrect impossible. My first question is the same, The only thing different is the disc so is it the problem? Second, how could the broken fingers effect the clutch so that it would not disengage? 3rd is this an early 1964 with a 1963 early set up from the factory? The only other thing I have found is Clarks cataloge mentions using a different ball stud or shimming the old one to use an early set up in a 1964+ car. How can I find the year of the trans or diff and am I worried about the tranny year or the diff year because the ball stud mounts to the diff? I will post photos as soon as I can make them small enough. TIA

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: JPinAZ ()
Date: June 06, 2014 11:52AM

Here's three

Attachments:


Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: JPinAZ ()
Date: June 06, 2014 12:04PM

3 more

Attachments:


Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: JPinAZ ()
Date: June 06, 2014 12:08PM

More

Attachments:


Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: Tom Z ()
Date: June 06, 2014 10:27PM

I see 3 things 'wrong'-- 1- the ball stud and 2- TO/release bearing are for the later stepped flywhl/bent finger PP.. the pic of the pilot doesn't look like it's driven in the crank enough, it should be .120" (almost 1/8") below flush..

Tom Z,,Rochester NY

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: UGLYTRUK ()
Date: June 06, 2014 11:28PM

Can we hear more about the correct ball stud, and see the TO bearings (EM vs LM) side by aside

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: JPinAZ ()
Date: June 07, 2014 08:22AM

Tom,

My research shows the taller bearing is used with the early flat plate and this clutch worked perfect before we replaced the disc. Can you or someone else please elaborate?

I believe this is the TO you feel I should use

[www.rockauto.com]

Thanks for the reply

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: JPinAZ ()
Date: June 09, 2014 03:41PM

This link shows my TO to be correct?

[www.californiacorvairparts.com]

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: Wagon Master ()
Date: June 09, 2014 05:22PM

It also looks like a 64-69 throw-out bearing to me. Here are some measurements to clear that up.
[www.corvair.com]

Been aircooled since 1973
Northwest Ohio 45840

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: JPinAZ ()
Date: June 10, 2014 02:46PM

According to all of the information I have gathered I have all early stuff. Head casting number is 3795960 and block is a ZF so I am going to put it back together.Thanks I will post results.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: Mel ()
Date: October 10, 2014 05:17AM

John ,,,Did you solve your clutch release problem?confused smiley

Orangeville, Ontario. CANADA

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: 1964 Clutch problem
Posted by: Mel ()
Date: October 10, 2014 05:23AM

Having same problem with a 1964 with a NEW clutch/flywheel combination from Clarks, clutch is not releasing and has heavy pedal effortsad smiley.

Orangeville, Ontario. CANADA

Options: ReplyQuote
Pages: 12Next
Current Page: 1 of 2


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
This forum powered by Phorum.