Kevin, where did the relays com from?

Are you going to post a vid or two of the start up? I know you are in a hurry to the convention, so keep it up!!

Sam Russell
Durham NC
1962 Monza Wagon Ted Brown EFI Gen II
1964 Spyder coupe

Oops! heres the link: [www.autotrendefi.com]
The company is called Autotrend EFI. I'm not sure if I'm going to have much time to video the first start, let alone even get it started- I'm going sure as heck try though!!

One of my tasks that needed to get done was to delete the carbureted electric fuel pump that had previously been installed. Everything was going just fine until I made the new shorter flex line, installed it, and discovered that I had upset the sender tube enough to cause it to begin seeping gas, right at the joint between the metal tube and the plate. I attempted (a couple of times) to do a epoxy type repair, and was not successful (as detailed in a different thread)- so, I bought a new S.S. sender from Clarks, and installed that today. I clipped off the ground wire to this sender, and removed most of the float and arm so as to make the install easier, and because I have a different level sender installed from the top of the tank next to the efi fuel pump. The other reason for removing the float arm was to eliminate any chance of a fit problem between the float arm and the in tank efi pump, which looked like it might be in the way.
The 2 ground wires are for the new level sender and for the efi pump. I decided to make these grounds separate in an attempt to give each device a little nicer ground.

Here are some pictures of my new re-worked and re-chromed cross over manifold-
Because of interference problems between the stock manifold air pressure fittings and the injector bungs, I decided to re-locate those fittings on to the manifold, as well as add a manifold air temperature sensor bung. I just got this manifold today!

Here's a couple more...

Details!! always make a difference!

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
...............110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

Here's the manifold with my throttle cross shaft installed. I had always hated how loose and sloppy the stock cross shaft fit on the manifold, so I made my own. There's brass bushings that are press fit into each end, and the shaft is made smaller to accommodate the bushing i.d.'s. I had originally made this when I was running the weber carbureted set-up, and when I took of the weber to convert it to throttle bodys, I put the stock set-up back on. I was a little unsure if the bushings were going to fit on a completely different manifold, so one of the first things I did when I received this manifold was to install my other special cross shaft. It works like a champ!!!
The fit between the bushings and cross shaft is around .0015", and rotates nice and free like the stock set-up, without the slop!!!

I will post some pictures of the special machined clamp style throttle arm that clamps to the shaft between the supports a little later... its going to be a very long night, and tomorrow.... lots and lots of work to do!!!

Is that electrical loom insulating those wires? Interesting!

Kevin
Medina, OH

Kevin- The insulation for the efi and fuel level sender wires is asphalt coated cloth (I think that's what it is called)- I bought it from NAPA. I used that for those wires because I needed to route those wires up tight to the tank and needed something that would be absolutely bullet proof that some sort of adhesive would adhere to. When I explained what I was doing and what I needed it for, that's what the dudes at NAPA recommended. I put the wires in the asphalt coated cloth, then bedded the cloth with a heavy layer of SIKAFLEX
urethane adhesive to adhere to the tank down one of the channel sections of the tank, and then at the bottom of the tank they loop over and through the bulk head- the grommet is the same one that is used for all of the floor pan drain plugs.
Kevin Nash

Here are a couple of pictures of my throttle arm, mounted to the cross shaft, installed much like it would be as if it was in the car. I wasn't quite finished with the arm as of this morning, so since it was raining, I decided to finish the throttle arm as best I could while waiting for the rain to quit.

63turbo Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Here are some pictures of my new re-worked and
> re-chromed cross over manifold-

> I decided to re-locate those fittings on to
> the manifold, as well as add a manifold air
> temperature sensor bung.

thats a nice looking re-worked & re-chromed cross over manifold!

are the extra fittings 1/8 ntp like the stock stuff? where did you get them or did you make them?

-Scott V.

Scott- Thanks! I've been waiting for this manifold for quite awhile- when it showed up, I just sat there and stared at it, amazed at how nice it turned out! I tried hard to take the pictures as best I could, but they don't really do this piece justice!!
Yes, all of the fittings are 1/8 npt. Ray Sedman did the manifold for me, I'm not sure if he made the bungs or modified some off the shelf ones. He also
modified the SDS manfold air temperature sensor so that it would fit a 1/8 npt fitting, and not excessively protrude into the manifold. The sensor and fitting that they send are huge compared to the modified one.

Kevin Nash

Here are some pictures of my new turbo oil drain fittings and clamps. I had previously been using a S.S. braided Teflon lined hose for a drain line- although I really liked the way it looked, I hated the numerous oil leaks I had with it, and when I had the engine out, I was determined to deal effectively with those leaks! The old set-up used the stock fittings with most of the drain tube cut off, and the braided hose clamped to the cut off stub at the elbow, and clamped at the stock drain tube at the head. I had leaks at both ends of the tube for a variety of reasons, one of which was the fact that the hose, installed was right at the minimum bend radius, and was constantly tweaking the clamped end at the drain at the head. The other reason for the leaks had to do with not using hose barb ends. These pieces ought to take care of both problems. Using the 1/2 npt to 5/8 hose barb elbow versus the old stock elbow with the compression fitting end adds close to 1" to the free length of the hose, and the hose barb end that I machined for the drain at the head will stop oil from seeping between the hose and the drain tube.
I bought three clamps- one for the barb at the elbow, one for the barb at the other end, and one more to clamp the hose to the head drain tube.

Here's a couple of pictures showing the fittings installed, without the hose.

What computer system are you using for your injection?

Lee J

I'm running the sds fuel injection system- here's the link: [sdsefi.com]
I bought mine through Ray Sedman- he makes it so simple, as he pre-programs these to get them pretty close for your application, and his tech support is absolutely TOP NOTCH!!!
Kevin

Here's some more pictures of the turbo oil drain, finished. I was intending on mounting the clamps directly on the braided hose, but once I tested the clamps near the size they would be tightened to, and saw how out of round they got, and how un-even the clamping pressure on the hose would be, I decided to add some rings (made from 3/4" i.d. hydraulic hose) underneath the clamping area at each spot, to better spread out the clamping force. At a later date I might make some slip on trim rings for the hose ends, but I'm pretty happy with how this part turned out, as is.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/27/2014 04:29PM by 63turbo.

Finally, I got the wiring mess at the tunnel pan mostly dealt with. After I saw
Cecil's car at the convention, and saw how nice the wire loom material that he used on his car looked, I just had to try it out! I might be having to buy a whole bunch more of this stuff!!

I was making really good progress on my project up to the day before I was going to the convention. Then, it started raining, and I knew I was probably not going to be driving my Corvair to the convention because I still had stuff to do that required me laying on the ground. As it happened, the rain did stop long enough for me to get done what needed to be done. The next thing to do was to test the fuel system for leaks, and by 11:30 that morning I was ready to power the pump up. Then.... GUSHER! lots of gas shooting out of the #4 injector pocket. That was the point that I gave up on getting it running and driving down to Tacoma. After returning home from the convention last Saturday,
I worked on the fuel system to get the rail/injector leak fixed, and then discovered three others. Finally, Thursday, I had it completely and totally leak free with the regulator set at 42psi. So, as of Friday, I've been working on the wiring, and right now, it's looking pretty darn UGLY!! These pictures might end up being THE definition of RAT'S NEST, and a great example of what happens when you ask somebody else to make wiring harnesses and not being specific enough on lengths of wires, like I did- nobody is to blame but me!