Looks great!

Setterz54
Fulton,MD.

Thanks Matt and Setterz54!! I should have some more pictures up tomorrow.

Here's a couple of pictures showing the clutch line and new rear brake line routing- I spent way too much time trying to get the lines high enough to clear
the top pulley bracket, thinking it might be helpful to take that bracket off when I replaced the parking brake cable- then I discovered that the tunnel cover wouldn't fit if the lines were far enough away so as to allow the bracket to come off easily, then I bothered to look at my new yet to be installed parking brake cable, and saw how small the ball was, then decided it was a giant waste of time to have worried about the stupid bracket, because it doesn't need to come off to replace the parking brake cable - OOPS!! The pieces of green tape are marking off various bend points in the two lines.

I'm just about finished with the hydraulic clutch conversion- here's some pictures showing this weekends progress:

The last picture shows the routing mess I still have to fix- the oil pressure gauge line and the manifold pressure line were routed strangely to begin with, and it looks like there's way too much line- I might be have to dis-connect those 2 lines and then re-route them under the heater control cables, but for now my priority is just to get my corvair back on the road soon! Another little
project is going to be to machine a nice, tube separator for the clutch and rear brake line, so as to eliminate the metal to metal contact that the tubes have currently

Fantastic work!

1963 Monza Spyder
Undergoing a ground up restoration
[63monzaspyderrestoration.shutterfly.com]

2012 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor

Copperopolis, CA

Thanks Scott!! I have to tell you, I never thought I would still be working on this hydraulic clutch modification project for this long- I started this in April of this year. At that time I thought it was only going to take 3 weeks- So far it has been 7 months!! Once I started posting pictures here it has turned into a motivating factor to get more done on it so as to have more pictures to post!
Thanks again,
Kevin

Here is my first attempt at making my own clutch pull rod. This one will work for now, however I noticed that on the stock piece, at the fork end, that both the pin and the rod had a bit of wear. The pin had a groove worn in it, and the hole in the rod had been elongated- this to me looks like the tang is too
thin and not wide enough. Since the piece that I made has the same thickness at the tang and is as wide as the stock one, it too will have wear problems, but if the tang is left thicker, then the tang wont be wide enough to fit the hole- so... the fun way to take care of this will be to buy a piece of 3/4" dia. S.S. 303 and machine it to the same profile as this one is (.5 o.d. at the clutch slave end, tapering to .375 dia in the middle) but make the tang end
much beefier.

I was hoping to get more done on my project but ran into a unexpected problem.
I needed to remove the clutch pedal so as to dill a hole in the arm to attach the clutch master- I needed to remove a clip from the pivot to get the clutch pedal out- I had previously done this many years ago, and remembered that it was not fun to get that clip out. This time that stupid clip got stuck part way out, and I ended up breaking it off, bit by bit. Even though I could not see any of the clip left, the clutch pedal wouldn't slide out, and I concluded that there was a bit of the clip still in there that I couldn't see, or there was some sort of burr on the clip groove, preventing it from coming out.
Since I couldn't figure out why that clutch pedal wasn't coming out, I had to remove it by un-bolting it- few things are more frustrating (except perhaps that evil
cotter pin on the parking brake cable pulley) to take off than that clutch pedal bracket- here's a picture of it off- just to PROVE that it really did happen!! The green tape has a mark on it that locates the spot for the clutch master heim joint attachment point.

This next picture shows the hole in the clutch arm, and my new frustration proof method of clutch pedal retention! I forgot to mention- after all of the
time spent un-bolting the clutch pedal bracket, I was surprised and mad to find
that the pedal pivot popped right out of the bracket- in other words, if I just
would have pushed a little harder on the pedal while it was still mounted, I never would have had to take the effing bracket off!!! Oh well- the bolt and washer method will guarantee that this little problem cant ever happen again!

Good idea!!

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
...............110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

Thanks Matt!!- I forgot to add, the bolt is 1/4-20. This way should the bolt head get broken off sometime in the distant future, the clutch pedal can still
be slid back out and the bolt hole can easily be drilled and tapped to a larger
size.

I needed to make a extension/ spacer for the spherical rod end on the clutch master- here it is, installed at close to the length that it needs to be. The spacer is just threaded steel rod, and to attach to the spherical rod end, I cut the end of a bolt off and used that for a stud.

The hard part has been to re-install the clutch arm and its bracket- there are 3 through bolts, 3 lock washers and three nuts that have to go in, and, as it happens, have to go in with the clutch arm on its bracket, and the separate bracket for the clutch arm stop. I spent close to 8 hours yesterday screaming and swearing trying to get everything in. There is barely enough room to place the bolts with fingers, and the lock washers kept falling out when trying to start the nuts on. When I was ready to call it quits for the day, I had the 2 lower bolts and nuts in place, and was dreading trying to start the last nut, which goes on the bolt shown here

The bolt is kind of in the shadows, and had not had the lock washer installed yet- I had gotten fairly skilled at installing the lock washers using a magnet,
but, trying to get the nut started on that particular bolt was looking to be next to impossible with the tools that I have. The lower nuts were started on using needle nose pliers on one, and my fingers on the other one- that upper one is so far up that my needle nose pliers wouldn't reach, nor my fingers, and
taping the nut to a wrench end wasn't an option because it blocks the view.
Here is what I ended up doing about it:

I just tried this tool a few minutes ago- IT WORKED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I wish I would have thought to try this on the other ones yesterday, it makes a thoroughly HATEFULL job into a exceedingly simple one- it works way better than the needle nose plier method, as there is MUCH better control of the angle
of the nut.

That's the way!! Stop and think before losing too much blood!! gg

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
...............110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

I don't get it.

1963 Monza Spyder
Undergoing a ground up restoration
[63monzaspyderrestoration.shutterfly.com]

2012 Crown Victoria Police Interceptor

Copperopolis, CA

Scott... pic doesn't show it clearly... looped cord is slipped thru tube...

Pulled tight, it holds the nut stable until he threads the bolt far enough to turn the nut in the cord..

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
...............110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

Vairy clever!! I'm filing that one away in my creative tools list. I'll have to thread a tube the same way just to serve as a reminder when the time comes!

I'v resorted to gluing a nut on my fingers before just to get access while starting it.

Clink!!

---

Dan Davis ~ Pierce County, WA ~ Corvairs NW + North Cascades Corvairs + Corvanatics
1966 Corsa Turbo coupe ~ ~ 1966 Corsa 140 Coupe ~ ~ 1965 Monza 140/4 Convertible Sierra Tan/Fawn ~ 1964 Monza Spyder Convertible ~ 1960 Monza Ermine White/Red PG ++ ~ 1965 Monza 140/4 CoupeEvening Orchid w/ ivory/black interior ~ 1962 Monza Wagon 102/4 ~ 1963 Rampside/Scamper ~ 1963 Red/Greenbrier ~ 1969 Ultra Van #468