Right.. go look at your local NAPA

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Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
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Also, ask Clarks to ask their supplier!

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
...............110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

What about simply using one of the other, late style blocks- apparently there is a 2 port out and a one port out, and the one port out would be for the 67 and later(?) dual master corvair- unfortunately, there are no pictures of these
shown at Clarks. I've started in on the arduous process of replacing the rear brake line and now that I know how much room I have in the interior, under the dash, it is obvious that I will have plenty of room to use whatever type of block I want, however, I've come to appreciate how much it matters as to where
and which direction those outlet ports are aimed. Does anyone have a picture of
the 67 and later brass junction block that goes to the rear brakes?

Here are some pictures showing the junction blocks orientation, and the line mounting problems that I'm running into. This first picture shows the stock rear brake line approximately aimed at the center port. This line has been bent
and un-bent and re-bent enough to make it an exercise in futility to try and bend it again to go into the right block. Also, the threaded fitting is rusted
to the line and the hex on the nut is getting buggered up, so even if I could somehow bend this line to go into the center port, I was going to have some problems, so I decided this was as good a reason as any to replace that effing thing.

This next picture shows how tight of a fit there is between the line and the sheet metal for a brake line bent to use the center port- I hand not realized how close the center port was to the dimple in the sheet metal- this line does
BARELY fit and thread in, but is creating some other problems- I'm not sure if I will use this line routing at this point.

The other way to do this is to bend a line to attach to the outer side port,
like this picture shows:

Here is what that piece looks like oriented approximately as it would be mounted- for this line to work, that first u-bend leaving the brass block needs
to bend towards the sheet metal, so as to avoid a collision with the windshield
wiper motor arm. Also, if I use this mounting, it will sort of narrow the mounting locations for the third block, and a side port exit will be harder to deal with than a bottom exit.

Finally! brake and clutch master trunk lines installed! I only have three more
lines to bend, and 5 more pieces of line to attach.

Here's some pictures of the heavily modified crown weber manifold and gutted
weber 45dcoe that was flow tested- The masking tape is holding a piece of clay
that was stuck in place to improve the flow. If I remember right, without the
clay, it flowed 242 cfm and with the clay it flowed 248 cfm at 10" of water.
The high flow test (where the crown manifold is mounted on the turbocharger intake manifold) was also done with the clay added to the merge.

Heres the gutted dcoe- it has been bored out to be 45mm in the throttle plate area, and the throttle shaft has been thinned and the screws sunk to be nearly level with the shaft, and the shoulder of the shaft has been blended into the
throat as best I could

Also, the t/b was matched as well as possible to the manifold, which ends up
having a d-shape

The short radius entry was my first attempt at making my own, as I found that
the "stock" weber air horns were restricting the flow, as in the engine made more power with them off- the horns were too long for the air cleaner, so I made the first one, and it was so short that there was interference between the attaching nut and the horn- so, I had to cut some scallops in it to get it
to fit. The taller one fit fine, except the throat diameter was a bit too small- I was going to make a new matching set that fit properly and then never got around to it, as I acquired the weber 48 idf and have been working on that.

Are there more than one casting of that adaptor? Mine looks much different on the outside.

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="[picasaweb.google.com] src="[lh6.googleusercontent.com]; height="640" width="473" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="[picasaweb.google.com] Spyder</a></td></tr></table>

Sam Russell
Durham NC
1962 Monza Wagon Ted Brown EFI Gen II
1964 Spyder coupe

He's had to weld his up!

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
...............110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

Spyderman- thanks for posting the picture of your "stock" manifold- mine used to look just like yours! mine has been welded on and re-shaped 5 separate times- the last time I cut that flat plate away between where the carb throats mount, and then made a v-shaped piece that fit tightly in the remainder of the
v, then had that piece welded in, then cut away what I didn't want. I've been
working on that manifold on and off since 2003!

Any dyno numbers?

Rocco

Rocco-
I don't have any dyno numbers, yet!!- Once I get the efi up and running, I will
have to get it on a dyno to really get the timing and fuel dialed in. I had done some 0-60 test's only changing the manifold and found a .3 sec improvement. I never did the 0-60 test after taking the long weber air horns off, however, once I did that I was getting 5psi in first gear by idling along
and just smashing the gas- I hadn't been able to get the car to do that before.

Kevin

Here's a couple of pictures of my engine compartment, without the fuel rails installed yet, showing the then new coil pack mounting location. I had originally had the coil pack mounted where the spare tire mount originally was.
Although I wasn't exactly thrilled with mounting it there, it did have the advantage of utilizing bolt holes originally for the spare tire mount. This new
location was much more difficult to solidly mount the coil pack, but ended up being worth it to me, as it created more usable room in the spare tire area for
water injection, and extra electrical stuff yet to be mounted. The main difficulty with using the back location is that the coil pack is wider than the rear brace, and needs adapters that are wide enough to bolt to the coil pack bolt holes, and then needs to be skinny enough to bolt somehow to that rear brace. I thought I could use suitably large sheet metal bolts but was not
impressed with how easy it was to strip the bolts. After investigating a bunch of different types of inserts (and finding them lacking), I decided to drill through the rear brace and use extra long socket head cap screws. Those machined aluminum adapter mounts under the coil aint going ANYWHERE, they are down solid!

Here's one more engine compartment picture with the fuel rails installed

closer and closer!!

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
...............110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo