Digging around for parts today. Found this! A long 140 NOS manifold. Didnt remember I had it. This matches with the short 140 NOS manifiold I got from acardon not too far back. Just what I was looking for for the engine rebuild for my '63 Rampy.

Working on some 80HP NOS heads. They have had the head gasket step partially milled down already. Cutting the spring pockets to take regular double springs vs the single spring small ones they were meant for.

I am setting up to recast some harmonic balancers.

New transmission mounts for the new '66. Think these are shot?

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 116 Corvairs and counting...

292857 posts here! If I could just borrow 30 seconds from each post here... I could get ALL my projects completed!!!



Corventure Dave

corventure Dave Wrote:
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> 292857 posts here! If I could just borrow 30 seconds from each post here... I could get ALL my projects completed!!!
>
>
>
> Corventure Dave

If I had ten cents for each of those posts, I could build a decent garage.
If I had a dollar for each one, I could build one heck of a garage with a detached house.

1962 95 F.C. Van
1964 Greenbrier Deluxe
1965 Monza Coupe
1965 Monza Convertible
Westminster, Maryland

MID ENG enthusiast &
prior Kelmark owner.

Caraholic4life Wrote:
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>
>
> If I had ten cents for each of those posts, I could build a decent garage.
> If I had a dollar for each one, I could build one heck of a garage with a detached house.


Forget the detached house.
I just want a 20 car garage with a studio loft unit, floor to ceiling window to look down on my domain.

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WA. state, 1 mile south of the Canadian border, I am not at the end of the world, but you can see it from here.

That's what I'm working on.

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 116 Corvairs and counting...

Replaced the clutch cable that was parting with Roger Parent's cable and pulley. Took the opportunity to move the wire on the headlight switch so front parking lights stay on when headlights are on, cleaning some corrosion off the switch terminals while I was at it. Started it up after checking for gas leaks post jet change. 1 turn on the driver's side carb link and adjusted idle mixtures. Cleaned and lubricated high/low beam switch. Needs a bath as our kitties do gymnastics on it after they use the litterbox. Out of group yellow, back in group green.

Greg Miller
Eugene, Oregon

Repaired the LH carburetor on my latest '66. It had fuel in the float and the float spring was missing. I filed the venturi cluster flat. It was really warped. It idles great at 400rpm now.

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 116 Corvairs and counting...

Purchased a new mechanical pump from a great vendor and thought I would share what additional work was needed to make it right.

The pump is a USA made pump and as I have mentioned before, just because you buy a new in the box part does not mean it is ready to go. Those days are long gone and as an aftermarket part and we should expect to have to disassemble and inspect it. I am not faulting the vendor for this and just appreciate the fact that it is still available.

As expected, none of the surfaces were even close to flat. I had to lathe the base and sand both sides of the valve body section on the granite plate to fix that issue. Now the pieces all fit together nice and flat as they should.

The mount bolt hole in the base was not drilled deep enough and the tapered bolt barely made contact in it which made it rock and roll in the housing. The OD of that section was also smaller than normal but was still okay. I ground a center drill to match the taper of the mount bolt and re-drilled the hole and now the pump is rock solid in the housing.

Regan Metcalf
Portland, OR

Pictures of the re-drilled boss.

Regan Metcalf
Portland, OR

After foolishly tearing down my turbo in April before checking on parts availability.....
I finally reassembled it and installed it where it belongs two days ago.
Only a carelessly cracked fuel filter prevented me from firing it up. So it sits pre-oiled with the timing set to start and run.
Filter due in three days. Will pre-oil again before starting.
Had it running on HV's with an old 95 hp distributor over the summer. Looking forward to the torque the turbo provided.

S. Vellani
Bellevue, NE
65 Monza Convertible 180/4-speed

What did you end up doing to the turbo itself"

I think you'll find the STOCK turbo setup is not much for usable Torque..

HP / Accel at the top of 3rd and 4th gears only

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
...............110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

S. Vellani your dipstick tube looks like it is in upside down. It is sticking up way to far. The 140 hp tubes (yes they are different) have a bulge/ridge in the tube at the top that looks the same as the bottom end that stops it from going too far into the crankcase. The 140 tube has an extra bend at the top so that the dipstick will clear the air cleaner cross over with the 4 carbs. The bottom part that goes into the crankcase is longer than the top part so if it is put in upside down the dipstick will be held up by approx. an inch. The tube probably has a small vent hole either just above or below the shroud that is suppose to help keep oil from being pushed up the tube when it is mounted the correct way.

RJ tools
Salem,Oregon

I reinstalled my turbo induction system after 8+ months of parts delays. Run up was surprisingly flawless for a car that usually fights me. To wet and salty to feel good about road testing. That will have to wait a few days.
The turbine shaft seal ring was loose in the bearing housing the first time around and missed the oversized surface. School boy error....
See photo. I have mixed feelings about loosing the wonderful Bat mobile-like intermittent smoke screening effect for those unlucky enough to be following me.

S. Vellani
Bellevue, NE
65 Monza Convertible 180/4-speed

RexJohnson,
You have a sharp eye! That is a hand made dipstick tube that the machinist made when the case was assembled. I trimmed and marked a generic dipstick to read correctly. No issues with oil coming up the tube.
Never having an engine missing the tube I now have been educated. Thanks! One more thing on my engine inspection and assembly list.
This 1966 engine came disassembled in boxes with a three car take everything or nothing purchase that included a relatively rust free 1965 Corsa turbo coupe and two other Corvairs. One of them packed to the roof with this engine, another early turbo engine that was scattered pretty badly. Webber carb kit for turbo, rejetted q-jet and 140 adapter plus some Crown parts and two transaxles.
The Corsa is my next restoration project as it is quite complete to start with.
Sergio

S. Vellani
Bellevue, NE
65 Monza Convertible 180/4-speed

Matt,
I missed an oversized bearing housing surface the first time around. So the objective was to replace the leaking turbine shaft seal ring. Since I had gone through it well the first time all it needed was a good used bearing housing which a machine shop promptly destroyed by sand blasting the seal surface. I specifically told them not to do that. Saving it to have it resized if possible.
I soaked and cleaned the next housing over a month since parts were not available. Naturally the current housing had been manufactured on the opposite end of the tolerance stacking spectrum from the original. Had to wet sand the mating ring side of the bearing 0.0035" to use my thinnest bearing shim.
Fun fact. If you live in Nebraska in the winter and the level surface you are wet sanding on is in the garage. You need to let everything acclimate to the indoor temperature each time you measure the bearing to housing end play after you sand off a thousandth. Otherwise it grows with the increase in heat and you start to think you or your dial indicator is going nuts. Shrinkage due to the cold is a reality.
Sergio

S. Vellani
Bellevue, NE
65 Monza Convertible 180/4-speed

Disappointing day. Rebuilt turbo back on car last week and ran it up and runs great. (originally it was pouring oil past the turbine shaft seal). Weather permitted a road test today. Boost seems slightly less than before the rebuild but no oil smoke. Drove 20 miles of mixed driving then stopped for gas. Waiting at a red light afterwards I noticed a tiny bit of oil smoke that stopped as soon as I rolled on the throttle.
Leaving a 25 mph zone I rolled on the throttle and blew a ton of oil smoke through 2nd gear and it cleared up. Hammered it onto the freeway clear for another 15 miles.
Back home I double checked the timing and at idle it began smoking like a train again! Would not clear out with rpm. I put it away before I got angry.
This engine has 3200 miles on it. Ray Sedman did the heads. New pistons, rings, everything.
When I was running it normally aspirated it made smoke after idling for long periods of time but it was intermittent. PCV tube is clean, orifice measures good. Compression and leakdown excellent. Plugs look good too.
I am thinking (and I'm using the term loosely here) either my turbo has sprung the same or a new leak, or oil is getting past the intake guides. I will yank the carb and turbo to see what it looks like. If it's clean then what? This is not my first Corvair rebuild. Have done five of them over the years but this is my first turbo engine.
So, Any ideas?

S. Vellani
Bellevue, NE
65 Monza Convertible 180/4-speed