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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: davemotohead ()
Date: January 18, 2013 07:41AM

You dont need to check dwell with the perteronix,,get it running good with points,,then install pertronix and set timming correct,,thats all you do!

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: shawno77 ()
Date: January 18, 2013 01:29PM

Dave,
dont want to hijack thread but since we are on pertronix....
Quick question Pertronix 1 installation.

Installed the other day. Wired direct to coil, (65 140).
Had trouble getting it started and car always starts great. Got it running, set timing with vacum hose plugged.drove it and it ran great. Got back home wouldnt start. Finnaly started and it ran great. got home and wouldnt start. so put points back in.

I didnt check voltage at coil(did install new flaps coil).

Do you think resistor wire is bad and its not getting enough voltage to start?
What should I try first, dont want to ruin unit. My dads car has a per 1 wired direct to coil and it always ran great.

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: Corvairscott ()
Date: January 18, 2013 02:16PM

Larry Claypool wrote an article in Corsa Communique about Petronix II not working right at idle. He found that it was firing on half the cylinders only at idle. Petronix admitted to the problem only with their 6cyl P II version. The Petronix I didn't have this problem. At first I had P 1 liked it, then got lots of P2 units. Maybe they fixed this problem by now, or you got a bad one?

Scott Szalkowski

San Diego, CA

Corvairscott@aol.com


I never met a Corvair I didn't like.....12 corvairs!

1961 Rampside, 2 1961 Lakewoods
1962 Monza (Canadian) 1962 Rampside Deluxe
1962 or 63 Spyder, 1962 coupe, 1964 convertible,
1965 Monza w AC, 1965 Corsa, 1965 MonzAvenger BSS
(Bud Short Special)

Oh yah...196? Covair van...also a corvair dune buggy!

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: Gregory_Miller ()
Date: January 18, 2013 02:28PM

The resistance wire should be bypassed when cranking, allowing a full 12V at the coil, but because of cranking losses, might be a bit less. Once the car is in "run", the resistance wire comes into play and you should see less voltage at the coil. Sometimes, the Pert will be happy with the reduced voltage, sometimes not. Lon at Corvair Underground has stated many times he's had no issues with the P1 wired this way. I can't recall if he's used the P2. Maybe he will chime in if he see his name. I got a P1 and it was also a tight air gap and I added some extra adjustment to the slot so I could set gap as specified, ran a bypass wire to provide full 12V at all times to the P1 only, leaving stock resistance wire for coil intact, had all sorts of problems, went back to points.
Not at all like my experience in late 70s-early 80s with whatever brand I had back then, I installed that, wired directly to coil, re-set timing and never messed with it again. Always carried a spare points plate set-up with me, never needed it.

Greg Miller
Eugene, Oregon

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: davemotohead ()
Date: January 18, 2013 04:33PM

Corvairscott Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Larry Claypool wrote an article in Corsa
> Communique about Petronix II not working right at
> idle. He found that it was firing on half the
> cylinders only at idle. Petronix admitted to the
> problem only with their 6cyl P II version. The
> Petronix I didn't have this problem. At first I
> had P 1 liked it, then got lots of P2 units. Maybe
> they fixed this problem by now, or you got a bad
> one?
------------------------------------------------------
I beleive this problem was only on PG cars and when in gear,,I remember reading if the idle was raised some the problem went away,,I have the pert 1 and 2 both wired right to the coil and have never had a problem,,The problem arises when the resistance wire breaks down and delivers less than 8 volts to the coil,,then a bypass wire is needed,,per my conversation with pertronix.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
IGNITOR II TESTS
(DO NOT USE SOLID CORE SPARK PLUG WIRES)
Carl Alcocer 4/6/2011
• The Ignitor II can’t be field tested. Make sure all grounds and voltages are good and
remove or bypass all external ballast resistors or resistance wire.
• Ignitor II “MUST” be grounded properly to the distributor housing.
• Distributor Housing needs to be grounded PROPERLY to the engine or intake.
• Check contact surface area of distributor “Hold down Bracket” for proper ground.
It is imperative that the power and grounds be checked as part of the installation procedure.
After installing the kit within the distributor and with the distributor in the engine, using a digital
multi-meter measure the resistance from the aluminum plate holding the module to battery (-)
terminal. The net resistance must be less than 0.2 ohms. The net resistance is the meter
reading minus the resistance of the meter leads. If the net resistance is greater than 0.2 ohms
the source of the faulty ground must be found and fixed. Usually the source of the bad ground
is easily found by holding one probe on an original location and moving the second probe
toward the static probe. Where the resistance drops identifies the source.
Maximum Resistance from Ignitor II plate to Battery (-) Terminal. 0.2 ohms
EXAMPLE:
Resistance from Ignitor Plate to Battery (-) Terminal. 0.4 ohms
Resistance of meter leads. (-) 0.2 ohms
After subtracting meter lead resistance, your total resistance is: (=) 0.2 ohms
Voltage Test
1. Install your stock coil for this test.
2. Place ignition switch in the off position.
3. Do not disconnect wires from ignition coil.
4. Use jumper wire (With alligator clips on both ends)
5. Connect jumper wire from negative (-) terminal of coil to a good engine ground (See
Figure 2).
6. Connect voltmeter red lead to positive (+) terminal of coil and black lead to engine
ground (See Figure 2).
7. Turn “ON” the ignition switch and note voltage reading. Quickly read voltage and turn
ignition “off”. See chart below for specifications.
8. Remove jumper wire or engine will not start.
Minimum Normal Maximum
Ignition Switch “ON”, Engine “off” 8.0V 11.5V N/A
Engine Cranking 8.0V 9.6V or
Greater
N/A
Engine Running N/A 14.2V 16.0V
Note: When resistors are NOT present, you should have a normal voltage reading or close to
it. Low voltage can be caused by poor connections, poor contacts in the ignition switch, ballast
resistor, and or a resistance wire in the wiring harness (Factory Installed).
IGNITOR II TESTS
(DO NOT USE SOLID CORE SPARK PLUG WIRES)
Carl Alcocer 4/6/2011
OTHER CHECKS
• Do not use solid core spark plug wires, including coil wire.
• Make sure the tach is not grounding the (-) negative terminal of the coil, remove tach
wire if necessary for testing and see if engine starts.
• Install a known “good” coil to verify that new coil is “good”.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
David,

The minimum Voltage is 8 volts and the maximum is 16 volts.

The Ignitor and the Ignitor II will run as long as the voltage doesn’t drop too much. If the engine starts to run poor, bypass the resistance wire.

Carl Alcocer

PerTronix Performance Products

909-273-6007 www.pertronix.com







1960 4dr sedan caveman car
1961 Rampside (Chetside)
1962 Rampside (Barnside)
1962 Short Rampside (Shortside)
1962 Monza 700 Wagon
1963 Monza 900 coup (General Nader)

-----------------------------------
Rust Free Lancaster Ca

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: jimmyo ()
Date: January 18, 2013 04:58PM

Whenever the Pertronix topic comes up, The pert1 and pert2 get lumped together. They have different needs and installation. Thank you Dave for posting the pert2 instructions. Here's the pert1 instruction and the a diagram of the pert2 install...


1. Turn the ignition switch off or disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Do not disconnect the spark plug
wires.
3. Examine the cap and rotor for wear or damage. Replace as needed.
4. Remove the points, condenser, and grommet.
5. The Ignitor does not require any modification to the distributor. Therefore
the points, condenser and hardware can be used as backup.
6. Clean any oil or dirt from the breaker plate and point cam.
7. Install the Ignitor plate onto the breaker plate, and fasten Ignitor plate in
place.
8. If the distributor ground wire was removed during the installation process,
be sure to re-attach it securely.
9. Install the magnet sleeve over distributor shaft and onto the point cam.
Rotate sleeve until a slight locating position is felt before applying
pressure. With sleeve lined up on point cam, press down firmly insuring
the sleeve is fully seated.
10. Insert both wires through the hole in the distributor housing. Pull the
grommet into place. Make sure that the wires do not interfere with any
moving parts.
11. Replace the rotor and distributor cap. Make sure that all spark plug wires
are attached securely.
12. Connect the Ignitor black wire to the negative (-) side of the ignition coil.
13. Connect the Ignitor red wire to the positive (+) side of the ignition coil.
14. Reconnect the battery and make sure all wires are connected correctly.
15. The engine can now be started. Let the engine run for a few minutes and
then set the timing in the conventional manner.
0000 00
Q. What is the first thing I should check if the engine would not start?
A. Make certain all wires are connected securely to the proper terminals.
Q. The engine will not start or runs rough. Are there any tests that I can do?
A. Yes, remove the red Ignitorâ„¢ wire from the coil positive terminal. Connect a jumper wire from
the positive side of the battery directly to the red Ignitorâ„¢ wire. If the engine starts and runs
well, you may have a low voltage problem. Remember this is just a test and not intended for
permanent installation. Read “ How to correct a low voltage poblem”
Q. How to correct a low voltage problem?
A. First, if you have an external ballast resistor, connect the red Ignitorâ„¢ wire to the ignition wire
prior to the ballast resistor. Second, if you do not have a ballast resistor you must locate a 12
volt source that is controlled by the ignition switch to connect the red Ignitorâ„¢ wire to.
Q. What type of coil can I use?
A. The Ignitorâ„¢ is compatible only with a "points style" coil.
Q. What happens if I leave the ignition switch on when the engine is not
running?
A. This can cause you coil to overheat, which may cause permanent damage to the coil and the
Ignitorâ„¢.
Q. May I modify the length of the Ignitorâ„¢ wires?
A. Yes, you may cut the wires to any length your application may require. You may also add
lengths of wire if needed (20 gauge wire). Please make sure all wire splice are clean and
connections are secure.
Q. Will the shift interrupter on an OMC stern drive boat work with the Ignitorâ„¢?
A. The Ignitor is compatible with all OMC stern drive applications, when equipped with a "diode
fix". If you purchased a kit that does not include the "diode fix" diagram, call our tech line.
Q. How can I get additional help?
A. Call our tech line (909 599 5955) for any further instructions or questions. You may also
logon to www.pertronix.com for the latest technical information

Jim O'Connor
45 miles north of The Bronx, N.Y.
1962 Greenbrier 110 4spd
1964 Monza Convertible 110 PG
"Wherever you go....There you are"

<a href="[s1166.photobucket.com]; target="_blank"><img src="[i1166.photobucket.com]; border="0" alt=" photo 045ef0c8-2087-4eac-8a5d-9aa0d575d5e0_zps9946d378.jpg"/></a>
<a href="[s1166.photobucket.com]; target="_blank"><img src="[i1166.photobucket.com]; border="0" alt=" photo e1227532-1d1b-4c27-b9b3-ab7c1e338ee9_zpsoelhfofz.jpg"/></a>



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/18/2013 05:00PM by jimmyo.

Attachments:
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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: davemotohead ()
Date: January 18, 2013 05:28PM

Pertronix send you those diagrams Jim? Funny thing I guess about this subject is the story from pertrionix seems to have changed over the years,,I have both Pertronix 1 and 2 units,,I bought the 1 unit 20 sumpthin years ago,,I have all of them wired right to the coil with the eyelet rings on the ends of the units wires that funny enough,,are the perfect length to reach the coil post,,mine have run flawless like this for years without even a hiccup and I have swaped the units from car to car and have never had any issues at all,,I guess its all the luck of the draw with these things,,I have never had one fail! that being said I probly Jynx myself and they will all smoke themselfs tomorrow!smoking smiley







1960 4dr sedan caveman car
1961 Rampside (Chetside)
1962 Rampside (Barnside)
1962 Short Rampside (Shortside)
1962 Monza 700 Wagon
1963 Monza 900 coup (General Nader)

-----------------------------------
Rust Free Lancaster Ca

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: bill darcy ()
Date: January 18, 2013 05:37PM

This is why I like GM HEI.Cheap to do,works great and parts are available everywhere.

In the Hub City, Belen NM

Lead from behind..... get left in the dust
"I have not failed I've just found ten thousand ways that won't work" Thomas Edison

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: lugog ()
Date: January 18, 2013 05:39PM

Thanks for the diagram! From my testing tonight, it turns out the coil is giving me the problems. I used stock points and stock coil and had it idling ok. I measured the voltage at the positive side of the coil 10-11v while running. So it must have the resistor.

Then I removed the stock coil, put in the ignitor 2 coil - hooked the negative to the distributor and ran the positive side straight to the battery via a jumper (not connected to the stock wiring on the positive side). After this, I had a rough idle and it would stall out!!

So I'll probably swap in another 12v coil. Msd blasters 12v from autozone have worked well for me in the past on VW. From the diagram looks like you can run ignitor 2 with the stock coil (middle diagram) which I wondered. I don't think they have that arrangement in their installation instructions, maybe I missed it.





jimmyo Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Whenever the Pertronix topic comes up, The pert1
> and pert2 get lumped together. They have different
> needs and installation. Thank you Dave for posting
> the pert2 instructions. Here's the pert1
> instruction and the a diagram of the pert2
> install...
>
>
> 1. Turn the ignition switch off or disconnect the
> battery.
> 2. Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Do not
> disconnect the spark plug
> wires.
> 3. Examine the cap and rotor for wear or damage.
> Replace as needed.
> 4. Remove the points, condenser, and grommet.
> 5. The Ignitor does not require any modification
> to the distributor. Therefore
> the points, condenser and hardware can be used as
> backup.
> 6. Clean any oil or dirt from the breaker plate
> and point cam.
> 7. Install the Ignitor plate onto the breaker
> plate, and fasten Ignitor plate in
> place.
> 8. If the distributor ground wire was removed
> during the installation process,
> be sure to re-attach it securely.
> 9. Install the magnet sleeve over distributor
> shaft and onto the point cam.
> Rotate sleeve until a slight locating position is
> felt before applying
> pressure. With sleeve lined up on point cam, press
> down firmly insuring
> the sleeve is fully seated.
> 10. Insert both wires through the hole in the
> distributor housing. Pull the
> grommet into place. Make sure that the wires do
> not interfere with any
> moving parts.
> 11. Replace the rotor and distributor cap. Make
> sure that all spark plug wires
> are attached securely.
> 12. Connect the Ignitor black wire to the negative
> (-) side of the ignition coil.
> 13. Connect the Ignitor red wire to the positive
> (+) side of the ignition coil.
> 14. Reconnect the battery and make sure all wires
> are connected correctly.
> 15. The engine can now be started. Let the engine
> run for a few minutes and
> then set the timing in the conventional manner.
> 0000 00
> Q. What is the first thing I should check if the
> engine would not start?
> A. Make certain all wires are connected securely
> to the proper terminals.
> Q. The engine will not start or runs rough. Are
> there any tests that I can do?
> A. Yes, remove the red Ignitorâ„¢ wire from the
> coil positive terminal. Connect a jumper wire
> from
> the positive side of the battery directly to the
> red Ignitorâ„¢ wire. If the engine starts and
> runs
> well, you may have a low voltage problem. Remember
> this is just a test and not intended for
> permanent installation. Read “ How to correct a
> low voltage poblem”
> Q. How to correct a low voltage problem?
> A. First, if you have an external ballast
> resistor, connect the red Ignitorâ„¢ wire to the
> ignition wire
> prior to the ballast resistor. Second, if you do
> not have a ballast resistor you must locate a 12
> volt source that is controlled by the ignition
> switch to connect the red Ignitorâ„¢ wire to.
> Q. What type of coil can I use?
> A. The Ignitorâ„¢ is compatible only with a
> "points style" coil.
> Q. What happens if I leave the ignition switch on
> when the engine is not
> running?
> A. This can cause you coil to overheat, which may
> cause permanent damage to the coil and the
> Ignitorâ„¢.
> Q. May I modify the length of the Ignitorâ„¢
> wires?
> A. Yes, you may cut the wires to any length your
> application may require. You may also add
> lengths of wire if needed (20 gauge wire). Please
> make sure all wire splice are clean and
> connections are secure.
> Q. Will the shift interrupter on an OMC stern
> drive boat work with the Ignitorâ„¢?
> A. The Ignitor is compatible with all OMC stern
> drive applications, when equipped with a "diode
> fix". If you purchased a kit that does not include
> the "diode fix" diagram, call our tech line.
> Q. How can I get additional help?
> A. Call our tech line (909 599 5955) for any
> further instructions or questions. You may also
> logon to www.pertronix.com for the latest
> technical information

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: jimmyo ()
Date: January 18, 2013 05:44PM

I found it online, I think it was a vette forum. I don't think it's luck. I think some of the "issues" that come up are from hacked up corroded wiring with bad grounds. The info you posted for the Pert2 and the Info I posted for the Pert one and diagram spells it out. I'll repeat a another good point you made messing around with the pert1 or pert2 with bad wiring can ruin your pertronix box. Get the wiring sorted out first!

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: lugog ()
Date: January 19, 2013 05:15PM

I just bought an msd blaster 2 coil. I connected a wire from the positive to the battery (new wire good connection). Then the negative side to the distributor. I started and it's missing a lot, until it stalls out.

What is going on??

1) the package was already opened I found out when I got home, so it's possible this coil was returned (arg!!)

2) other thought I had was that maybe the outside of the coil needs a good ground via the holder

3) maybe the condenser is not meant to operate at this voltage??

What am I missing here?

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: lugog ()
Date: January 19, 2013 05:22PM

Found this: MSD Blaster 2



Re: MSD Blaster II Coil - Blast my engine? smiling smiley
Posted by: aircooled ()
Date: July 23, 2010 08:20AM

They work fine, just don't feed it a full 12v, that will fry the points.

If you later upgrade to a Pertronix or the like, you can then feed it a full 12v without any fear of harm.




So sounds like my test with these high output coils against the points is not a good!!







lugog Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I just bought an msd blaster 2 coil. I connected a
> wire from the positive to the battery (new wire
> good connection). Then the negative side to the
> distributor. I started and it's missing a lot,
> until it stalls out.
>
> What is going on??
>
> 1) the package was already opened I found out when
> I got home, so it's possible this coil was
> returned (arg!!)
>
> 2) other thought I had was that maybe the outside
> of the coil needs a good ground via the holder
>
> 3) maybe the condenser is not meant to operate at
> this voltage??
>
> What am I missing here?

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: lugog ()
Date: January 19, 2013 06:01PM

New test -->

+full 12 volts directly from battery to msd blaster coil.
+ignitor 2 installed, using full 12 volts at ignition coil

adjusted the timing to 12 degrees after installing
placed into gear and it runs rough and stalls out

Next I turned the idle speed to 1100 (1 full turn in on each side roughly), put into gear and got a solid 670.

While in gear turned the idle speed back down to about 610 and it started acting as if it was not firing all six cylinders. Then turned the idle back up and it was fine.

------------------------------------------------------

Someone else mentioned on autos that they had to bump up the idle on their car and I'd like to say I have the same experience. Who wants a high idle like that?? :/

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: lugog ()
Date: January 19, 2013 06:09PM

other mention had to raise idle speed on pertronics

Re: Finally Removed my Pertronix II
Posted by: NICKG ()
Date: December 08, 2012 08:37PM

Larry Claypool did a tech article on a problem with the Pert II a while back I believe where the car will idle in drive and then drop about 300 rpm to about 350 rpm and almost stall out. It is intermittent and then will increase back up to around 650 rpm which is the factory setting I have mine set at...I have experienced this with my 64 110 pg car. I have Pert II's in all three of my Corvairs and just the one has this problem. I had to increase the idle speed about 100 or so rpm to keep it running where it wouldn't stall out when the rpm drop occurred. Larry cornered a Pertronix rep at a show somewhere but they wouldn't admit to the problem. Larry told me to either try another Pert II unit or switch back to points

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: jimmyo ()
Date: January 19, 2013 06:22PM

The msd blaster2 specs are almost the same. It has a higher internal resistance, thus No resistor wire. You need to start fresh, follow the step by step tests to check voltage and ground, that Dave posted. It's pretty common for the distributor ground to be poor. It relies on the hold down clamp to the engine, and if the engine ground is weak (a lot are). "It is imperative that the power and grounds be checked as part of the installation procedure.
After installing the kit within the distributor and with the distributor in the engine, using a digital
multi-meter measure the resistance from the aluminum plate holding the module to battery (-)
terminal. The net resistance must be less than 0.2 ohms. The net resistance is the meter
reading minus the resistance of the meter leads. If the net resistance is greater than 0.2 ohms
the source of the faulty ground must be found and fixed. Usually the source of the bad ground
is easily found by holding one probe on an original location and moving the second probe
toward the static probe. Where the resistance drops identifies the source.
Maximum Resistance from Ignitor II plate to Battery (-) Terminal. 0.2 ohms"

For laughs I just connected a ground wire from the plate to a good chassis ground.

Jim O'Connor
45 miles north of The Bronx, N.Y.
1962 Greenbrier 110 4spd
1964 Monza Convertible 110 PG
"Wherever you go....There you are"

<a href="[s1166.photobucket.com]; target="_blank"><img src="[i1166.photobucket.com]; border="0" alt=" photo 045ef0c8-2087-4eac-8a5d-9aa0d575d5e0_zps9946d378.jpg"/></a>
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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: lugog ()
Date: January 19, 2013 06:41PM

Thanks. I will run a ground from the plate directly to the battery to test I don't expect anything different, sorry I'm a bit skeptical.

Here are two videos..

Video with idle at 1100 and idle in gear of 670

just under 670 idle and it doesn't fire correctly



jimmyo Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The msd blaster2 specs are almost the same. It has
> a higher internal resistance, thus No resistor
> wire. You need to start fresh, follow the step by
> step tests to check voltage and ground, that Dave
> posted. It's pretty common for the distributor
> ground to be poor. It relies on the hold down
> clamp to the engine, and if the engine ground is
> weak (a lot are). "It is imperative that the power
> and grounds be checked as part of the installation
> procedure.
> After installing the kit within the distributor
> and with the distributor in the engine, using a
> digital
> multi-meter measure the resistance from the
> aluminum plate holding the module to battery (-)
> terminal. The net resistance must be less than 0.2
> ohms. The net resistance is the meter
> reading minus the resistance of the meter leads.
> If the net resistance is greater than 0.2 ohms
> the source of the faulty ground must be found and
> fixed. Usually the source of the bad ground
> is easily found by holding one probe on an
> original location and moving the second probe
> toward the static probe. Where the resistance
> drops identifies the source.
> Maximum Resistance from Ignitor II plate to
> Battery (-) Terminal. 0.2 ohms"
>
> For laughs I just connected a ground wire from the
> plate to a good chassis ground.

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: jimmyo ()
Date: January 19, 2013 07:01PM

Lugog, If it faulters when you increase the load, I would think the unit isn't getting enough power.

Jim O'Connor
45 miles north of The Bronx, N.Y.
1962 Greenbrier 110 4spd
1964 Monza Convertible 110 PG
"Wherever you go....There you are"

<a href="[s1166.photobucket.com]; target="_blank"><img src="[i1166.photobucket.com]; border="0" alt=" photo 045ef0c8-2087-4eac-8a5d-9aa0d575d5e0_zps9946d378.jpg"/></a>
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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: lugog ()
Date: January 19, 2013 07:05PM

NO DICE, I tried with a fresh wire from plate to the battery (to test for bad ground) and it runs exactly as reported before. So using a wire from plate to the battery negative and wire from the positive side of the coil directly to the battery and there is not much else to go wrong besides pointing to a problem with the system...

here's a video where it shows the idle cut down to 300 rpms, exactly like someone reported.

with ground from plate directly to the battery, 300 rpms


Re: Finally Removed my Pertronix II
Posted by: NICKG ()
Date: December 08, 2012 08:37PM

Larry Claypool did a tech article on a problem with the Pert II a while back I believe where the car will idle in drive and then drop about 300 rpm to about 350 rpm and almost stall out. It is intermittent and then will increase back up to around 650 rpm which is the factory setting I have mine set at...I have experienced this with my 64 110 pg car. I have Pert II's in all three of my Corvairs and just the one has this problem. I had to increase the idle speed about 100 or so rpm to keep it running where it wouldn't stall out when the rpm drop occurred. Larry cornered a Pertronix rep at a show somewhere but they wouldn't admit to the problem. Larry told me to either try another Pert II unit or switch back to points

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: jimmyo ()
Date: January 19, 2013 07:19PM

Seems like you covered it all, unless someone else has any Ideas, maybe you got one of the old defective units. After I installed mine with a rebuilt distributor I had to make my mixture a little leaner and slow my idle down. But I think that was due to the old dist, not the pert2

Jim O'Connor
45 miles north of The Bronx, N.Y.
1962 Greenbrier 110 4spd
1964 Monza Convertible 110 PG
"Wherever you go....There you are"

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Re: pertronix ignitor 2 installed and not working - dwell all over the board
Posted by: lugog ()
Date: January 19, 2013 07:31PM

Thanks for the ideas/suggestions. This unit has to be defective, or just a problem with pert2. Do you have a PG by the way?

Just one last test, I ran a volt meter and held the idle up just a little bit then let it sink down. When it goes to 300 rpm again the voltage drops down, but before then it's holding 14v pretty solid.

Running at the bad speed 14v at 670 rpm, 13sh at 300 rpm

jimmyo Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Seems like you covered it all, unless someone else
> has any Ideas, maybe you got one of the old
> defective units. After I installed mine with a
> rebuilt distributor I had to make my mixture a
> little leaner and slow my idle down. But I think
> that was due to the old dist, not the pert2

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