richard1 Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> That is why you can see the whole corner cut off
> mine, then patched and put back.
Yeah, that's something I hope to avoid, as it might not get put back on straight and might fall off later! Anyway, once you weld it back on, you cannot access the corner from the inside. ;-}

<table align='center' width='0'>
<tr>
<td><img src='[www.automation-scs.com]; alt='1962 Corvair 900 sedan' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[corvaircenter.com]; alt='1967 Corvair Monza 140/4-speed' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[corvaircenter.com]; alt='1968 Corvair 500 coupe' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[www.automation-scs.com]; alt='1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0' width='190' /></td>
<td><a href='[www.automation-scs.com&]; target='_blank'></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1962 900 sedan needs a home</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1967 Monza 140/4-spd</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1968 500 coupe (now my son's)</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0</font></td>
</tr>
</table>

Making progress on floor and doors. :-)

The middle and rear sections of the floor are just about ready for Rust Bullet.
Started scraping the right-front floor. There was rust under a lot of the body putty and the black paint (repainted at some point?).

Q: There is some residual body sealer that won't scrape off. What's the best CHEAP solvent to remove this stuff?

Got the patch for left driver's door made and hole cut to receive it.
I plan to hold the patch in place with two welding magnets, then position it as needed with judicious hammer strikes once it's tacked down a bit.

The inside is pretty rusty, and this corner of door is not very accessible from inside. The Rust Bullet FAQs state "After curing, all Rust Bullet coatings have a service temperature range of 314°F (157°C) continuous, and can tolerate maximum temperatures between 617°- 662°F (325°-350°C) for up to 72 hour periods."

Q: Can I paint Rust Bullet on the inside of the patch area BEFORE welding the patch on so I know it's really sealed? I would touch up after welding.

Q: What is the best way to dimple the welds in this case (slightly curved surface in one direction) without warping the metal? Please specify which tool/body hammer is best and describe the technique used.










<table align='center' width='0'>
<tr>
<td><img src='[www.automation-scs.com]; alt='1962 Corvair 900 sedan' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[corvaircenter.com]; alt='1967 Corvair Monza 140/4-speed' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[corvaircenter.com]; alt='1968 Corvair 500 coupe' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[www.automation-scs.com]; alt='1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0' width='190' /></td>
<td><a href='[www.automation-scs.com&]; target='_blank'></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1962 900 sedan needs a home</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1967 Monza 140/4-spd</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1968 500 coupe (now my son's)</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0</font></td>
</tr>
</table>

Vacuumed out driver door and applied RustMort to rusty area, poured some into the bottom of door hoping it will help.

Spent hours rust removal from floor using scrapers, wire wheels and sanding disc angle grinder for the real work. Almost ready for the Rust Bullet. Man, am I tired! Dontcha just love the taste of rust, paint and other guck in your mouth? Hah-hah.

<table align='center' width='0'>
<tr>
<td><img src='[www.automation-scs.com]; alt='1962 Corvair 900 sedan' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[corvaircenter.com]; alt='1967 Corvair Monza 140/4-speed' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[corvaircenter.com]; alt='1968 Corvair 500 coupe' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[www.automation-scs.com]; alt='1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0' width='190' /></td>
<td><a href='[www.automation-scs.com&]; target='_blank'></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1962 900 sedan needs a home</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1967 Monza 140/4-spd</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1968 500 coupe (now my son's)</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0</font></td>
</tr>
</table>

Quote
lgoodwin
Dontcha just love the taste of rust, paint and other guck in your mouth?

Time to get the lead out, Luke!


Kevin
Medina, OH

flamingchariots Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Time to get the lead out, Luke!
Har-de-har-har!

<table align='center' width='0'>
<tr>
<td><img src='[www.automation-scs.com]; alt='1962 Corvair 900 sedan' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[corvaircenter.com]; alt='1967 Corvair Monza 140/4-speed' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[corvaircenter.com]; alt='1968 Corvair 500 coupe' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[www.automation-scs.com]; alt='1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0' width='190' /></td>
<td><a href='[www.automation-scs.com&]; target='_blank'></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1962 900 sedan needs a home</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1967 Monza 140/4-spd</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1968 500 coupe (now my son's)</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0</font></td>
</tr>
</table>

I found a nut shell in the driver's door when I vacuumed it out. I used a washing machine drain hose on my shop vac to get in through the hole I cut for the patch. There really is no good way to clean out these doors from the inside, as the opening is too high up (my opinion).

I'm thinking about making cleanouts on the doors by cutting a rectangle out of the bottom of each door and screwing on a plate that has a hole in the middle for added drainage. When time to clean out the doors, I would remove the plate and either vacuum or MAYBE wet flush (not likely once the door panels are installed).

I want to do this NOW, so I can protect the inside-bottom of each door with spray-on undercoating. There is not easy way to get the Rust Bullet in there, so I figure the undercoating is a better idea.

<table align='center' width='0'>
<tr>
<td><img src='[www.automation-scs.com]; alt='1962 Corvair 900 sedan' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[corvaircenter.com]; alt='1967 Corvair Monza 140/4-speed' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[corvaircenter.com]; alt='1968 Corvair 500 coupe' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[www.automation-scs.com]; alt='1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0' width='190' /></td>
<td><a href='[www.automation-scs.com&]; target='_blank'></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1962 900 sedan needs a home</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1967 Monza 140/4-spd</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1968 500 coupe (now my son's)</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0</font></td>
</tr>
</table>

i would cut the flange of the door skin in sections like so(see pic).... and peel it back. cut off the rot,then make the inner section of the door and weld it in. then fold them back over and weld the cuts you made. then make the repair to the door skin as described above.
it appears there is still some kind of filler on the door skin? if that's what i'm seeing, the easiest and cleanest way to remove it is with a heat gun and flat blade.

Bryan M Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> i would cut the flange of the door skin in
> sections like so(see pic).... and peel it back.
> cut off the rot,then make the inner section of the
> door and weld it in. then fold them back over and
> weld the cuts you made. then make the repair to
> the door skin as described above.
Interesting. I had not thought of that. I guess if I had ever re-skinned a door, I would have! For for thought...

> it appears there is still some kind of filler on the door skin? if that's
> what i'm seeing, the easiest and cleanest way to remove it is with a
> heat gun and flat blade.
No bondo here, just red primer. There is bondo on the quarter panels, thickness unknown. I'm saving the rear for last (probably not until next year), and don't plan to do much with it other than repaint. Then again, my kid said she didn't expect to have the car very long (going to college next year), so you never know!
I tried a heat gun on my rear grill that had bondo and it did not do a good job removing paint, which resisted the heat too much. I modified my heat gun to only work at the low temp setting to prevent vaporizing the lead in old paint, as I use this gun mainly for removing house paint!

<table align='center' width='0'>
<tr>
<td><img src='[www.automation-scs.com]; alt='1962 Corvair 900 sedan' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[corvaircenter.com]; alt='1967 Corvair Monza 140/4-speed' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[corvaircenter.com]; alt='1968 Corvair 500 coupe' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[www.automation-scs.com]; alt='1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0' width='190' /></td>
<td><a href='[www.automation-scs.com&]; target='_blank'></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1962 900 sedan needs a home</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1967 Monza 140/4-spd</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1968 500 coupe (now my son's)</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0</font></td>
</tr>
</table>