I was driving on the interstate Sunday, running about 3400 rpms. About 10 minutes in, a scraping sound started coming from the engine compartment. I pulled over and at first couldn't find the problem. Then I noticed the blower fan had a gouge cut out of it all the way around. Apparently, the shaft had pulled out of the cover on the engine and the blower was scraping against the shroud. Now it gets weird. I pushed the blower back down and it went back in. I can't get it to come back up no matter how hard I pull it. Drove it back at lower speed and it didn't re-occur. Has this ever happened to anyone else? Any explanations? I've been driving the car for 2 yrs. and this is the first time I've ever had this problem. Obviously I should replace it, right? Bearing is fine, it's the shaft into the cover that came loose. How do I stop this from happening again? Thanks, Mark

Mark,
Had it happen to me on the way home from picking up my Corsa in Prescott. We were hauling butt north of Vegas when the exact same thing happened. It reoccured every 10 mins till we figured out a RPM that would keep the fan in it's original position (roughly 55 mph in 4th). The problem is that the fan belt was over-tightened and wore an oblong shape into the top cover where the shaft goes into. The only fix is to get a different top cover and don't over-tighten the belt. You should be able to pull the the alternator fan w/your finger tips if the belt is not too tight. Quite a sparks show with magnesium against the turkey roaster if you were back there to watch it!

John
Olympia, WA / Doha, Qatar
65 Corsa 140/4

I thought about the magnesium when I realized what was happening. Wonder if it would've ignited if I'd kept going? Tension is right on belt, but it may have already been worn previously. So... anyone have a good spare top cover for a '65 110 they'd like to sell? Thanks, Mark

Location,location,location? ggg

Sam C. Saunders,Pt. Pleasant WV
68 500 cp 95 pg ash gold
66 Monza cp 110 4spd black
68 500 cp 95 3spd blue "DAIRY QUEEN CAR"

<a href="[s930.photobucket.com]; target="_blank"><img src="[i930.photobucket.com]; border="0" alt="1 link"></a><a href="[s930.photobucket.com]; target="_blank"><img src="[i930.photobucket.com]; border="0" alt="2 link"></a><a href="[s930.photobucket.com]; target="_blank"><img src="[i930.photobucket.com]; border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Seems like you could use epoxy to fill the void made when the sleeve gets deformed by over-tightening the fan, as long as the metal is not cracked or otherwise over-stressed. However, it seems to me that this part was a bit under-engineered.

Has anyone "improved" a top cover by welding a larger/thicker outer "tube", either over the original OR in place of it? Seems like anyone who does aluminum welding could easily strengthen it by welding a larger sleeve over it as long as the original part is not bent or broken. I wonder if the welding could be done with the top cover in place with wet rags and a protective shield around the work area?

<table align='center' width='0'>
<tr>
<td><img src='[www.automation-scs.com]; alt='1962 Corvair 900 sedan' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[corvaircenter.com]; alt='1967 Corvair Monza 140/4-speed' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[corvaircenter.com]; alt='1968 Corvair 500 coupe' width='190' /></td>
<td><img src='[www.automation-scs.com]; alt='1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0' width='190' /></td>
<td><a href='[www.automation-scs.com&]; target='_blank'></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1962 900 sedan needs a home</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1967 Monza 140/4-spd</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1968 500 coupe (now my son's)</font></td>
<td align='center'><font size='1'>1983 Mexican Mustang 5.0</font></td>
</tr>
</table>

One drop of Red Locktight when a bearing is installed into the top cover, will keep this from happening. I have rebearing-d and sold many top cover units over 30+ years. Never had a bearing ride up in the top cover after doing this. Also... with heat, the bearing can be removed again later if needed somewhere down the road.
Obviously, if the top cover is damaged or too sloppy to take a new bearing, it should be replaced. It appears to be the origional problem posted here could be from pressing a bearing into a cold top cover that has also had several bearings installed in the past 45+ years. Just my guess!

Corventure Dave

Reading Corventure Dave's post gives me an idea of what may have contributed to this. I did press it in cold. It didn't resist too much, so maybe the hole was already worn out. Funny thing is once I pushed it back down, I couldn't pull it up again for anything. I'm no Sasquatch(well,physically anyway), put I pulled it pretty hard and it wouldn't budge. I know I'm going to have to pull the shroud off and check it out. If the problem is not obvious to the eye,(meaning a big loose hole) what else should I look for? Thanks for your help, Mark ( P.S. As I sit typing this it just dawned on me that at this time 6 yrs ago I was in Arlington, TX at a Rangers game, as Katrina took everything I owned at the time. Time flies. Hope everyone came out okay from Irene.)

I use a couple of set screws to engage the blower bearing shaft instead of locktite but the theory is the same.

I simply drill and tap the upper 'neck' of the housing on opposite sides and use two 1/4x20 set screws after the housing cools. I always heat up the housing before installing the new bearing. I have never had one slip.

best wishes, Steve
Rear Engine Spec. Inc. Golden, Colo.

1962 spyder 3.0L turbo---1965 Crown V8
1967 monza 110/4---1968 monza 110/4
1971 amante gt 110/4
CORSA/RMC/PPCC/V8 Registry