……
Corvair DiagramCorvair Photo
Corvair Center
home forum corvairs calendar links Corvair Podcast
California Corvairs
Clarks Corvair
Clarks Corvair
“CORSA"



Chevy Corvair License Plate
Chevy Corvair Chrome Wheel
Corvair Center Forum :  Corvair Center Phorum - presented by CORSA The fastest message board... ever.
Corvair Center 
need tips for painting prep
Posted by: surlyoldbill ()
Date: May 26, 2011 09:07AM

What is the best way to go about sanding and prepping the hood louvers (sp?)?
I was thinking of removing the hood and sandblasting all the nooks and crannies, and then shaking or vacuuming out the sand and paint bits.

PO had rattle canned the whole car satin black, including the interior (!). The paint didn't stick to the original white all that great, and even the white is coming up off the factory primer in a few spots, but the primer seems to be holding fast.

As for colors, I'm going the Rustoleum route, or at least some type of industrial paint that I can thin and spray. Any links to places that sell oil based enamels in more color choices than Rustoleum? How's Valspar?

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: patpaldino ()
Date: May 26, 2011 09:42AM

If you can sandblast it then you'd be best off I think. An air hose should be able to blow off any remaining debris...

You would be best to stay away from anything lacquer based because you don't know what system was used out of a rattle can and you don't want the new paint to lift. Not sure if you are blasting the whole car or just that piece...

Why not just go with an automotive paint? You can still get single stage if you don't want base/clear...Lots of paint mfg's have 'bridge' lines which can be 1/3 of their name brand stuff. For instance PPG has 'shop line', DuPont has Nasan...might be worth while to look into...

'65 vert ~ Worcester, MA

SOLD!

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: corventure Dave ()
Date: May 26, 2011 10:35AM

Sand blasting puts grit in every nook and crany. It will shake out years after the body work was done! There is also a good chance of warping the metal from heat buildup when sand blasting sheet metal. Media blasting is an alternative but is $$$$. For my early cars I prep-ed and painted for show and go, I chose to strip the louvers or air inlet's with a chemical stripper, followed by endless hand sanding. This way I avoided distorting the metal. I used to do all my own auto finishing and painting, but California regulations and re-formulated paints along with a minimum $10,000 fine for painting your car in your own garage, put a dampener on my auto finishing day's

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: surlyoldbill ()
Date: May 26, 2011 10:39AM

I'm going to sand off the bad rattlecan paint, and shoot a universal primer. I used a single stage urethane on my rampside from PPG that was only about $120/gallon, but this car is so rough and patched together I don't want to spend a lot of money on it, so the $30/gallon sounds nice and the ability to just go down to the store and get more in case of accidents is appealing.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: Dennis D ()
Date: May 26, 2011 10:43AM

I did it the same way as corventure Dave. Chemical stripper and alot of hand sanding. I don't think you'd ever get all the sand out if you sandblasted. There just doesn't seem to be an easy way when doing an early model.

Dennis D
Brocton, NY.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: patpaldino ()
Date: May 26, 2011 04:50PM

My mistake I thought the OP had a louvered type of hood...thek ind that go all the way thru top to bottom...

I definitely am no fan of chemical strippers though...they tend to make a huge mess and get in every place you don't want...works great on newer paint but didn't have much luck removing the original car paint.

'65 vert ~ Worcester, MA

SOLD!

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: 4carbcorvair ()
Date: May 26, 2011 04:54PM

patpaldino Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> My mistake I thought the OP had a louvered type of
> hood...thek ind that go all the way thru top to
> bottom...
>
> I definitely am no fan of chemical strippers
> though...they tend to make a huge mess and get in
> every place you don't want...works great on newer
> paint but didn't have much luck removing the
> original car paint.

Pat, the EM rear louvers drop down into another panel underneath, great place to collect leaves, dirt and sandblast sand. sad smiley

x2 on the chemical stripper. Stuff gets into seems and areas where you will not be able to get fresh paint. Which in turn will cause rust to start. I've sanded those by hand, it's very time consuming, however, the best, IMO way to do it.

--------------------------------
Ronnie
Southern Maine.
www.dirigocorvairs.net
66 Corsa Convertible, 140, 4sp.
65 Monza Convertible, 110, PG.




It doesn't leak, it's marking it's territory.

A mirror is a reflection of the miles travelled.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: patpaldino ()
Date: May 26, 2011 05:36PM

Aha! Thx Ronnie...I was thinkin orignally he had the kind that go through and through...not sure why, just when i hear louvers that's what comes to mind smiling smiley

'65 vert ~ Worcester, MA

SOLD!

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: surlyoldbill ()
Date: May 26, 2011 08:24PM

I have these little scotchbright wheels that work with my drill, and some other smaller ones that go on my dremel, so I might try those first. I would STILL have to get the crap out that I'm sanding off. I haven't had much luck with chemical strippers, and I don't think this blind louver situation is the place to use them.

I will pressure wash the car first, and get off any loose paint. I'll let it dry a few days and start the sanding.

As for colors, the Rustoleum comes in a couple acceptable colors, smoke gray and safety red. One two-tone combo that would be nice would be John Deere green and satin black, but I haven't found a Rustoleum JD green in a gallon can. I think I'll do a two-tone job on the EM convertible, with one color below the side crease, and use that same color for a "racing" stripe on the trunk and hood.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: gee_gonzalez ()
Date: May 26, 2011 08:52PM

i once thought about drilling the spot welds and cleaning them separately

62 monza 900 convertible
PLAYA DEL REY CA

"Bought my corvair on the way to Del Taco ...mmmmmmmm corvair"

[picasaweb.google.com]#

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: Chris Lampe ()
Date: May 26, 2011 11:19PM

What ever method you use once completed, clean the surface several times until you think you've completely cleaned it, then clean it two more times. The most important part and probably the most overlooked step in getting a good looking paint job.

Chris
Rowlett, Tx
NTCA - North Texas Corvair Association
CORSA
'64 Monza 'vert

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: mrtrimmier ()
Date: May 27, 2011 12:02AM

If it we're me I'd probably use the aircraft stripper followed by pressure washing or steam cleaning then build a tarp sump to soak the decklid in some water and dish soap and agitate it some. But that's just me....

JTVairs.com swears by Van Sickle brand oil based tractor paint, though I have no idea where to buy it??? I like the fact that they offer hardener for use with their products and the color pallets are pleasing.

Regards,
Mike T
Lady's Island S.C.

Black '65 CORSA "parts" car ("RatVair") '65 CORSA Weber/180 ("Whitey") '60 500 Sedan ("Smurf Surf Sedan")


Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: patpaldino ()
Date: May 27, 2011 05:06AM

So after you get the black off, maybe you could scuff the white and primer over that...those dremel tools can be good for tight places, but if you plan on using those little wheels of sandpaper try doing an 80 first then moving up to 180-220 before priming. I don't think I would use a griding wheel dremel one just because it could dig into teh metal too much.

I know when I do a paint job on a bike I do not strip the factory paint off, but I scuff the clear and knock off any stripes or decals down to bafre metal and then feather the edges in. A few coats of a highbuild primer and I'm good to go...

Just a thought...sometimes stripping down to bare metal can be a real pain.

'65 vert ~ Worcester, MA

SOLD!

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: surlyoldbill ()
Date: May 27, 2011 12:25PM

patpaldino Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> So after you get the black off, maybe you could
> scuff the white and primer over that...those
> dremel tools can be good for tight places, but if
> you plan on using those little wheels of sandpaper
> try doing an 80 first then moving up to 180-220
> before priming. I don't think I would use a
> griding wheel dremel one just because it could dig
> into teh metal too much.
>
> I know when I do a paint job on a bike I do not
> strip the factory paint off, but I scuff the clear
> and knock off any stripes or decals down to bafre
> metal and then feather the edges in. A few coats
> of a highbuild primer and I'm good to go...
>
> Just a thought...sometimes stripping down to bare
> metal can be a real pain.

I'm going to paint my 1999 Specialized FSR this year to avoid the temptation to buy a new bike. It's perfectly fine with nearly all aftermarket parts, I'd like disc brakes, but the rear triangle doesn't have mounts. I've always been able to stop without them, though! With my components and wheels I laced up, I'm under 24lbs and it handles great, so no need to get a new bike until I break something. Thanks for the bike painting tip.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: patpaldino ()
Date: May 27, 2011 12:28PM

Yeah like I said it works with bikes going over stock paint...but I only do it if I know there is just the one paint job on there...

'65 vert ~ Worcester, MA

SOLD!

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: Anonymous User ()
Date: May 28, 2011 01:10AM

I just finished stripping my hood while back.
The great paint job that was on my car when I bought it more than 2 years ago slowly started to peel off the clear coat in areas and the hood area was the worst
I found that using the paint stripper in a spray can at wal mart for $5 was least messy for me..i could spray the size and amount of area i wanted to do and mess was less than brushing on paint remover. I also found out that the hood had 3 different paint jobs on it..The one that had the least amount placed on was the paint I bought the car with. Clean-up and sprayed rustoleum red primer on it for now. at least my hood has one paint color showing

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: surlyoldbill ()
Date: June 01, 2011 08:36PM

I had forgotten the wonder of a grinder with a wire wheel, it's been 5-6 years since I painted my rampside.
I took all the paint off the underside of the rear hood in about an hour and a half with a combination or wheel shapes and sizes, with just a bit of sandblasting in some crevices. I'll do the top next, and I don't think I'll have too much trouble now. I have to wait, because as everyone knows it rains constantly in California until August, and I don't have an indoor area to work in.

Looking at Rustoleum paints...wait I'll start anew thread.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: need tips for painting prep
Posted by: Wabbitkiller ()
Date: June 02, 2011 06:35AM

corventure Dave Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Sand blasting puts grit in every nook and crany.
> It will shake out years after the body work was
> done! There is also a good chance of warping the
> metal from heat buildup when sand blasting sheet
> metal. Media blasting is an alternative but is
> $$$$. For my early cars I prep-ed and painted for
> show and go, I chose to strip the louvers or air
> inlet's with a chemical stripper, followed by
> endless hand sanding. This way I avoided
> distorting the metal. I used to do all my own auto
> finishing and painting, but California regulations
> and re-formulated paints along with a minimum
> $10,000 fine for painting your car in your own
> garage, put a dampener on my auto finishing day's


One of the MANY reasons I'm glad I don't live in CA. While the weather is great in most places in CA, all of the tree hugging anti-pollution crap would drive me NUTS.

Chris

1965 Monza 95 Convertible 4 speed

Olathe, KS (Kansas City)


Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
This forum powered by Phorum.