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Distributor rebuild
Posted by: 4carbcorvair ()
Date: August 29, 2006 04:24PM

Didn't want to hi-jack the distributor thread.

What is actually involved in a dizzy rebuild? New bushing and clean it up? Make sure there is no play/wear in the wieghts?

How does one check the wieght springs to see if they are good?

It appears by searching that 140 wieght springs are no longer. What would be a good substitute for 140 manual trans springs?

What else would be involved?





--------------------------------
Ronnie
Southern Maine.
[www.dirigocorvairs.com]
66 Corsa Convertible, 140, 4sp.




It doesn't leak, it's marking it's territory.

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Re: Distributor rebuild
Posted by: cepak ()
Date: August 29, 2006 04:45PM

Ron,

I rebuilt my Corvair's distributor. With all the parts I replaced and the time it took to do the rebuild, I think I would have come out about the same as buying a rebuilt one from Dale Mfg. Of course, the distributor had a catestrophic failure [corvaircenter.com] .

Clarks didn't have the 102hp springs, but I was lucky enough that the 110hp distributor has a very close advance curve. I had to switch to those weights and springs.


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Re: Distributor rebuild
Posted by: GJ1963 ()
Date: August 29, 2006 04:48PM

Simple stuff, just be slow and careful. Drive the roll pins out to get the gear off, and then it separates (keep the shims together in one place, as this is a place for slop, and a good idea to check and shim as necessary). Install new bearing etc. Then cleaning and polishing of parts looking for whatever is worn. You can look at Dale's website for great information on weights and springs and determining what you have and need. Make sure not to put the weights in upside down. A common area of wear that seems to be overlooked is the top of the shaft that the point cam slides over, and it can flop around then leading to sloppy timing (Dale, and maybe others turns this down on a lathe and replaces with a bushing, a good reason to buy a rebuilt). Often the weights may be frozen up. Careful reassembly with grease, and you are set. Look for wear on the points plate pivot, and the point cam. It is matched to the weights. Like has been discussed a distributor curve machine is great if you have access. The vacuum advance arm pinhole wears out. Either replace the advance, or you can braze the hole shut and redrill. Or what I have done, braze two small (appropriately sized to the pin) brass washers on either side. This provides more contact area, and wont wear out as fast.



----El Jefe

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Re: Distributor rebuild
Posted by: rick4130 ()
Date: August 29, 2006 06:49PM

If you go to Dale mfg's web site there is an amazingly long process he goes through .....I don't have that much free time, do you Ron??

Rick MacDonald
'63 700 Sedan

rick4130@yahoo.com

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Re: Distributor rebuild
Posted by: 4carbcorvair ()
Date: September 01, 2006 10:11PM

Looks like I may purchasing one at some point. I have had an oil leak since my buffalo trip, and I think I have found it. Looks like the oil is coming out of the INSIDE of the distributor. Bushing must be toast. Oil inside the cap, suprised it runs.....

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Re: Distributor rebuild
Posted by: Tommy ()
Date: September 02, 2006 01:20AM



> What is actually involved in a dizzy rebuild? New
> bushing and clean it up? Make sure there is no
> play/wear in the wieghts?

at $32 for the rebuilt distributor (which includes the core charge), grab the Cardone unit. it'll save you a lot of time, and probably with perform better than rebuilding your current unit

just threw one in my 110 and it made a HUGE difference.

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Re: Distributor rebuild
Posted by: Richard ()
Date: September 02, 2006 03:06PM

You posted a solution to stop the oil coming out the dipstick. Now you have a problem with oil coming out of the dist.


You mentioned in the past that you made some kind of PCV modification. I think you should start there.

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Re: Distributor rebuild
Posted by: 4carbcorvair ()
Date: September 02, 2006 03:28PM

PCV modification was after the Buffalo trip, and all that consisted of is running the PCV to an individual air filter to one carb instead of the large stock filter assembly. Oil from the dipstick was cornering way too fast and downshifting to second and bringing it up to about 5,300 RPM. Under normal driving with the dipstick out, there is no oil coming out of the tube. Dizzy leak (or mystery leak at the time) started on the way to Buffalo. There is some slop in the dizzy shaft, side-to-side. The car sat for 10 years prior to me buying it and almost 2 years after that until I got it on the road. Past history is pretty much unkown. Working the bugs out. winking smiley

--------------------------------
Ronnie
Southern Maine.
[www.dirigocorvairs.com]
66 Corsa Convertible, 140, 4sp.




It doesn't leak, it's marking it's territory.

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