OK, Today I received a reground crankshaft that I had ordered and I have a couple of questions.

1st: How do I remove the slinger, brass gear, and eccentric to place on the other crank? Is a press needed or special tool that I don't have....yet?

2nd: I have a 63 spyder and the crank that I pulled out of my engine was numbered 7293. The new crankshaft is numbered 5607. What's the difference?

Thanks Bryan

"How do I remove the slinger, brass gear, and eccentric to place on the other crank? Is a press needed or special tool that I don't have....yet? "

Yes, you'll need a bearing splitter and a press or a gear puller. Someone in your local club will probably have one or you might be able to rent/borrow one from your local auto supply. Or take it to a machine shop to get it pressed off and back on.
We never heard the outcome of the noise from your engine rebuild, but from this question, it WAS apparently the worst. Sorry. Reminds me of the first engine I rebuilt, a 55 chevy 6 cylinder. I put new rod bearings in but switched the rod caps around. I didn't know they were susposed to stay with the same rod. My Dad had to tow me back home.
Was the crank ground undersize of badly worn undersize?


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Don
NTCA
66 Monza 1 owner

Thank you Acardon- just to update, I'm a moron and neglected to properly check the size of the crank lobes. What I thought was standard was actually at least .030....I hear that this gross size difference will make the noise I heard. Well it's now official, I have replaced or refurbished everything in the engine. I'm now working on replacing the throw out snout with a daul seal type.

Any luck on my second question?

Thanks again for your help, Bryan

In the parts catalog, it looks like the 5607 identification # crank is a non-turbo crank. Does anyone know what the difference is between a 63 turbo and 63 non-turbo crankshaft.

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Caution: Images in This Mirror May be Waterpumpers
Don
NTCA
66 Monza 1 owner

Hello Bryan and all: The original turbo cranks were nitrided for hardness but that only penetrates a few thousanths of an inch, when the crank is turned undersize the nitriding is gone anyway.

In regards of the gear swap, just a simple gear puller will work. Be careful of the threads in the end of the crank, use the pulley bolt on the end. There are two woodruff keys to guide the gear and fuel pump eccentric. The oil slinger slips off by itself, just don't forget to replace it before installing the rear accessory cover. Good luck Bryan.

Best, Steve