1964 monza 900
I want to redo engine seals - are there any better ways to do this than to order the gaskets from Clarks? At the very least I do not want to redo those staples, they seem impossible to reach and bend while the whole thing is together in engine. I was thinking rivets or sheet metal screws to mount. What has worked for you guys?

1964 Monza 900 with AC
78k og miles
Located in Issaquah, WA

Here is a link to when I did them on the Greenbrier I had owned. Any flat rubber will do. Remove the 3 pieces from the engine to do the job. Screws and rivets look junky.

[corvaircenter.com]

Basic info from the discussion.
"Actually they were quite easy. A little to awkward at sometimes to handle, but still manageable. We got a system set up and went at it.

I got all the tools set up that we would need. I cut out all the new staples out of 0.051 stainless safetywire. Donna and I used 5 4" large mouth clamps and popsicle sticks to get the 3 pieces aligned and secured. Donna drilled all the 0.051" holes using existing holes and inserted all the staples. She and I worked the staples closed. She held the shroud stable and I pounded them closed on the vise in which I mounted a 1/4" piece of steel to lay the head of the staple on. The key to inserting the staple was to make one leg longer than the other to allow turning and slipping of the staple.

And YES. WE had teamwork.

OH yeah. Not one drop of blood shed in the garage during the process. Garage has been maintained at a balmy 68 degrees this past 10 days."

[www.ebay.com]

Here is a link to get less expenive stainlees wire instead of a full roll.

[www.ebay.com]

Full roll of wire.

[www.ebay.com]

Al
Georgia

I suggest remove the 3 shrouds from the engine, clean them, and then using the Clark's
rubbers install with staples on the table. Staples are harder to work with but look much
better than the other fasteners. No need to reinvent the wheel when Clark's has them ready
to go.

I can't image doing them on the car. And typically the metal pieces are grimy and rusted. I made my own staples from galvanized wire and used a pair of flat pliers. The nose tapered and I marked the pliers where the size was correct to bend the wire. Additionally, though a tedious task, you will have a sense of accomplishment and 'be in the club' of those who have gone before you.

If you are looking for a fast, TEMPORARY, fix (like you have to get the car from one location to another) MAYBE removing the existing and sliding the slit sided water pipe insulation over the edge would suffice??? However, the cost and effort are probably not worth trying.

BTW, I looked for the rubber locally and found nothing that came close. I got mine from Clark's. They were about $5 each plus tax and shipping.

Doesn't Dave Motohead have a youtube for doing this?

RJ tools
Salem,Oregon

RexJohnson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Doesn't Dave Motohead have a youtube for doing this?


[www.youtube.com]

-Tom


63' Monza Spyder Convertable (in process) MY Build Thread
62' Wagon rebuild MY Build Thread
65' Monza MY Build Thread
73' NovaSS 454 Big block (Sold)
86' BMW 325es
67' UltraVan 211 "Violet"
NFCC, UMCC
Grand Island, NY

Getting the original staples out is a tough job, for sure.
But you can replace them with much easier to work same size wire.
Important to keep the top thin retainers with the side shroud they came from.

use a small drill to perforate the rubber then align and insert your home-made staples. I used aluminum wire - does not have to be a tough wire like the original.
It was super strong because it was stapling thru two layers of steel!

Takes awhile to do the entire job, but it will be rewarding when the engine bay looks factory fresh.

---

Dan Davis ~ Pierce County, WA ~ CCF admin ~
CORSA +Corvairs NW + North Cascades Corvairs + Corvanatics
1966 Corsa Turbo coupe ~ ~ 1966 Corsa 140 Coupe ~ ~ 1965 Monza 140/4 Convertible Sierra Tan/Fawn ~ 1964 Monza Spyder Convertible ~ 1960 Monza Ermine White/Red PG ++ ~ 1965 Monza 140/4 CoupeEvening Orchid w/ ivory/black interior ~ 1962 Monza Wagon 102/4 ~ 1963 Rampside/Scamper ~ 1963 Red/Greenbrier ~ 1969 Ultra Van #468

I find the stainless wire from Clarks to be too stiff for my liking.
I just buy the fabric from Clarks, sort of a dark gray. For 5 bucks apiece it doesn't behoove me to look around. A fellow in my town has blue and red fabric but it's just not my cup of tea.
It's a tedious job seated at a table. I cut the wire to length and bend it halfway up a needle nose to make the staple shape. It's easier if you make one leg a little longer to poke through one at a time before bending over on the back side. I like to use a little drill bit to align the holes and make a hole in the fabric but my associate may use a punch. I try not to watch because I have control issues when he goes his own way.
I will usually paint the shrouds before and then mask the fabric and paint over the staples again after. If I just paint the fabric too it seems to be okay.
Sometimes they're a little wide and need trimming with a razor blade.
I use a leather punch to make holes in the rear strip for the screws to go through. I just hold the strip up and mark location with a Sharpie.
Pop rivets would be so much easier but I can't make myself do it. I would just die if someone said something sometime.
That must have been one hell of a stapler that they used.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Phil Dally wrote:
"There is another option...trade it in for a Late Model. `;~}}"

Yeah that 12' long perimeter seal is a real joy sometimes.

Jim Brandberg
Isanti, MN
CorvairRepair.com






Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/19/2023 07:09AM by JimBrandberg.