I found a couple of posts on this subject from about 10 years ago. As far as I can tell, only SKF 99300 is available now—not 99303 or 99048. Regardless, 99300 is what I have, and like the others, it needs to be trimmed.

For those who have installed these before:
-did you leave the sleeve driving flange attached?
-would permatex #2 be a suitable sealer to use on the crank surface under the sleeve?
-how, exactly, did you trim a perfect edge on the sleeve?

I can easily see using a dremel tool with cutoff wheel to get close to the crank flange. Is the rest just ground flush with the bevel on the crank flange?

1964 convertible - 110hp - Powerglide- 3.55 axle - central NC



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/26/2023 08:15PM by Peeeot.

I tried one of these sleeves a few months ago on a crank gear that someone had put channel locks on and gouged it very bad. I could not make it work. It is too long and has to be trimmed. I saw no way to trim this once installed. I trimmed it on the scribed line and installed the piece without the flange. Red lactate is good enough. You just want the sleeve not to turn in the seal. The problem comes in that the shaft is now 3.020" OD, 0.020" larger than the original hub. The sleeve is VERY sharp where it is trimmed so getting the bell housing seal to slide over the sleeve without cutting the seal or having the spring come out of the seal is a challenge. I had to put scotch tape over the end of the sleeve so the seal would not catch. I tested setting the bell housing on a couple of times and taking it back off to check the seal. Put it together and it still leaked. When I took it apart I found the spring had come out of the seal. I finally replaced the crank gear.

Dennis
Nashville area

You must be talking about the crankshaft speedi-sleeve.

The Balancer speedi-sleeve is SKF 99160.



Eric P.
DeWitt, IA

That is correct: the front or bell housing end of the crank.

1964 convertible - 110hp - Powerglide- 3.55 axle - central NC

Peeeot: How did you end up installing the Speedi sleeve? Did you ever get answers to your questions? I have the same questions and found nothing searching so far that answers these questions.

When I get to this point I am going to install it leaving the driving flange installed, as I can’t see any potential interference problems. I’m going to find a piece of plastic pipe that the sleeve fits over and use the chop saw to cut it to the correct length before installing. I believe Permatex #2 will be a good sealer as well.

If someone knows different please share so the thread can be concluded.

Craig T
Central NY
1961 Tramp (truck with a ramp)

Having seen these in operation, I suggest finding a shop that has a wire EDM that can cleanly cut off the extra length: no heating, no bending, no distortion.

The PVC pipe idea might work if you can find the correct OD. Something close might be turned down to fit. I assume you would be using an abrasive blade--the molten plastic generated for this operation might keep the metal edge quenched.

Dale Dewald
President - Corvanatics
Hancock, MI

I did a Speedy Sleeve a number of years back. I cant remember if I used Loctite or Black RTV under the sleeve. I remember having to cut off any access but it may have been the older style. I do remember that there were oil leaks after the installation. Did seem like the seal was a but stubborn to go on, as Dennis describes. I still have the box that the sleeve came in. Ill try to post the part number. Since the new sleeves need to be trimmed, I would think the crankshaft ( out of the block) could be mounted in a lathe, cut down and bevel and sand the end so the seal can go over the sleeve without too much trouble.

1964 Monza Coupe
1965 Corsa 140
1967 Monza Coupe

Maryville, TN
U.S. 129 The"Tail Of The Dragon"

I recently installed the Speedi-sleeve on the front crank hub. Tried to find a suitable piece of plastic pipe to use as a backer for cutting with the chop saw. The only thing I could find that had a proper fit was a $27 pvc reducing flange. It made no sense to destroy a plastic part that cost nearly as much as the part I was trying to make fit.

Ended up doing it as others have done by installing the sleeve and carefully cutting it with the dremel cutoff wheel. This was followed by a grinding stone and and a sanding disc to smooth the cut edge. Took a bit of time, but came out smooth with no burrs or rough spots. I left the flanged part on. Used Permatex #2 as a sealant. Time will tell if this is a suitable repair.

Installation tip: It is easier to cut off the installed sleeve “long”, extending out just past the crank hub, than trying to cut it close to its final installed length. The reason being, that it is more difficult to try cut the sleeve with a wheel without damaging the hub; than it is to simply grind it close to the finished length, then make the final finished length and bevel with a sanding disc.

Craig T
Central NY
1961 Tramp (truck with a ramp)