Looks like I’ll take the relay rod off and hit the press.

And I just put it all together & lubed. What a mess.

Didn’t even think to look at the stupid bushing.

gerg
Monroe, LA

Current cars and other fun stuff -> [gregblakeney.smugmug.com]

Quote
Gerg
Looks like I’ll take the relay rod off and hit the press.

I find this the easier way to deal with the stock bushing. Remove rod and take to workbench. And that Nylon bushing will yield to a press!

Like Joel, I have had to sand a tight bushing. There were two styles of Nylon available, one that needed the stock sleeve removed and the other sized to fit inside the stock sleeve. The one that fit inside the sleeve saved time with a cold chisel.

I like Dave's picture of the upside down bushing.

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA

Frank DuVal Wrote:
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>

Quote
Gerg
> Looks like I’ll take the relay rod off and hit the press.
>

>
> I find this the easier way to deal with the stock bushing. Remove rod and take to workbench. And that Nylon bushing will yield to a press!
>

x2

When I have replaced the bushing (with stock bushing) - never used a nylon bushing.

I would think that you should be able to press out the bolt with a large bench vice - which is what I used to press in a new bushing - after removing the steel sleeve.

X3 - I should have looked at this bushing when all the linkage was on the floor in my shop for 2 weeks.

I’ll remove it and replace with an original type rubber bushing.

This quick steer box and arms looks to be fun. 2.5 turns lock to lock . . .

gerg
Monroe, LA

Current cars and other fun stuff -> [gregblakeney.smugmug.com]

I never use the rubber bushings. It is the first thing I change on a new Corvair. I hate the rubber feel.

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 141 Corvairs and counting...

Could someone who has the nylon bushing installed correctly please post a photo. It would help this discussion quite a bit. thanks,

Cliff Tibbitts
Nicholasville, KY
CORSA, CKCE, Derby City Corvairs
66 Monza, 140/4sp

I'll get a pic of mine shortly - even though bolt is seized, it is installed correctly.

gerg
Monroe, LA

Current cars and other fun stuff -> [gregblakeney.smugmug.com]

Thanks Gerg, the reason I ask is my 66 came to me with the nylon bushing installed. I always assumed it was correct. Now I am beginning to wonder.

Cliff Tibbitts
Nicholasville, KY
CORSA, CKCE, Derby City Corvairs
66 Monza, 140/4sp

Cliff - I can’t get under my car right now, but the bushing is oriented like the one on the right side of the pic below. The bushing presses into the BOTTOM of relay rod so the flange is visible on bottom. The bolt goes UP through the bushing (like the left side of the pic) and then into the pitman arm.



gerg
Monroe, LA

Current cars and other fun stuff -> [gregblakeney.smugmug.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/09/2023 03:40PM by gerg.

Here you go:

As others have said - you have to be able to press the bolt back out of the nylon bushing - worse case you'll have to remove the relay rod and take it to a press or vise to pop it out. I've never seen one so tight you can't turn the bolt within the nylon, but you best approach is to press it out. A large strong c-clamp would be a good start.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2023 12:35AM by truckin-on.

Nylon "washer" end of bushing should not be between the center link and the pitman arm. Can cause drag. Also the bolt's flange has no good place to put it's force. DAHIK.

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA

OK, I tried the C clamp today and it laughed at me.

So the relay rod came off, walked it over to the press (I'm such a procrastinator) and this is what I found. Not sure how the heck this was supposed to work. Serrated bolt, pressed into the bushing that was in turn pressed into the old steel cage of original bushing. That is the bolt head impression in the end of the bushing, and you can see how the bolt cut into the bushing with the serrated portion.

Just as a reminder - this was not my work





Maybe the idea was for the bolt to grab the bushing, and for the bushing to turn in the relay rod? I know the bolt I removed from the previous front end did not have the serrations.

gerg
Monroe, LA

Current cars and other fun stuff -> [gregblakeney.smugmug.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/13/2023 05:34PM by gerg.

My guess, only a guess is that was for a rubber bushing to make sure it was only the rubber compliance moving without actually spinning on the bolt.

J.O.

65 Corsa Turbo Vert
79 Honda XL 500S
69 Honda CL 160 D
2010 BMW F 650 GS
2003 Bounder 36D
2023 KIA K5 GT/GT1 turbo-AKA ZIPPY II (wife,s car)
69 Newport Holiday Sailboat
Baja 150 dune buggy cart
Coleman HS 500 UTV
2016 KIA Sorento SXL Turbo

Bethlehem,Pa

I'm not sure it matters which surface moves. Yours would just have to rotate on the outside. Sand down the outside of the nylon bushing until it is a slip fit.

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 141 Corvairs and counting...

I would get a smooth bolt and new nylon bushing. Having the outside surface slip requires ~2X the torque to rotate for a given fit.

I have a nylon bushing also and reamed the I.D. a bit larger with a sand paper "scroll" on a drill. It made the steering effort much more pleasant. It's still an interference fit but I can almost push the bolt in by hand.

James
65 Corsa
SF Bay Area

Agree 164% with what James is suggesting.

Friends Don't Let Friends Drive Stock
Been Aircooled Since 1973
Northwest Ohio 45840