So I read a few threads here - I have a center link with a pre installed nylon bushing by the previous owner. I torqued the bolt tonight and noticed the top of the bushing is smashed up against the bottom of the pitman arm. I read on another thread that there is a minimal gap needed there.

My question is has anyone seen this before? Do I possibly have a shorter bolt, or maybe a bad bushing? I don’t know the source - I would guess it was from Clarks though. White nylon in color, sitting in the metal cage that is still in the center link from the original rubber bushing I am guessing.

Plan to separate it all tomorrow and have a closer look.

gerg
Monroe, LA

Current cars and other fun stuff -> [gregblakeney.smugmug.com]

How far does your bushing stick out above the center link? It should be flush.

"Run She May, Shine She Must"
Been Aircooled Since 1973
Northwest Ohio 45840

Like 1/8” or so.

gerg
Monroe, LA

Current cars and other fun stuff -> [gregblakeney.smugmug.com]

Well you want the taper on the bolt to bottom out in the pitman arm before the bushing contacts the pitman arm.

"Run She May, Shine She Must"
Been Aircooled Since 1973
Northwest Ohio 45840

Sounds good - I’ll separate it at lunch today and correct it.

Thanks!

gerg
Monroe, LA

Current cars and other fun stuff -> [gregblakeney.smugmug.com]

You don't want to much play there as was mentioned because the center link could then move up and down on the bolt making it feel like you have slop in the steering.

Ken Hand
Handy Car Care
248 613 8586

Vairmech@aol.com

Understood - I remember seeing that.

Optimally do I want the top of the bushing as close to the pitman arm without touching?

Also, since the bolt pivots inside the nylon bushing, is it still critical that it is tightened in the straightahead position? I couldn’t get my torque wrench over the nut with the steering facing forward. Seems to make more sense with the rubber bushing as I expect it crushes some to the bolt when it’s torqued, but isn’t it different with this nylon bushing?

gerg
Monroe, LA

Current cars and other fun stuff -> [gregblakeney.smugmug.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/08/2023 07:57AM by gerg.

OK - I got it separated.

I loosened the nut, then went up top to turn the wheel so it was in better position to a press/hammer the bolt out of the bushing. Noticed it was easier to turn. Back under the car I now have ~1/32” visible gap bushing to pitman arm.

The taper never fully seated. Even though torqued, it just dropped out when loosened.

Now - the bolt is FROZEN in place. I have used a 1/2” breaker bar with a cheater pipe - wont budge. I’d lean into it harder but I am using a 1/2 x 3/8 adapter - I don’t have a 1/2” drive 11/16” socket.

May have to burn this one out. It is soaking now.

gerg
Monroe, LA

Current cars and other fun stuff -> [gregblakeney.smugmug.com]

Hard to describe but. disconnected from the center link, put the nut back on the tapered bolt flush with the threads. find a 1/2" drive socket that the head of the bolt will go through but the center link won't. grab the biggest c-clamp you have and have at it. If only the end of the bushing is messed up, a 9/16" drill or ream by hand will clean it up.
If no BIG c-clamp, put the biggest hammer you have under the center link, just off the tapered bolt head. Whack the nut down with the 2nd to the biggest hammer.

"Run She May, Shine She Must"
Been Aircooled Since 1973
Northwest Ohio 45840

No, the position it is in when you tighten it doesn't matter like it does with the factory bushing.

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 145 Corvairs and counting...

Thanks Wsgon Master & Joel.

I’ve tried the paired BFH approach, and I don’t have a super large C clamp. It blows my mind that I can’t twist the bolt with a breaker bar and cheater pipe.

I saw a few tools at Harbor freight this past week for removing ball joints, various sizes. Maybe one of those will help. I really don’t want to destroy the bushing if it can be saved.

gerg
Monroe, LA

Current cars and other fun stuff -> [gregblakeney.smugmug.com]

I can believe how the bushing swedged onto the bolt when the bushing touch the center link and you tighten the nut. What baffles me is how it's so tight you can't now get the bolt out.

"Run She May, Shine She Must"
Been Aircooled Since 1973
Northwest Ohio 45840

The common tool is ball joint spreader AKA 'pickle fork'.

best wishes, Steve
Rear Engine Spec. Inc. Golden, Colo.

1962 spyder 3.0L turbo---1965 Crown V8
1967 monza 110/4---1968 monza 110/4
1971 amante gt 110/4
CORSA/RMC/PPCC/V8 Registry

Agree - I thought I was going to snap my 3/8 x 1/2 adapter. Did that once cracking a VW axle nut free - I'll grab some 1/2 sockets today also.

I leaned into it to the point where I could picture me breaking my hand it it slipped.

gerg
Monroe, LA

Current cars and other fun stuff -> [gregblakeney.smugmug.com]

I have the bolt separated from the pitman arm already Steve.

I was ready to use my pickle fork but the bushing height prevented the bolt taper from seating. It just dropped down when I moved the steering wheel after loosening the nut.

I am trying to extract the bolt from the nylon bushing now.

gerg
Monroe, LA

Current cars and other fun stuff -> [gregblakeney.smugmug.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/08/2023 11:41AM by gerg.

Quote
Gerg
I am trying to extract the bolt from the nylon bushing now.

Well, that's a new one on me. I've never had this issue. Nylon is slippery. Might be a bolt defect (holes) where the Nylon reflowed into a pit and now resistes moving linearly. Does the bolt rotate in the Nylon? I would get it to do that first, then push it out.

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA

It does not. And I bet the farm I put over 80lbs into it with a 1/2” breaker bar.

gerg
Monroe, LA

Current cars and other fun stuff -> [gregblakeney.smugmug.com]

I have had to hone the ID of the nylon bushings sometimes. It needs to be a slip fit.

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 145 Corvairs and counting...

The flange of the bushing is on the bottom of the relay rod correct? I have seen people install them upside down and put it between the 2 rods like this and its wrong.







1960 4dr sedan caveman car
1961 Rampside (Chetside)
1962 Rampside (Barnside)
1962 Short Rampside (Shortside)
1962 Monza 700 Wagon
1963 Monza 900 coup (General Nader)

-----------------------------------
Rust Free Lancaster Ca

It is Dave. Looking from the bottom up I see the head of the bolt, the flange of the bushing, what looks like the steel cage of the original bushing, then the Pitman arm.

I just went after it again and walked away with a bloody knuckle. This is beyond me.

gerg
Monroe, LA

Current cars and other fun stuff -> [gregblakeney.smugmug.com]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/08/2023 03:30PM by gerg.