So my 64 Spyder decided to catch on fire...

As near as I can tell, it was a leak from the fuel return line from the in-line filter, sprayed gas over hot intake, and ....boom.

I think the fire burned through the wiring harness fairly quickly, and the car stalled out. As I pulled over, I noticed.. um... flames coming from the rear hood vents. That focused the mind, for sure.

Fortunately a long ago Corvair friend gave me good advice about keeping a fire extinguisher handy-- I've had one on the floor next to the shift lever for years, never touched it... until now.

I managed to get the fire out pretty quickly-- maybe 90 seconds total burning time. But the wiring in the engine bay is pretty crispy, certainly anything near the driver's side front corner where the fire was concentrated is toast.

What do I need to be paying attention to as I try to get this running again? New engine bay wire harness, new body harness, starter wires, battery cables, spark plug wires.... the turbo fuel filter and return line for sure. Do I need to worry about the metal fuel lines? They were dirty but look fine once cleaned up. I'd put in an alternator, so all that wiring needs replacing too. Fan belt, probably a new fuel pump and oil pressure sender.... (maybe a good excuse to finally install the electric pump kit I have sitting in a box...). I had an electric choke on there too, so that's one the list...

And a replacement fire extinguisher! I'll never drive without one... the presence of the fire extinguisher made this an expensive and scary mishap, but not worse!

Thanks,

N

no67el
Warren VT
'64 Spyder coupe

Sorry to hear that.

Might want to check the carb for damage; Magnesium fan?

Not familiar with EMs - any insulation in the lid?

Rubber gaskets that seal the engine compartment?

Good luck. Glad you had a fire extinguisher available.

No67el, you stated that you had the extinguisher for a long. Remember how long? I always wondered how old an extinguisher can be and still work.

Glad you saved the car!

-Tom


63' Monza Spyder Convertable (in process) MY Build Thread
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73' NovaSS 454 Big block (Sold)
86' BMW 325es
67' UltraVan 211 "Violet"
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Grand Island, NY

Definitely had the extinguisher in there TOO long-- I think I was very lucky that it still worked.

I'd probably had this extinguisher in there at least 4-5 years. The one in my convertible is much older, at least a decade, so one of the first things I did was replace that one...

N

no67el
Warren VT
'64 Spyder coupe

Jim Stukenborg Wrote:
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> No67el, you stated that you had the extinguisher for a long. Remember how long? I always wondered how old an extinguisher can be and still work.

Not a direct answer to your question but most have a gauge on them that basically show pressure. As the pressure slowly leaks out the gauge shows that they are now expired. I notice my smaller ones are good for 5 or 6 years. I have a couple of commercial rated larger extinguishers that are made to be re-filled that I have not had to touch for about a decade.

64 Spyder
04 Jag XJR
04 Cadillac SRX
05 Grand Cherokee 5.7

Good ole Minnesota

You should strongly consider purchasing the new solid chemical propellent type fire extinguishers such as Element.

They are smaller, lighter, longer lasting and maintenance-free!

Jay Leno had the co-owner of Element demonstrate the extinguisher on Jay's Youtube channel.

Click here for the video

Dean F. Gemberling
Columbus, Georgia
Heart of Georgia Corvair Club Webmaster
Springfest Webmaster

1963 Rampside w/305 V8 - Built by Ken Arnold in 1998
1965 Monza Coupe - Converting from Drag Race Car to Nice Street Car - 63 Buick 215 V8

arctic_man Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Jim Stukenborg Wrote:
> -------------------------------------------------------
> > No67el, you stated that you had the extinguisher for a long. Remember how long? I always wondered how old an extinguisher can be and still work.
>
> Not a direct answer to your question . . . . . . . . . . . .
>. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
>
>I have a couple of commercial rated larger extinguishers that are made to be re-filled that I have not had to touch for about a decade.


Even if the gauges reads full pressure, EVERY fire Extinguisher that uses any form of powered retardant, should be turned upside down, at least once a year, and vigorously hit with a rubber mallet several times.
Otherwise, the powder tends to settle, or clump and will not always come out properly, if at all!

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WA. state, 1 mile south of the Canadian border, I am not at the end of the world, but you can see it from here.

That's interesting,

When I went to use the extinguisher, it did not work at all for a moment, and I started to think I'd be standing there watching my car burn. I turned the extinguisher over, and shook it hard-- then it worked and the fire was out 20 seconds later.

no67el
Warren VT
'64 Spyder coupe

I learned this a few years ago, when I was asked to take the Fire Extinguisher Service Man around our facility, so he could inspect, certify, and service our Fire Extinguishers.
Every place that had an extinguisher, he would take it out of its little cupboard and check the pressure, and date on it. It is was still serviceable, he would then do the Mallet whacking, and write a new certification tag for it.
When I asked the reason for the whacking, he explained how the powder settles and clumps.
He then informed me I should be doing the same every year for my home extinguishers.

Hopes this info is helpful for others.

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WA. state, 1 mile south of the Canadian border, I am not at the end of the world, but you can see it from here.

I recently dropped my garage extinguisher and broke it. Happily, it didn't explode. I have been lazy about replacing it. Thank you for getting me out of that funk!

You have a couple of tasks. I suggest you just replace the engine compartment harness. At the plug in the left front of the compartment, thoroughly inspect the half of the plug and the terminals that are the compartment terminus of the main harness, as well as the voltage regulator. If any of the wires are melted, consider replacing that harness as well - This is a big job. If the wires are okay, but the plastic terminal holder has melted, think about just moving the wires over to a new end-terminal. Clean off the terminals first. For a blue sky, think about converting to an alternator at this point. I believe there is a harness option that will allow this.

Seth Emerson

Check my new Performance Corvair Web site: [www.perfvair.com]

Located in lovely San Jose, California

I suggest that you contact your auto policy insurance company and have them do an estimate. That is what you pay a premium for. The best way to repair the damage is to remove the engine, clean everything up and replace everything that is damaged. You will most likely need a new engine lid because it is next to impossible to get paint to stick to the metal after it has been exposed to a fire. I know, because I used to repair cars with fire damage.

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Woodstock CT... Located on the Connecticut / Massachusetts border, approximately 6 miles from the center of Southbridge MA. About 45 minutes from Hartford CT. 1 1/2 hours West of Boston MA. Woodstock CT to Los Angeles CA 2,937.1 miles. 1 Mile as the crow flies to Big Bird's nest.

Jim Stukenborg Wrote:
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> No67el, you stated that you had the extinguisher for a long. Remember how long? I always wondered how old an extinguisher can be and still work.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

With any dry powder fire extiguisher always get the ones with a gauge on them. That way you know that at least there is pressure at a glance. I have extinguishers that are 15 years old still showing good pressure and I will trust them.

Ken Hand
Handy Car Care
248 613 8586

Vairmech@aol.com

no67el Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> So my 64 Spyder decided to catch on fire...
>
> As near as I can tell, it was a leak from the fuel return line from the in-line filter, sprayed gas over hot intake, and ....boom.
>

Just curious whether your fuel distribution lines were in the stock configuration or if the system was non-stock.

By chance, I watched a Youtube video that went on about Corvairs not selling due to engine fires. I noticed that the engines they showed having burnt did not have mechanical fuel pumps present. I wondered what changes they had made to the stock system, especially rubber hoses and fuel pressure.

Glen in Ohio
1964 Monza Sedan Powerglide 110 hp
Low mileage survivor, stock as delivered
Records back to 1967 in Pequot Lakes, Minnesota
Original dealer Mike Turk's in East Liverpool, Ohio
Located in Cleveland, Ohio area

A few pictures of the damage might make it easier to offer suggestions of what might be needed. Without them we are just guessing.

RJ tools
Salem,Oregon

Thanks all-- will send some pics when I get home from a business trip Wednesday.

Fuel lines were stock configuration, and a standard mechanical pump.

Not sure the wires at the engine end of the body harness are salvageable-- the plug definitely isn't. I had figured on having to replace both the engine wiring harness and the body harness-- though I was sort of dreading the body harness job.

The fire seemed concentrated at that front driver's side corner of the engine bay-- thus my theory of a leak at the turbo fuel filter/return line. No obvious rupture in metal lines to the carb or from the filter to the pump, or the main line from the tank back to the pump.

I had already converted to an alternator a while back, so will need new wires for that--- hoping the alternator itself is OK.

Thanks again-- and given the news about Jay Leno's injuries from a car fire, I'm all the more grateful to have come through unscathed.

no67el
Warren VT
'64 Spyder coupe

Did you remove the battery ground cable from battery post before walking away from the car? I would suggest that small task if you didn't.

best wishes, Steve
Rear Engine Spec. Inc. Golden, Colo.

1962 spyder 3.0L turbo---1965 Crown V8
1967 monza 110/4---1968 monza 110/4
1971 amante gt 110/4
CORSA/RMC/PPCC/V8 Registry