I am currently in process of restoring a 1965 Corsa. I bought replacement strut rods/"hockey sticks" for both sides of the front suspension from Clark's. I also bought new nuts that according to Clark's are "self-locking". When I got the 2 strut rods, I wire brushed the paint off and added some anti-seize per Clark's directions. Once I tried threading the nuts on, they would not thread onto the brand new rods. There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the threads or the nuts themselves. Not sure if I'm missing something very obvious, but the nuts will not thread on and I was trying for over an hour.

Some people in other forums have had issue with these nuts and getting them to thread onto rods or loosening the original ones. I had no problems with the original ones, but these ones from Clark's are causing issues. I'm wondering if anyone else has experience with these nuts/rods from Clark's and if they have any suggestions.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/12/2022 09:10PM by jVairat2000.

Welcome to the CCF!

If you didn't have rusted/locked up threads on the old rods re-use them.

FYI..... you'll never get any self-locking nut in the right orientation to thread on since one end is too small....what makes it self lock!

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Know nothing about Clark's replacements.

As far as I can recall the stock nuts are not self locking.

The nuts are used to adjust caster and moving them back and forth would "defeat" the purpose of a self-locking nut - in my opinion.

If the nuts have a dot on each flat, That is the indication it is a lock nut. you might even see a slight inwards deflection of the threads.

Nut will thread down close to those dots, there the nut is slightly deformed. So now you have to wrench it onto the rod into the position you need it in.

Al
Georgia

I don't remember offhand what the thread size of those rods is but did buy a die years ago. If I was having the problem you describe I would be checking the rod and nut with a thread gauge to make sure they're the same.
I would never ever use a steel lock top nut on there because I believe they ruin the threads a little. I've used them on a one time only basis for header bolts with 2 bolt flat flanges.
With all the trouble there usually is getting the brake reaction rod nuts loose I can't imagine using something that makes it more difficult. Maybe a plastic top locking nut but then again I don't remember if they're a common "fine thread" size.

Jim Brandberg
Isanti, MN
CorvairRepair.com

Yeah I fought those Clarks lock nuts on my cleaned (and chased) original strut rods. Slathered them with anti seize and did not use power tools. Still a battle. Ended up using the original nuts in the forward position and only 2 of the new nuts near the rod end side of the bushing.

By the way, the threads are 11/16-16.

Lane66m Wrote:
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> If the nuts have a dot on each flat, That is the indication it is a lock nut. you might even see a slight inwards deflection of the threads.
>
> Nut will thread down close to those dots, there the nut is slightly deformed. So now you have to wrench it onto the rod into the position you need it in.

Yep, you are correct. Looked under the car and the nuts have the "divot".

Do not remember it being difficult, but it was a long time ago.

Could not find the rod / nut in the parts book?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/13/2022 01:30PM by RobertC.

It has come to my attention that locking nuts were on there originally so they don't come loose since that could be catastrophic.
I still haven't heard if the thread is just regular fine thread. GM had a way of using unusual threads sometimes so folks wouldn't put just anything in critical places.
The big problem we have is that they're often rusted from being in the same place for 50 years.

Jim Brandberg
Isanti, MN
CorvairRepair.com

P&A 30 grp 6.172 part# 3791855 thread is 11/16x18

best wishes, Steve
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They are environmentally locked after the first winter where I live

J.O.

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Bethlehem,Pa

Hi everyone,

Thanks for all your advice. I ended up bolting the strut rod to the lower control arm and used a breaker bar to generate the torque necessary. Lot of elbow grease but it threaded on without any issues.

Good deal. Sort of a Primer for me as I need to go after all suspension bushings in a 63 this week.
First of the good times will be getting the yokes off the axles but the powertrain is out for some elbow room.

Jim Brandberg
Isanti, MN
CorvairRepair.com

Deep Creep or Break Away are the two best penetrants to use. Once you have the nut moving, loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten, so the rust doesn't bind up the nut as it comes off.

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Aerokroil is my favorite along with the old Acetone/ATF in a pump gun. Even just soaking a joint with ATF alone over weeks does great.

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA

I had to heat these nuts up red to get them off. I chased the threads with a die. I thought for sure my local bolt store would have regular 11/16-18 nuts instead of the original extra wide ones but they do not. It looks like I have 3 originals and one regular here.
I see Clarks is out of these nuts, California Corvairs too. I see someone has original type on Ebay listed for Novas at $18 each plus $5 shipping. (gulp)

I wonder about using 2 jam nuts in place of one original nut (8 total). They're only listed as Grade 2 and I expect a jam nut is narrow. Looks like they were used for locking tie rod ends on early Fords.

Jim Brandberg
Isanti, MN
CorvairRepair.com






Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/28/2022 01:32PM by JimBrandberg.

You might try with Jeff at the Ranch. He does have new and used parts.

RJ tools
Salem,Oregon

Do a search for RP15259 for the lock nut

Advance auto is showing $8.29, shipping for four is 9.99

-Tom


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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/28/2022 02:42PM by toms73novass.

I got these from California Corvair. Just wire wheel cleaned them and voila. One of the inner nuts came right off, the other required heat and lots of effort. Chased that one with a die.





Gotta love our southwestern US parts!

Note, the outer nut is taller than the inner nut.

Ken Henry, Rochester, NY USA
1965 Corvair Corsa
140 hp, 4 speed

KenHenry Wrote:
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> Note, the outer nut is taller than the inner nut.


That is true. Also, the outer (rearward) nut is a locknut, while the inner is free running (when it's not rusted on lol).

Mike