I’m at a loss for what’s going on. My 63 Monza Convertible with AC has no power and pops and sputters about every 10-15 seconds. Doesn’t happen on the rotation of the engine. My mechanic has synchronized the new carbs, timed the engine, adjusted the valves. He believes the plugs need to be replaced again so he’s going to do a compression check when he replaces the plugs. He’s also going to camera the cylinders when he does so. He says he really believes it’s an intake valve on the drivers side.

Having explained this does anyone have any other thoughts? I neglected to say that God only knows how long the car set up. Any suggestions appreciated.

Allen Barnes
Near Fort Worth, Texas

1963 Air conditioned Contertible Currently under mechanical renovation.

WHY did he adjust the valves ? ? ?

-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-+-
WA. state, 1 mile south of the Canadian border, I am not at the end of the world, but you can see it from here.

Definitely do a compression check.

Best to do two - one cold, then another with the engine warm.

Is your mechanic working with the factory shop manual.
There is a full process for getting the carburtors installed, then the linkage adjusted, then finally a "balance test"

Just a guess.... sounds like a vacuum leak. Lean condition makes the popping thru the carbs.

---

Dan Davis ~ Pierce County, WA ~ CCF admin ~
CORSA +Corvairs NW + North Cascades Corvairs + Corvanatics
1966 Corsa Turbo coupe ~ ~ 1966 Corsa 140 Coupe ~ ~ 1965 Monza 140/4 Convertible Sierra Tan/Fawn ~ 1964 Monza Spyder Convertible ~ 1960 Monza Ermine White/Red PG ++ ~ 1965 Monza 140/4 CoupeEvening Orchid w/ ivory/black interior ~ 1962 Monza Wagon 102/4 ~ 1963 Rampside/Scamper ~ 1963 Red/Greenbrier ~ 1969 Ultra Van #468

What do you mean by “set”?

Did you clean the gas tank?

Think there is a tread in the FAQs that details what to do when an engine has set for a long time.

Should not adjust valves until you are sure that the lifters all pump up correctly.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/02/2022 07:51PM by RobertC.

The car wasn’t started for several years is what I meant by set.

Update: Cold compression test showed 145 on each cylinder. The car won’t start again. They are going through the ignition system again. It’s getting fire and gas, but just won’t freaking start.

Is the distributor cap "carbon tracked"?

The center pivot on the distributor plate (holds the points) can come (wear) "loose". If too "loose", the engine will not run.

There is also wear on the wire that goes into the distributor to the points - at where it enters the distributor.

Grasping at straws since you have not stated what all has been done. There are people here more knowledgeable than me.

Was the distributor taken out and put back in?

Not that familiar with EM carbs, but if the float spring(s) was not installed correctly, the engine will not start and the crankcase will become filled with gas. Assuming your mechanic rebuilt the carbs?

My mechanic finally got the car going and it has power! Not really sure what the details are, but there was a cascade of issues. They backed up and started over and got it fixed. Thanks for all your help. I should be on the road tomorrow afternoon!

Quote
Robert
Not that familiar with EM carbs, but if the float spring(s) was not installed correctly,

You prove your point of unfamiliarity, as 60 to 63 carburetors do not use the float spring.

Of course, the car could have the later carburetors (with the float springs) on it! Things get changed over 50 years.

You made good suggestions, Robert.

Lots of people do not know of the worn points plate. Causes erratic running. I was taught a way to fix those and make them tight again, pretty simple method. Another one of those videos I should have made.

Frank DuVal

Fredericksburg, VA