Hi fellas,

Trying to rebuild this 64 turbo hot side.

I cannot get this plate unstuck for the life of me. I have tried heating up the housing, tapping on the shaft of the turbine (from the other side), gear puller (which doesn't grip the housing well enough).

What is the trick? Also, is there anyone in the group that rebuilds turbos?

Thanks!

Troy Ward
Albuquerque, NM
'64 Spyder Coupe

Send to Steve Goodman to reduce possible damaging as well as to reduce headaches.
Rear Engine Specialists in Golden Colorado.

Steve is closer to you but I also do that work. No matter who does the work you still run the risk of braking something. There are trick to be done but probably not with tools you have.

I had someone from here send me one like that and I did get it apart. I also said that there was no guarantee of what could be salvaged.

Ken Hand
Handy Car Care
248 613 8586

Vairmech@aol.com

vairmech Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Steve is closer to you but I also do that work. No matter who does the work you still run the risk of braking something. There are trick to be done but probably not with tools you have.
>
> I had someone from here send me one like that and I did get it apart. I also said that there was no guarantee of what could be salvaged.


-------------------------------------
Steve sez: Agreed Ken and I had one a while back that defied me. Instead of breaking the wheel I just returned it to customer. I hate to say "If I break it it isn't my fault".

Heck it might be the one you were successful with. In fact I hope it was.

best wishes, Steve
Rear Engine Spec. Inc. Golden, Colo.

1962 spyder 3.0L turbo---1965 Crown V8
1967 monza 110/4---1968 monza 110/4
1971 amante gt 110/4
CORSA/RMC/PPCC/V8 Registry

Heat. Penetrating oil. Heat. Penetrating oil. Don’t be in a rush. Alternate for a few days. It will come apart. Be gentle.

Stig I heated after soaking for days. Then soaked more and placed in my press and heated with oxy acetylene torch. Kept putting pressure on center of wheel. I finally couldn't stand pushing harder. Choices were quit or if I broke the wheel then email the customer with pic of damaged blades and say "tough luck I did my best". I chose to quit.

best wishes, Steve
Rear Engine Spec. Inc. Golden, Colo.

1962 spyder 3.0L turbo---1965 Crown V8
1967 monza 110/4---1968 monza 110/4
1971 amante gt 110/4
CORSA/RMC/PPCC/V8 Registry

Steve not to ever question your work. If you give up I would have far sooner. Just trying to encourage Troy.

Fellas,

Thanks for the experience and encouragement. I don't think I have the right tools to give this a proper go. Maybe I would be better off finding one already disassembled.

Troy

You are welcome to bring that one by and I can give it a go, no guarantees though! Since I’m local. I can’t hold a candle to Steve or Ken but I have built a number for myself and club members here in town.

Alright! Cool Geoff! Thanks!

If it is any consolation must 'stuck' heat shields come loose from exh housing with gentle coaxing. Good luck with it Geoff.

best wishes, Steve
Rear Engine Spec. Inc. Golden, Colo.

1962 spyder 3.0L turbo---1965 Crown V8
1967 monza 110/4---1968 monza 110/4
1971 amante gt 110/4
CORSA/RMC/PPCC/V8 Registry

Don't force it, get a bigger hammer

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Woodstock CT... Located on the Connecticut / Massachusetts border, approximately 6 miles from the center of Southbridge MA. About 45 minutes from Hartford CT. 1 1/2 hours West of Boston MA. Woodstock CT to Los Angeles CA 2,937.1 miles. 1 Mile as the crow flies to Big Bird's nest.

I ended up using my press and heat after cleaning the joint with my bead blaster. It sill took a LOT of pressure to get the plate to come loose.

Ken Hand
Handy Car Care
248 613 8586

Vairmech@aol.com

A couple things to try: Aero Kroil - give it several sprays and soak.

Also have heard that soaking in diesel fuel loosens up the carbon.

Mike

flat_six Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> A couple things to try: Aero Kroil - give it several sprays and soak.
>
> Also have heard that soaking in diesel fuel loosens up the carbon.
>
> Mike


Oven cleaner also loosens up carbon.


Eric P.
DeWitt, iA

flat_six Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> A couple things to try: Aero Kroil - give it several sprays and soak.
>
> Also have heard that soaking in diesel fuel loosens up the carbon.
>
> Mike


Oven cleaner also loosens up carbon.


Eric P.
DeWitt, iA

I had one stuck pretty bad, lots of solvent got it, BUT. If there is a lot of rust where it seats and you clean the shield may no longer seat properly. Clarks has a shim to correct that problem.



[ssl.corvair.com]

J.O.

65 Corsa Turbo Vert
79 Honda XL 500S
69 Honda CL 160 D
2010 BMW F 650 GS
2003 Bounder 36D
2013 KIA Optima SX turbo-AKA ZIPPY (wife,s car)
69 Newport Holiday Sailboat
Baja 150 dune buggy cart
Coleman HS 500 UTV
2016 KIA Sorento SXL Turbo

Bethlehem,Pa

J.O. What kind of solvent did you use

Kroil, it seems to eat both carbon and rust.

J.O.

65 Corsa Turbo Vert
79 Honda XL 500S
69 Honda CL 160 D
2010 BMW F 650 GS
2003 Bounder 36D
2013 KIA Optima SX turbo-AKA ZIPPY (wife,s car)
69 Newport Holiday Sailboat
Baja 150 dune buggy cart
Coleman HS 500 UTV
2016 KIA Sorento SXL Turbo

Bethlehem,Pa

I had a '39 Packard flathead 6 cyl with a few stuck valves in the block. After trying a myriad of methods, I ran into an old timer and He mentioned to try a mix of Marvel Mystery oil and acetone.
I sealed the intake and exhaust holes and filled them up with the mixture. Came back next day and was almost empty as the acetone had evaporated. Just went back every night for 4 days and they all came lose after tapping them back and forth like I had previously done!