Occasionally I had one carburetor (140HP) with a float that would stick after it sat awhile and flood the carburetor on start up. Once the engine started the problem went away.

Recently I replaced the old black accelerator cups with the new blue Viton cups. I rechecked the float adjustment and all were fine, except one float dropped with little spring resistance. All the other carburetors had floats that bounced a little in the dropped position, or almost weightless against the spring.

I adjusted the one carburetor float spring to match the others and so far the flooding problem on start up is gone.

I know folks have said the Clark's repo float spring tension is sometimes to great, but the original springs can also have too little tension.

Something to add to the "rebuild" list.

Anyone else have this issue - comments?

Yes. Adjusting the spring for a "weightless" float should be part of the rebuild.

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 114 Corvairs and counting...

I've been mostly bending the arm on the spring that contacts the float. There's about a 1/8" rise that I hold with a needle nose and then bend the arm. Sometimes after bending the float swivel operation is not as free so I go back somewhat and then bend the leg that rests against the brass seat which makes the float a little trickier to install. What part of the spring are you guys bending?

Jim Brandberg
Isanti, MN
CorvairRepair.com

Check post here.. "Dribble at idle".

Corventure Dave

A coil spring is a torsion rod in a spiral shape. Just me, but to minimize stressing or fracturing I bend the ENTIRE spring, not just a small length of it.

Just rotate the two arms at either end spring around it's axis to change tension.

"Just rotate the two arms at either end spring around it's axis to change tension."
That's how I do it also.

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 114 Corvairs and counting...

Sounds good. Maybe next time I'll put it on the pin and twirl the ends against each other. Thanks.

Jim Brandberg
Isanti, MN
CorvairRepair.com