If you have equal drag for 360 degrees...adjusted too tight.

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
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Joel, that makes sense. I am thinking my brake issues are related to shoe contact with the drums and the need for them to wear in. I am not sure how well they should work since this is my first late model. Back in the when I drove a 64 for a few years there were no brake concerns. I don't have any pulling or anything like that. The car has very few miles since the brake work so, for now, I will put more miles on and see if they improve. Thanks for all the suggestions and help guys. Brice

Brice

66 Corsa Turbo Convertible

Bozeman, Montana

I turn brake drums because I wont them to be round. I have my own lathe so that makes it easy for me. You can't tell by looking if the drum is round or out of round. If the drum is out of round the shoes and brake hardware is going to be jumping around all over the backing plate. Maybe this is why some backing plates have a lot of wear on them. I cut as little as possible also because there is no reason to take anymore. A brake drum is hard to get centered on the lathe so years ago I took an extra 4 bolt and 5 bolt hub, removed the studs and then made a light truing cut on them. I gently put the studs back in and now I have a centered mounting point for the drums. I also took a 4 and 5 bolt wheel and cut the centers out of them. I use these as torque plates so that the drums are held on like they are on the car. If you look in the shop manuals about drums I believe it is the '61 that says when they are .010" oversized that you are to turn them to .060" and use oversized shoes. In '65 I think that they said if it was .020" oversized then you were to turn them to the .060".

RJ tools
Salem,Oregon

Now the search for "overized shoes"???? LOL

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
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I have a parts book dated I believe Oct. '64 for the '65 model year. So I looked up brake shoes and the only oversized shoes listed were for a late model front. Another example of the parts book and the shop manual not on the same page.

RJ tools
Salem,Oregon

I have been fighting a brake problem for more than a year now. Swapped out everything. I installed NEW front drums AC DELCO profession series from Rock Auto. They looked like crap castings when I got them. They had large weights spot welded to them. I installed them anyway. They were very true on both sides, only al light tight spot. They were never even close to being overheated. Now several months later I got a shake in the steering wheel when braking. Both sides now have extreme tight spots where you can barely turn them. I backed them off a bunch, you can now rotate them easily past the tight spot, but its still there. Definitely warped. I didn't test drive due to weather, but it looks like my 50 year old drums will be going back on.

Anyone have a source or brand you can trust to be good.

J.O.

65 Corsa Turbo Vert
79 Honda XL 500S
69 Honda CL 160 D
2010 BMW F 650 GS
2003 Bounder 36D
2013 KIA Optima SX turbo-AKA ZIPPY (wife,s car)
69 Newport Holiday Sailboat
Baja 150 dune buggy cart
Coleman HS 500 UTV
2016 KIA Sorento SXL Turbo

Bethlehem,Pa

My wagon had crazy high pedal pressure for a good 1000 miles after I replaced the shoes and I even arced them to fit the drums. (Advanced Auto cheap shoes) It is ok now but not great. I think the new shoes are poor. I have a '66 that I sure wish I knew what brand shoes it has on it because it feels like power brakes.

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 141 Corvairs and counting...




Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/06/2020 10:46AM by joelsplace.

Yes and the contact area is good. I think it is crappy material.
LM brakes are much better.

Joel
Northlake, TX
5 Ultravans, 141 Corvairs and counting...