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62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: autocomman ()
Date: August 09, 2020 06:21PM

So most of you saw the first thread I started on the 62 rampside I picked up. This will be the main thread for all the work. Its a no options truck. No heater, 1 speed wiper, 1 visor, 3 speed manual trans, bench seat, thats it. Pretty cool actually, I dig the crazy stripped down nature of this beast. Its rusty in all the right places. Patina is fantastic. This will be a truck someone will drive just how it is, and not have to worry about it.

This is the first thread
[corvaircenter.com]

So this thread will be the motor refresh, suspension refresh and overall getting it back together and on the road. Not gonna deal with any rust, it seems pretty solid underneath, has the usual holes in the side panels and doors. I do have a new door for the drivers side as the sheet metal the hinge holds on to has pretty much gone poof. The bed is solid, a few pin holes but thats it. The cab floor is in great shape as well as is pretty much most of the cab sheet metal.

Last registered in 84? I figure in the 22 years it was on the road it was only driven the 55k thats on the clock. Air cleaners were missing, and the motor was locked up. Tried getting it loose, wasnt gonna happen. On the tear down found rust in a few cylinders, only 1 was really bad enough to be an issue. Bearings looked ok, crank journals measure out perfectly. Cam looks good as does the cam gear. So, Im not gonna be splitting the case, its getting .060 over pistons and cylinders and fresh rod bearings. Ill check the bearings clearance on assembly, but as far as the short block goes that should be fine. Everything else in there should have some good life left in it.

The heads were tired. Typical valve guide wear. I actually scored a set of NOS heads, same part number ready to go. I picked em up from a guy who got em for a project and never used em, sat around for 25 years. He got em from a guy who got em from a dude who bought em new from GM. Gonna put new valve seals on em and slap em on. I mean, they are new haha.

Tin is getting powder coated, gonna grease up the fan bearings. Im in California so the vent doors in the lower tin will be wired open as the bellows are both no good. Carbs will be gone through, gonna leave the generator as well.

The speedo was a bit sticky, and while trying to disssassemble it I broke the needle shaft. Really bummed bout that. So I swapped in a car speedo and adjusted the milage to match the original. Rebuilt ignition switch, new tumbler. All cleaned up, all new bulbs in the cluster. Headlights were all missing, so they have been replaced, standard halogen 4" sealed beams. Old lenses too cause you cant have parts too shiny on a rusty truck winking smiley Still working on making the turn signals work properly. THe switch had been relocated to teh column bracket so you could work it manually. The turn signal cam has been drilled out and a 5/16 bolt stuck in the spot for the turn signal lever. So Ill probably take that bolt out, drill and tap it and stick the level back in using the old bolt as an adaptor. I got everything back in place, cable was in good shape, but I was having a hard time making it all work. THe W clip I replaced cause it was missing, but then i realized the plastic roller was gone. So I got one of those to put in.

Suspension is tired as well. Got all new delco bushings and ball joints to put in, as well as a set of shocks. Got the good ball joints too, not the cheep ones. Brakes are getting new springs, shoes, drums and a new master cylinder. Leaving the single line setup for now. Fuel tank...thank god for ethanol free fuel. The gas from the 80s was brown, but left the tank rust free. Nice and clean inside. Second vehicle Ive brought back to life from the 80s with old gas that didnt have a ruined tank. Sender was in great shape too, and works fine so I left that as well. Just need to grab some new rubber line and shift the tank back in. Then I gotta swap the not matching rims and slap some new rubber on.

That it. It will pretty much be gone through mechacnically but old lookin otherwise. A derelict. i love it. Ill prolyl cruise it for a few months and move it along. Always wanted a corvair, it was right price (never a good time haha) but Ill have saved one, and im happy bout that. So all pics and updated will be in this thread.

Quick question. The gasket kit I got has copper and steel cylinder gaskets. I cant for the life of me remember which is the head and block side. Thoughts??

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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: August 09, 2020 07:09PM

Heads gaskets areusually steel and of a folded constuction. Cylinder base gaskets are skinny and not folded.


You've got a plan!

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
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..............................110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: Timothy Shortle ()
Date: August 10, 2020 07:28AM

1960 head gaskets were copper from GM. 61-69 were steel but copper became available on the aftermarket (Clark's).
Copper head gaskets could be reused according to Chevrolet after annealing(?).

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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: corventure Dave ()
Date: August 10, 2020 08:09AM

Copper head and Cyl. base gaskets have been available for quite while.
You should find that the base gaskets are quite a bit thinner than the head gaskets, however I have seen special thicker base gaskets used in air conditioned applications.
If there is a question, the gaskets thickness can be checked with a micrometer.

Corventure Dave

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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: autocomman ()
Date: August 10, 2020 05:28PM

The steel gasket has a fold in it, the copper gaskets are flat

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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: JimBrandberg ()
Date: August 11, 2020 07:04AM

I don't think cylinder base gaskets and head gaskets will interchange even if you try.
It sounds like you have thin steel cylinder base gaskets and thicker copper head gaskets.

Early 3 speeds are somewhat quaint with the non-synchro 1st gear and all but a 4 speed is so much more enjoyable.

I like that you will have a Rampside that you can still haul stuff with. 16' lumber rides okay in the 9' box.

Jim Brandberg
Isanti, MN
CorvairRepair.com



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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: Discgolferman ()
Date: August 11, 2020 07:56PM

Right on.. I have a 62 3 speed too....

Super fun to drive 80 hp and just putt around town.

Cant help but smile when I drive it, as i bounce around town.

64 spyder vert 4 speed *not running*
64 spyder coupe 4 speed *not running*
63 500 PG*running not moving*
62 Rampside 3 speed*this baby cruises*

Dave

Modesto

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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: autocomman ()
Date: August 11, 2020 08:07PM

Yeah it was pretty obvious when i finally looked at the gaskets, they can only go on one way. Thin steel on the bottom, thicker copper on the top.

Good to make some progress on this finally. I didint know the cylinders only went on one way. I figured I needed extra practice with the crappy ring compressor. Oiy. Finally got the barrels loaded up and put it all together. I did check the bearing clearance before hand. .0015 to .002 on all of em. Right on the money. I was dreading torquing the rod caps but honestly that was pretty damn easy. Had a bad taste in my mouth from trying to take it apart with stuck pistons before.

And pulled one valve spring on the NOS heads to swap out the valve seal. The plan is to change them all cause well, they are at least 58 years old. Also wanted to be sure evrything was kosher, and well the valve was stuck. Oiy...after thinkin for a min, hitting the stem with some brake clean it slid right out. 58 year old assembly grease. So Ill have to pull all the valves and clean the old grease off and add a little fresh assembly lube. Good news is they do look NOS. So I got what I payed for.

And finally need to chase the threads on all the studs, clean all the hardware, the front cover and the bell housing, push rod tubes, push rods etc. Not having access to a solvent tank makes this a huge PITA. Once the motor is closed up ill do a little more cleaning on the block. So far so good. Hope to hear it run in 2-3 weeks.










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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: autocomman ()
Date: August 11, 2020 08:35PM

Here are some questions....

Where is the factory groud strap locaion from the battery? Or was the battery grounded to the body somewhere and a seperate strap from the motor to the body?

Also proper routing of the Pos cable. So I know how it was from the factory

The engine and trans mounts. These are just rubber bushings, nothing special. Is there a generic source other than the corvair parts places? I hate having to spend potentially $100 + on $20 woth of rubber donuts.

I need a drivers door outside handle too, so if ayone has one lying around, or if you know if there is an interchange betwen some other chevy truck then I can find one. I dont want a new one, too shiny, just one thats servicable, in good enough shape to work properly and so I can rekey it.

I also need a drivers visor if anyone has anything lying around.

Mark

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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: August 11, 2020 08:49PM

NEG / Ground strap is braided...to chassis and then engine [ gen mount]

MODERATOR
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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: Lane66m ()
Date: August 12, 2020 03:04AM

Here is a photo of my Greenbrier engine compartment.

Battery cable is supposed to be routed in same grommet with fuel line in front shroud. I added a grommet in body panel above it to run starter solenoid harness and battery cable through. Cleaner look and only requires cable and harness to be removed from starter to drop engine. No messing with grommet pulling cable out to engine down.

You can see my black battery ground cable is attached to the shroud bolt ahead of the alternator.

Both not stock but cleans up the look of the compartme t.

Al
Georgia



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/12/2020 03:08AM by Lane66m.

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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: autocomman ()
Date: August 14, 2020 09:01PM

Heads on! Well, not bolted down yet. Spent most of the day cleaning the pushrod tubes, and I still need to order a bottle brush to get the grime outa the inside. Also had to clean the cylinder baffles as my powedercoader hasnt gotten to the tin yet. Bummer cause I hate cleaning this stuff. Came out ok, youll never see em again anyway heh.

From what I gather NOS heads did not have valves or springs in em. SOmeone when they put these together put seals on all the valves. So in addition to removing all the valves to clean the 60 year old assembly grease off, I removed all the seals and put em back only on the intakes. Easy peasy.

Stuff on order, generator rebuild kit and what not. Hoping next week Ill have the heads torqued on and the front cover and bell houising back on. Then I can at least fill it and prime the oil system. Also gonna try and get the carbs done next week too. I might be a bit ambitios. Depending on the progress of my powdercoating guy, I may throw the carbs on before the tin to fire it up for just a min...who knows. Im gettin ahead of myself already.

And yes, the baffles are painted in high temp low gloss black








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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: autocomman ()
Date: August 15, 2020 10:21PM

Ok, now after reading I need to know about the piston ring direction. I have done engines before, and rings, spaced everrything fine, but with a flat engine I need to have them in a certain direction? Looking at the manual the oil control ring needs to be at the top, and hte compression rings 45 degrees from the top left an right respectivly. That sounds right? If do I need to yank the pistons and fix that...And if thats the case, the oil ring being straihgt up, the thin rings around the oil control ring also go 45 degrees from the main oil control ring...that doesnt sound right to me...or is it the thin rings around the oil control rins go inline with the piston pin...

And finally i read somewhere to use blut locktite on the rod nuts? Any thoughts on this??

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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: August 15, 2020 10:33PM

Normally not a problem

google sez; is clear that the piston rings in any engine lead a mysterious life where, depending on the load and speed conditions that apply, they might rotate continually, oscillate between certain positions or remain stationary.

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
..............................110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: autocomman ()
Date: August 16, 2020 10:41AM

I dunno why ring position on a flat engine would matter...

WHat about the loctite on the rod nuts? Havent read that in any manual, didnt know if it was a corvair just incase trick

And the flywheel bolts. Rtv? Or the fancy loctite thread locker/sealer? PTFE?

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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: corventure Dave ()
Date: August 17, 2020 08:41AM

My opinion...
RTV should only be considered for oil pans. And then only a small bead should be used.

Standard gasket sealer on flywheel bolts.

Loctite on rod bolts. Perhaps... on a racing engine that will get stressed.

Have you pre torqued the head stud's"? It's always a bummer to have one stud pull out of the case on final assembly. Much easier to repair a pulled stud with the engine apart.

Corventure Dave

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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: autocomman ()
Date: August 17, 2020 11:33AM

Only one stud came out on disassembly, none of the others moved...and it went back in with some tension, threads looked perfect. I'm gonna take my chances and if it's an issue then I'll deal with it, but I don't think I'll have any issues. This isn't a high mileage motor.

And standard gasket sealer. Like "the right stuff"? That's my go-to gasket sealer. There are about 30 gasket sealers that are liquid adhesive, rtv or etc/silicone like, thread sealers for flywheel bolts specifically. My 850 Volvo used a particular loctite thread locker/sealer on the flexplate bolts.

The right stuff is the best gasket makes I've used, and have used it on bolts before, so that's prolly what I will do.

I am curious. The head studs it looks like you can just keep threading them into the block. We're they an Interferance fit from the factory? Did they have a sealer on them?

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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: MattNall ()
Date: August 17, 2020 11:48AM

Correct!! Actuall ALL are interference fit!

MODERATOR
Sea Mountain, between Charleston Harbor and Coos Bay! SW Oregon Coast
Click HERE for My Website...Click HERE for My TechPages!
..............................110-PG.................................................Webered-Turbo

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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: autocomman ()
Date: August 17, 2020 01:32PM

Oil...so many oil discussions. What's the consensus here in this forum. I use a 20/50 classic car oil in my bugeye sprite with no issues. Can't remember what brand. I would assume 20/50 should be fine for this motor, yes?

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Re: 62 rampside rejuvenation!
Posted by: corventure Dave ()
Date: August 17, 2020 01:50PM

The head studs should not protrude into the crankcase.
I remember many years ago, my Father had an issue with his rebuild. He could not turn the engine over past about 358 degrees. It would stop either way.
What we found is that one of the cyl head studs had turned in just a couple turns past flush with the inside of the crankcase. One rod bolt contacted it.
I'm glad the engine was still on the bench and the top cover not yet installed!

I change the oil in my Greenbrier about every 2500 miles. I run straight 30wt.
It's a 95hp with Powerglide.
This is the cylinder head after about 126,000 miles. Yes I was amazed! I change the oil before it starts to burn, creating the black residue.

Corventure Davee



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/17/2020 01:50PM by corventure Dave.

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